The evil grip screw plot

I symphathize with UncleED. The Plot by Hillary to force us to buy all new tools for gunsmithing is designed for us to go broke so we can't buy any more guns.
At least the screws weren't designed by NASA....... then we would have found explosive bolts holding the grips on!:D
 
I must be an evil underling or something... I far prefer an Allen or torx screw. I have proper slotted screwdrivers for gunsmithing, but the smallest one I have seems to exactly match grip screws. No room for error to the right or left. You don't get it right? You will scratch some finish off a wood grip. No such issues with the other types.

A decent set of bit tips with all the Allen and torx bits one could possibly need can be found for under $25. You probably need them for other stuff around the house anyway.
 
I've learned to stop worrying and love the Torx. Plain flat heads or phillips are convenient, but they slip from the screwhead very easily (which is quite unfortunate if you just bought yourself a brand new set of cocobolo grips...).

I think hex heads are my least favorite, as I've stripped way too many while working on other (non-firearm) projects to ever really trust them.
 
And then you find the 'security' version of the Torx, with the pip in the middle to stop you using regular Torx bits ...
 
I have seen posts where people claim that John Browning used a wide slotted screw head for the purpose of fitting the base plate of his magazines allowing the 1911 to be taken down without any tools whatsoever, in the field. Perhaps the design (slotted screws), should be left well enough alone...or carry your designer screwdriver with you wherever you carry your 1911.
 
dahermit said:
or carry your designer screwdriver with you wherever you carry your 1911.

Probably be a good idea to carry a torque wrench also just in case you have to rebuild your car motor whenever you go anywhere.
 
Just buy a Harbor Freight "Security Bit Set". I think I paid $12 for mine and it has come in very handy a number of times.
 
The brand is Wheeler.
Known for not being a quality set of bits/tools.
Just buy a Harbor Freight "Security Bit Set
Personally I would stay away from the junk tool store (Harbor Freight)
Spend the extra money and get the set Brownells sells. Lifetime guaranty no questions asked and they are quality tools and bits.
Why would one buy the cheapest tool out there to work on a firearm worth 100's to 1,000's of dollars????????:confused::rolleyes:
 
The security bit set is decent quality, and you would be hard pressed to find a more complete security bit set elsewhere. I can't order a bit from Brownells every time I come across some weird fastener. My Harbor Freight Security bit set has saved me a lot of trouble a number of times.

FWIW, grip screws can be replaced on all modern firearms for a few dollars - you aren't going to ruin any $1,000 grip screws. It's not like you are going to use these security bits to bugger up frame screws on an old Colt.

Sometimes you need the best tool. Sometimes you just need the right tool.
 
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I have seen posts where people claim that John Browning used a wide slotted screw head for the purpose of fitting the base plate of his magazines allowing the 1911 to be taken down without any tools whatsoever, in the field.

This got me curious, and while I no longer have the WWII Remington Rand I once had, I still have a pre-series 70 Government model, and an Argentine Systema Colt. With them, the tip of the magazine baseplate is just a tiny bit too thick (tried several GI mags) to fit in the grip screw slot, without marring it.

I have a friend who has a 1911, and will ask him to check, but I just drove him home from surgery today, so it will be a couple days, I expect.

You need ONE "tool" to strip the original 1911 design (both the GI guns and the Colt commercial guns. This does not apply to later changes in the design, such as collet bushings, one piece guide rods, etc.

The only "tool" needed is something small enough to poke the firing pin in, so you can remove the firing pin stop. Once you do that, the entire rest of the gun can be disassembled and reassembled using only the parts of the gun and your hands as "tools"

Quite literally, unless you are naked, alone in a sand only desert, you have or can find something to poke in the firing pin. The point of a rifle bullet, the stiff tip of a bootlace, the GI can opener (which also is a screwdriver), tons of things a GI would have on or around him, or things that can be found in the environment.

The firing pin is a punch, to remove the mainspring housing pin (which is why one end of the pin is cup shaped, so as not to damage the firing pin tip), the sear spring is a screwdriver (that one leg is to turn the "screw" in the magazine catch), the hammer strut works to disassemble the magazine, and the "tail" of the follower will work on the grip screws.

The curious thing is that this was not taught at the user level, not formally, anyway, and the user is not authorized to do it, either. Higher level maintenance is where I learned the tricks, though not formally. It's neat that you CAN do this, but there's no credible situation I can think of where one would need to repair the gun the GI way (replace broken part) and have the part, but not the simple tools normally used.
 
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