The results of sighting in my Mosin Today.

It just gets boring. Shooting a .22 for an hour and then doing the same thing next week or the day after next. Sorry for saying that. I have a recoil pad on my Mosin that does an awesome job minimalizing recoil. Even with 180 grain soft points I could barely feel the recoil.

Also, if I were going to get another rifle (I don't want to have some scoped hunting rifle like my dad shoots) what could I get? I just don't really like shooting with scopes. It just feels too easy to be honest. With my scoped10/22 I was hitting every shot on paper at 25 yards and 17/20 in the black part of the target, a few flyers. Your thoughts are appreciated, and sorry if I seem ignorant or stupid at times, there are just certain things I do and don't like.
 
are the bullet holes the same shape as the dots covering them up? if so your rifle is keyholing and likely needs to be counterbored. what happens is that your bullets start tumbling as soon as they leave the barrel and all pretense of accuracy or stability is lost.

you look look like you have a good level of accuracy, just no precision. out of curiosity what range was this and is that a full sized B27 target or is it a reduced sized target? also, how stable was your shooting platform? were you shooting freehand, off a bench? prone? sandbags?

I agree with 22 being boring, I personally can't build my marksmanship skills with them, they always feel like shooting toys. I prefer intermediate cartridges like 7.62x39, 223, or pistol calibers like 9mm or 45ACP. they still have recoil and simulate shooting a real rifle but also are relatively affordable.
 
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No, bullets were stable and weren't tumbling.

This was at 100 yards with 3 sandbags in front and a rabbit ear bag in the rear. This is the official target used by my state law enforcement and for concealed carry courses.
 
Regardless of what your state uses for whatever they use it for, a silhouette is NOT the way to zero a rifle.

You have something of a haphazard approach to figuring out where your rifle shoots, how, and why. Not to mention trying to learn to shoot it well.

Eliminate variables, don't add them.

Use ONE LOAD, surplus from one spam can is fine, starting out.
Quit dinking with several loads.

Quit varying your target distance.
Quit varying your targets.

Do what I told you.
50 yards, bulls, work on consistency in basics.

HAVE ANOTHER SHOOTER TRY YOUR RIFLE, off a good rest, at that 50 yards. A shooter WITH EXPERIENCE, who knows how to shoot.
If the groups wander all over for him, the problem may be your gun.

If so, ditch the cork & re-try.
It may actually shoot better without it.

When you try a new gun, or learn to shoot one, you stay as consistent as you can & trouble-shoot it by changing one variable at a time.

You're all over the place, with very little chance of figuring out what's going on.

Standardize your distance, learn 50 yards before you try 100.
Standardize your target, use a smaller aiming point, NO MORE SILHOUETTES!
Standardize your ammunition, quit jumping around with different loads right now.
Standardize your sight picture, black dot on top of front sight.
Standardize your rest, same bags, rifle rest, whatever- do it the same each time you shoot for right now.
Shoot off a bench.


It doesn't matter at this point where on the paper your holes are (forget about coyote hunting anytime soon, you're not ready), as long as they're consistently going in the same place.
Once you achieve the ability to do that, THEN you can worry about sight options and more precise zeroing.

You picked the wrong rifle to learn with, you're getting ahead of yourself, you're going about the process wrong, and you're getting impatient.

As I told you before- I test guns for a living, which involves accuracy testing.
I've taught people how to shoot.
Ricocheting all over the map like you've been doing (and I mean you, not the ammo) is NOT the way to learn either shooting in general, or your Mosin in particular.

Establish a baseline.
One target, one load, one distance.
Do the best you can, have an experienced shooter do the same.
Compare results.

The Mosin CAN be quite accurate.
I told you before I have a mildly sporterized one that's gone under an inch at 100 yards with iron sights & surplus ammunition.

I tested it using the same standardized test protocols I always use with new (or new to me) rifles.
I have a standard process, I have a baseline.
If a rifle shoots way bad, I know it's not me.

