thinking about a muzzle brake

kmaysob

New member
i really dont have an idea of where to start. ive done some searching here and on google. ive got a 700 sps in .308 with the varmint (heavy barrel). what size would i need to start looking for, i know ill need to have the barrel threaded, anyone have a guess of what i can expect to pay to have it threaded?
 
Muzzle brakes can be very effective in reducing felt recoil, but you never get something for nothing.

Muzzle brakes (regardless of claims) really raise the decible level of the rifle's report. While this is often directed to the sides of the shooter, it still is loud and if fired under a covered range can be very disturbing to adjacent shooters.

I've used them on 50 calibre rifles (M-107 and some of the previous 50 cal rifles) and also on the 338 Lapua. They really hurt the spotter's ears and for military shooters, a concern is that they also raise the dust signature on firing if done in very arid locals.

They can not be used at NRA high power matches due to their effect on adjacent shooting positions.

That said, it is pretty neat to watch the trace (sonic disturbance of the atmosphere) of your bullet all the way to the target without loosing sight of it in the scope although the Barret recoils too much for that.

Cost? I don't know. A gunsmith might have to remove the barrel to properly turn it and thread it on a lathe. Might up the cost a bit.
 
put a muzzle on a .308? really?

What do you weigh under 100lbs? The .308 win is a soft push. a 12ga shotgun has a higher felt recoil than a .308. Get a better recoil pad, cheaper and easier on the ear drums.
 
I just look one of our local gunsmith and he charges $200 they make different style if shooting prone so it's not one size or style fit all.

I've had couple on some LR varmint rifles nice to see the hit or miss!
 
If you need a muzzle brake on a .308 then you need to go back to a .22LR or pellet gun. Those things are worthless and detrimental unless you are shooting something with a high recoil signature and doing it a lot.
 
Any change in zero? I've noted a lower POI when puting our suppressors on. I think the weight hanging on the barrel is the reason, but they act differently than a brake, so I'm interested if you noted a similar change in the zero before and after your installation of your muzzle brake.
 
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maybe im on a mission to make a 308 shoot like a .22:D

i have a pacmayre f99 tripple magnum recoil pad on order. that thing is 1.5'' thick. ill see how it performs with that, but others have posted the exact reason why im thinking about one. it would be nice to see my shot hit.

ive seen plenty of guys at the range with a brake on their 22-250, 223, 308, ect.
 
What do you weigh under 100lbs? The .308 win is a soft push. a 12ga shotgun has a higher felt recoil than a .308. Get a better recoil pad, cheaper and easier on the ear drums.

If you need a muzzle brake on a .308 then you need to go back to a .22LR or pellet gun. Those things are worthless and detrimental unless you are shooting something with a high recoil signature and doing it a lot.

If you need a muzzle brake on a .308 then you need to go back to a .22LR or pellet gun.

^^What he said.^^

Some people are just close minded. I weigh 250 and have been shooting for 40 years. I'm not very recoil sensitive, but I'm about to put a Ross brake on a 12 lb. Rem 700 VLS in 6mm Rem. shooting 55 grn. Noslers. Why? Because it generates just enough recoil to take the target out of the scope at extended ranges and high scope magnification settings. I like to see those prairie rats explode in the scope.

There are other reasons to reduce recoil besides compfort. Plugs under muffs take care of the increased volume.
 
You can have the barrel braked without threading it. Most hunting rifle brakes go this route. Magnaport is an example. It's generally much cheaper if you don't have a separate need to have it threaded, and if you intend to use the brake all of the time.

A few reasons to thread it would be to add a suppressor or muzzle tuner in the future, or to add a brake built as a suppressor adapter, such as the Brakeout.

If you thread it, go 5/8-24, which is basically the standard for the above.
Look around locally for threading. Expect to pay $150 or more+ shipping if you send it out. That's before the actual brake cost gets added.
Try someone like Adco Firearms in OH if you send it out.

I'll add that I detest muzzle brakes. I had a braked BOSS on a 7mmRem Mag, and decided I would rather have the recoil than the massive increase in blast, which makes me flinch like crazy. I added a non-ported BOSS to it instead.
 
+1 on installing a brake.

I can't believe so many people are against it. Its all advantages the way I see it. If you are having trouble with its noise then get some real working earmuffs or don't go to the range where people shoot rifles. Maybe sign yourself up for some pellet gun competitions, I hear those are noise free! As far as dust being thrown, I have only had that be a problem once, and I live in arizona! I still consider that be more my fault that dust is being thrown up and not the rifles, the barrel was just too close to the ground for the conditions and thats why my bipod legs are adjustable.
 
Here we go again...
"get a better recoil pad"...

Why don't these guys "get" that a brake allows you to stay on target for follow-up shots, and spot your own hits...

Go for it.
 
I have a good friend that has a seperated right shoulder and the recoil of a 308 pains him to the point he doesn't shoot one. A muzzle brake is the ideal RX for him.

Darn! The old Magnaport option. I totally forgot about that. Back in my LE days, one of the officers had his Model 58 41 Magnum revolver ported in this manner. It was fun to watch him at night shoots and qualifications. There was a pretty large "V" of flame from his pistol when he fired the duty loads and of course you had to wear plugs and muffs when he was on the line.
 
I have had muzzle breaks on 3 different rifles and 2 pistols and fired several others.

I won't have another with one.

They do increase the noise as well redirecting the blast wave.

If you are near any surface that is even minutely reflective. You will get hit with the blast wave. Depending on the caliber and length of the barrel it can be like someone puffing air in your face up to enough to make your eyes tear and your nose run.

I would personally rather work on my stance/recoil control than deal with the noise/blast of a muzzlebrake.

Especially if this is a gun that you are ever planning on hunting with. Unless you hunt in muffs/earplugs.:confused:

Here is an example.

Last winter, my brother and a friend and I were shooting rifles in the field down below the house. I was shooting a Colt 6920 and he was shooting a SCAR-L. I fired the Colt first and my brother/friend were standing next to slightly ahead of me spotting for me. Then we switched to the SCAR-L. I fired the 1st shot, before I could get off the next 4 shots both my brother and friend got behind me standing in the woods because the muzzle blast was so bad. This was with the factory PWS brake. Each time the Colt came out, everyone stood pretty much even with the shooter. When the SCAR was up, we stood in the woods.

My brother took the SCAR out that following weekend and swapped to an AAC Blackout.:D
 
If you need a muzzle brake on a .308 then you need to go back to a .22LR or pellet gun. Those things are worthless and detrimental unless you are shooting something with a high recoil signature and doing it a lot.

That is by far one of the most ignorant statements i've come across in a long time.

There are clear advantages to shooting a .308 with a brake, if you shoot long range or competition for instance where you fire 100-200rds a match recoil wears on a person that is fact. It will reduce physical wear, help spot shots, and ultimately aid in correction for wind, due to retained sight picture of your shot.

I really don't understand this mindset that if you brake certain calibers that your a wimp or some stupid **** like that. What if your concern is marksmanship? Where in his statement does he imply that the .308's recoil bothers him? And no neither of my .308s are braked but i've considered it.

As to where to look, i like SF 7.62 brake alot. Aesthetically pleasing and reduces recoil very well. Also QD compatible with their suppressors

Here's a picture of the GAP gladius as seen with the surefire.

Gladius7.jpg


Here's the GAP Titan muzzle brake on a remington varmint contour such as yours. It's integrated brake that could be used as a thread protector or unless you want it to just remain on the barrel.
394953392.jpg
 
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