When working with one rifle, you change variables one at a time as part of your troubleshooting, especially if you're new to shooting. You don't throw different loads, different targets, different ranges, different rests, different positions, and so on into the mix & expect to be able to get quantifiable data back out.

Especially if you're not experienced enough yet to know if it's YOU, or the gun, that's shooting wild.
Denis
 
*shakes head*

ok lets begin with the corking thing is sometimes a ...gimk or trendy

id prefer my boyds stock variation on irons as it helps stabilize the system (just starts setting lower in the stock till its bedded)

another concept is if you getting to much barrel sway. that can sometimes be corrected with the addition of a counter correct muzzle break design (meaning venting ports fire gas to stabilize the rifles firing )

another simple FIX , is to paint the front iron sites tip a more distinguishable color. after i did that my groups got better (black target and black sites dont mix lol)


if you need some research id urge you to view some mosin accusing threads, or check my own add on part(no mod ) project, later i did do a permanent mod, but the first half was dedicated to my iron site shooting at 100-300 yards (past that i lost my targets, so need a scope for my competition shooting)

your mosin should shoot at least center mass at that range
(initial shooting on stock mosin before modification, with irons at 100)
387357_2107562661448_1792975549_n.jpg

(no perma mod mosin, but forgive the grip,bipod ive since got a caldwell )
936840_4654970865061_359114039_n.jpg
 
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a lot of good advice here but there is a lot of conflicting advice over two completely different issues neither of which can be solved in tandem. either fix the rifle or fix the shooter but look at the symptoms before you offer advice.

1. it's not hard to tell that a new stock is not going to fix groups of that size.
2. the shots got closer to target after the barrel warmed, not something that would happen if the stock was improperly cork bedded. if it was the cork bedding, the shots would string in one direction, moving farther and farther in a single direction as the barrel heated, this is obviously not the case. the shots did however get worse after a few well placed hits. this says to me that the shooter became fatigued/impatient, it happens to the best of us, our groups open up over the course of the day even if we give ample time to cool the barrel, it's a shooter problem, not a rifle problem.
3. there is a lot of advice here, saying "do what I tell you" regardless of what your intentions just goes to discredit your advice and makes you sound overbearing.

that said. I almost completely agree with Dpris. those B27 targets are used by law enforcement for qualifications, not sight-ins. they use them for timed drills to ensure that officers are capable of operating handguns under stress and in a timely fashion, they aren't used to sight in rifles. if that's all a person had to work with you could use one for that purpose but you would have to know the exact dimensions of the target, exactly where bullseye is, and how to adjust your sights. a bullseye is much easier and more practical. I agree that 100 yards is way too much. those B27 targets are pretty close to anatomically correct. if you are missing the target completely 25% of the time, you do not have the skills to be shooting at that range to begin with, move it closer until you are able to make decent looking groups(at a minimum I would say 4 inches at 50 yards before moving back to 100).
 
Get rid of the silhouette targets and get a standard round target with a bulleye that you can see clearly. Sometimes sticking on those green dirty bird targets helps.

Then shoot only 50 yards with the same ammo and show us the groups.

I have pet loads for all my guns and if I'm going plinking and don't care I might use a lesser load but if I go hunting I always use the ammo I sighted the gun in with and don't change. The less changes the better.
 
as a shooter you could also be flinching or getting more uncomfortable with the rifle

mosins come with a Metal back plate which can cause discomfort in extended shooting

one could get the rubber recoil pad installed, it adds length for the normal american arm length and reduces recoil to you.

start with 25 yards or 50 and extend it out as you groups tighten as tahunua001 suggests.

most new mosin shooters i see at my ranges shoot 25 yards and still miss. its more of them being new, then the gun being off so much.
 
For learning a rifle, it is best to be consistent and shoot small groups. It doesn't matter too much where on the paper those small groups land. Once you get good groupings, you can sight in the rifle better (putting groups where you have the sights lined up.) (Use groups of 5 or more, otherwise statistical anomalies could ruin your zero.)

Some tips for consistency:
BREATHE, RELAX, AIM, SQUEEZE
Go prone or use a bench--this helps eliminate user wobble.
Use small aiming points--aiming at a 1inch target will force you to be more precise than aiming at a 10inch target.
Use the same ammo
Use the same stance
Keep the same grip pressure
Keep the same trigger pull--slow, steady, and consistent

Don't be afraid to stop and reset! Sometimes you'll get too caught up in trying to prep the shot, and you'll start to wobble. Relax, take a breath, and start again.
 
Lots of those Mosin Nagants have seriously pitted barrels and don't shoot well. It may also be the rifle. I don't know. I hope you also used a go-no/go gage and a calibration tool for the firing pin. They are available on ebay for cheap. Don't fire them unless you have done that.
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Some of those barrels are just worn out and their land/grooves are rounded off so much they won't shoot well. Take a fishing weight and push it thru the barrel to check it out (see you tube vids).
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You may be shooting fine.
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Keep up the shooting and check out the Mosin vids (lots of them).
 
It just gets boring. Shooting a .22 for an hour and then doing the same thing next week or the day after next.
Ok, here are a couple of thoughts.

First of all, if you're shooting to develop your skill then you should constantly be setting goals and working towards them. Achieving those goals and working to achieve them should be a challenge and should provide a sense of accomplishment. Both of those should go a long way towards keeping your shooting from becoming boring.

Here are some questions that can help you set some goals:

Can you consistently call your shots when shooting .22LR regardless of wind and at the various distances you typically shoot?
Can you estimate wind velocity?
What is your accuracy capability from a bench (MOA)? From the prone position? What about sitting or standing/offhand?

Second, don't take this the wrong way, but if shooting is boring to you, then you should at least consider the possibility that you've chosen the wrong hobby. It might be worthwhile to look around to see if you can find another hobby, one where you can enjoy, or at least tolerate, the considerable amounts of practice that will inevitably be required to become skilled at your chosen pasttime.
 
So for now, I should just keep practicing with my .22 at different ranges and then move up to the Mosin later? If that's the case, I don't mind. What ever I can do to start shooting better.

I'll look into getting some bullseyes this after noon for 50 and 100 yards. When I do shoot the Mosin I will be using Russian Surplus, as that's the most type of ammo I have.

Thank you for your help and sorry for my Ignorance.
 
Any new shooter with little to no experience is not in a position to evaluate the condition or performance of any rifle, much less an old milsurp like the Mosin-Nagant.

One in excellent condition (bore, crown, action) correctly seated in an original stock would be expected to shoot about 3-4 minutes of angle with surplus ammo- better with factory.

As mentioned, an experienced shooter needs to drive the rifle to even begin to evaluate whether the problem lies with the rifle, or you- the shooter.

It's certainly not necessary to learn to shoot with a .22, but you DO need to eliminate the rifle as a "variable"- meaning learning to shoot with a known, accurate rifle. This means simply put, it's "all on you".
 
Lets talk about Mosin's a bit.

The Mosin is a battle rifle. Its made to be shot, and shot a lot in combat, meaning its going to get hot. Its made to be able to keep shooting when it gets hot WITHOUT corking or shimming.

Think of a barrel as a water hose. If left along when the water runs through it, it flops around squirting water all over the place. The barrel works the same way, its not stiff, it flops like a water hose.

Now if we grab that water hose and hold it, the water goes on our flowers where we want it. If not we adjust our grip so it does.

Its the same way with rifles. They are designed where the stock holds them a certain way. If we change that hold, then we change which way the water, or in this case the bullet goes.

To see how this works, rest the stock of your rifle on a rest and shoot it at a target. Then slide the rifle back where the barrel is setting on the rest and using the same sight picture shoot it again. You're going to see a change.

Everyone wrongly thinks that a rifle has to be glass bedded and free floated to shoot. Some do some don't. It depends on how the gun was designed.

The Russians, (and everyone else who makes battle rifles) understand this and grip the barrel in a certain way (with the stock and other hardware) that best accounts for a barrel that's flipping around like a water hose so the shots can be contained, then design sight so that shot can be put on target and stay there during continued firing.

In combat you cant shoot three rounds and set the rifle down to let it cool. So the rifle has to be designed to shoot hot or cold.

You can see this easily by taking a factory rifle and comparing it with a military rifle.

I love Winchesters so I'll use that for an example (not the New FN Winchesters, they are different) but a pre or post 64 Unmodified Model 70.

Shoot 20-30 rounds as fast as you can. When it gets hot, it starts to walk.

Now take an Unmodified Military rifle (I'll say M1903A3 because that's what I tested this theory with when I tried it). Shoot the same number of rounds as fast as you can. You can shoot it faster because you clip load it. It like the Winchester gets hot, yet it doesn't walk like the Winchester does.

Its the way its designed. The Winchester is a hunting rifle designed to shoot 3-5 rounds in a hunting situation and it works great for that. The M1903a3 was designed as a battle rifle to be shot lots and fast, meaning it's not suppose to change impact when hot.

Another example is to take your surplus rifle and shoot it, as is, no modifications. Check the group. Now take a hose clamp and put it anywhere on the stock where it changes the pressure on the barrel and shoot it again. The groups wont be the same.

If you take your barreled action out of the stock and run a router down the stock where the barrel doesn't touch, and remove all the stock clamps, its not going to shoot as well as an un-modified stock.

We seem to thing we are smarter then Mr. Mosin, Mr Garand, Mr Browning, but our results don't pan out.

Battle rifles are made different then target rifles and hunting rifles, they serve a different purpose.

Now having said all that, most of us noticed the Mosin will shoot high. If you look at old WWI & II photos of Russian soldiers, you'll see then normally always carry their rifles with bayonets attached. It was the policy of the Russian army.

Like hanging a bayonet on the water hose, its going to change the impact.

We not normally shoot our rifles with bayonets attached so when we shoot our mosins they shoot high. We need to fix that, (I've covered how to do that without violating the CMPs vintage rifle rules before).

I shot a 3 Gun match one time using a USGI 30-40 Krag, on one stage I used the bayonet to engage close targets (balloons) to save a reload. Then I had to engage distant targets without taking the time to remove the bayonet. No difficult feat, I knew the different zeros with and without the bayonet so before I shot the stage I changed the sights.

Rifles are like women, they are all different, and its up to use to find their likes and dislikes so we can make them happy so they will work for us.
 
It just gets boring. Shooting a .22 for an hour and then doing the same thing next week or the day after next.
There are anumber of people who's shooting I admire. They all learned one of two ways.
Option one: They shot a lot of 22s
Option two: Somebody else paid for their ammunition. In all but one case a government agency.

If you ar shooting to develop skill, paying attention you are doing than shooting centerfire or rimfire isn't much different. How you pull the trigger, breathing, and a million other things. Paying enough attention that when you fell the sear break you know where the bullet went without looking. If shooting a 22 is boring to you then precision shooting centerfires will also be boring.

Everytime I go to the public range I see someone banging away with a MN on the 100 yard range. Usually a big scope, synthetic stock, and some other upgrades involved. I have yet to be impressed by any of those shooters. An MN is cheap and fun, but it isn't a good way to learn to shoot WELL. If you justwant to blow up a watermelon at 100 yards than an MN is perfect and all you will ever need.
Where did you get the idea to bed it with cork? I find it extremely unlikely that helped as cork is not rigid at all.

I should just keep practicing with my .22 at different ranges and then move up to the Mosin later?
I, and probably no one else, don't mean to say don't shoot the MN until you have 5000 rounds of 22 down range. Mix it up some. If yo are worried about the price of a new rifle you can't afford to shoot the volume you need to develop the skills you want through even a MN. You need a rifle that is accurate to begin with. The only way to do that on your budget is a 22(my budget also). But shoot the MN a little as you go.
 
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So for now, I should just keep practicing with my .22 at different ranges and then move up to the Mosin later?
If you enjoy shooting your M-N, then take it with you (along with your .22LR) when you go to the range and have some fun with it.

But if I were in your position, I would be working towards goals that I set for myself (perhaps with some assistance from a trainer or from a seminar/event/training session I had attended) to help develop a reasonable level of proficiency. In the beginning, you're probably much better off doing most of that work with your .22LR.
There are anumber of people who's shooting I admire. They all learned one of two ways.
Option one: They shot a lot of 22s
Option two: Somebody else paid for their ammunition. In all but one case a government agency.
I took option 3. I spent about a decade wearing out airguns before I was in a position to be able to start shooting firearms.
 
I took option 3. I spent about a decade wearing out airguns before I was in a position to be able to start shooting firearms.
I received basic rifle instruction on a Red Ryder BB gun from someone who earned a Marine Expert qualification. It was every bit as effective as if a firearm had been used. I am currently buying 22s as they are cheap with no ammo supply, but once I go back to looking at other things I will be buying a good target air rifle. I wish I had done so long ago. I could have practiced indoors much cheaper and more regularly than I have been.
 
One possibility is the barrel need to be cleaned really well for copper fouling. I've talked with and read about gunsmiths who have people bring in guns and claim the barrel is worn out. The gun smith cleans for copper fouling and it shoots like its old self again. As they described it to me, the copper fouling fills in the grooves keeping the bullet from rotating as quickly and not stabilizing. In theory a milsurp would be a prime candidate for this problem as it could have been shot thousands and thousands of times.
 
Mosin,
Re your 17 out of 20 in the black at 25 yards through your scoped 10/22, I don't know what the size or configuration of the target is, but (and this is education, not chipping) that leads me to believe the problem is you.

Unless there's something severely wrong with that Ruger, you should be getting 1-inch groups at 25 yards with a scope off a rest at that distance.
Two inches at most.

I've taught a niece & a nephew to shoot a .22 rifle at 25 yards & they were both doing better than it sounds like you are, with an H&R Sportster single-shot, iron sights. Both were younger than you are now.

The nephew, at the end of his first session, was busting biodegradable clay pigeons up & down a hillside easily & repeatedly at a lasered 60 yards with that gun.

Those here watching & trying to help genuinely wish you good luck.
People are not trying to dump on you just for fun.
Frustrating to see you trying to learn with poor equipment & no apparent local guidance or instruction from anybody at your end.

Your introduction to shooting, as far as you've laid it out here, has been largely the RG, an off-brand .22 rifle with questionable sights (don't recall if you ever learned how to use that one), and a Mosin of unknown condition.
None of those are particularly conducive to learning good shooting skills.
You've been handicapped from the start.

You say you've had some exposure to quality hunting rifles. Apparently not much.
Indications are you've now moved up to a Ruger 10/22, a quality gun with an established pedigree. We can talk about that Ruger as something of a "known quantity", as you scientists at NASA would say.
The vast majority of 10/22s function to a predictable standard of performance out of the box. That level of performance can be altered in either direction, up by tweaking, down by uneducated tinkering.

Assuming yours is unaltered, you should be able to get tight groups at 25 yards off a rest with whatever iron sights came on it.
You should be able to consistently cover five-shot groups at 25 yards with a quarter, a 50-cent piece at the worst, using a scope & even halfway decent ammunition.
It should be far, far better than 17 out of 20 in the black.

I'm not saying this to criticize or embarrass you, but to give you a standard to compare your performance to, so you'll know that the results you gave for your 10/22 are not what you should be getting, not what the rifle is capable of getting, and not what you should consider "acceptable".

By acceptable I mean a yardstick to measure your learning by.

Unless you're shooting that Ruger at tiny (REALLY tiny) black bulls, or don't have the scope properly zeroed, every hole should be in the black at 25 yards.
And they should be well inside 2 inches.

So far, you've mentioned very little involvement by your Dad, who you say shoots rifles.
Can he not help you with all of this?
Is there no experienced adult shooter who can help you work on your basic skills?

I may be wrong, but sounds to me like the issue isn't the hardware, it's you.
In which case, I'd try for competent instruction, as others have suggested, and I'd suggest you put the Mosin on hold while you work with that Ruger some more.

Even if you dislike glass, with the scoped Ruger you've eliminated variables like a questionable bore, long & indistinct trigger pull, bedding, warped wood, possible wandering heat-related zero issues, and sight regulation irregularities.

Once the scope's been zeroed, you can concentrate on "pure" shooting technique that should be largely unaffected by the above distractions & influences inherent to your Mosin.

The .22 may be boring for you, and it isn't an absolute requirement as a "first gun" or first learning tool, as also pointed out above, but as long as you now have a good one, better to work on your learning skills with it than with the Mosin.

Which would you see more accomplishment in: A boring .22 that you can actually HIT something with when you want to, or an exciting Mosin that you can't?

When you can produce a sub-2-inch five-shot group at 25 yards with the Ruger consistently, move it out to 50 yards & work on doing at least 2-inch groups there. Some will do better than 2 inches at 50, some won't. A good rifle should do at least 2 inches at 50 yards with a scope.

When you can do that, remove the scope, make sure the irons are zeroed, start back at 25 with them, then out to 50 yards with them.
Don't necessarily expect the same-sized groups with the irons, but you shouldn't be all that far off at those two distances.

These are clear graduated shooting goals to work on.
Known quantity rifle, same loads each time, same number of shots each time, zeroed scope, same rest each time, same shooting position each time, same SMALL black bull's-eye each time, same known distance each time.
Same shooting technique, breathing, trigger pull, "sighting" eye open.

With the scope, center the crosshairs in the black bull.
With the irons, adjust them so that you can use a 6 o'clock hold, which is essentially aiming at the bottom edge of the bull. Line up front & rear, put the black "dot" right on top of the front sight.
This gives you a more precise & more precisely repeatable aiming point & sight picture than trying to put the blade in the imprecise center of the bull.

This is not necessarily the sight picture you may end up using for hunting, but you're not hunting here.
You can adjust the sights to make holes an inch or two high above point of aim, or adjust them to strike close to point of aim, depending on how the sights are built & how much latitude they give you.
In learning, you're working on consistency & accuracy here, with this gun, not your final "working" zero, so start out zeroed at 25, change that zero if necessary at 50 when you get there. (Again- we're talking THIS Ruger. Slightly different adaptation of zero & distances with the Mosin.)
There's a reason adjustable sights were invented, use the adjustment feature for your practice.

Understand that .22s can be picky about ammunition, one rifle may shoot one brand better than an otherwise-identical rifle will.
For max accuracy in a .22, best to EVENTUALLY try several loads & go with the one that shoots the tightest groups for a given purpose (paper or critters, solid or hollowpoint), but DON'T worry about that starting out.

Pick ONE load & go with it while you're learning. If you practice with different loads, you'll be adding variables, getting different points of impact, and leaving yourself open (again) to wondering if it's the gun or you.

If you can find it in quantity, the CCI standard vel solid is considered the industry "Standard" as far as quality & reliable performance goes, I'd recommend that.
Failing that, I've had consistently good results with the humble American Eagle HP. Not always the most accurate, but almost always up there near the top, and very consistent. I've used it in a lot of .22s of all types, and it's pretty much a regular in new gun tests for me.
Again- known quantity.

There are problems reported with some Remington loads & some Winchester loads.
Federal's typically pretty good.

Early on, as laid out repeatedly above, you're looking for CONSISTENCY, not necessarily dime-sized groups.

As John said- set goals & work towards them.
Keep it simple & keep things standardized so you have a way to measure progress.
Once you've mastered that 10/22, with & without glass, you should have a much better grasp of shooting in general that you can later transfer back to the Mosin.

With your level (or lack) of experience, you're not ready to either hunt coyotes or to judge the inherent shootability of your Mosin.
You were talking elsewhere about shooting at a moving target.
You can forget that for the immediate future.
By all means, go along on a hunt if you can, but as an observer. You can get the basics of coyote hunting down that way, while you're still learning how to shoot at 25 yards.
Denis
 
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