The evil grip screw plot

UncleEd

New member
What masters of evil doing came up with the grip screw designs? :mad:

They have put a hex on us.

What ever happened to just the plain and good slotted screws?
A few screw drivers were all that was needed.

Now I'd guess half a dozen or more screw head designs have been
foisted upon us. And it seems no two gunmakers of autos such
as the 1911s, Sigs, Beretta etc. can decide on any common design.

Perhaps Gaston Glock and his design for grips actually reveal he's
a living saint. :)
 
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Regular old screwdrivers often fit those new fangled screws, as long as the flat is the same width of the hex or star version.
Try it the next time ya' run across one.
 
I know PART of the reason they put on allen or torx head screws, it is to reduce damage to the screws from ham fisted idiots using anything that fits in the slot instead of the proper tool.

I said "reduce" instead of "eliminate" because of things like this...

Regular old screwdrivers often fit those new fangled screws, as long as the flat is the same width of the hex or star version.

The most common damage to firearms is damaged screw slots. The most common cause of that damage is from people using "regular old screwdrivers" in those screw slots. Or anything else that "fits" including knives, chisels, spoons, or anything else handy that "fits".

because they don't fit, PROPERLY. It is the "slop" in the blade fit with the screw slot that allows the screwdriver blade to "slip", and damage the screw slot. Hollow ground screwdrivers are today, common and cheap, and can be found in sporting goods stores, unlike decades ago, when they usually had to be ordered.

using an Allen head, or something else means you need the right tool and almost nothing else will work. USING something else sometimes works, but can also damage the screw. Ever seen an Allen head screw with the hex slot all "rounded out"? That comes from using the wrong tool. (or the wrong size). When that happens, the damaged screw is very difficult to remove, and may require drilling it out.

The upside is fewer damaged screws, because people looking at the hex socket are not going to just grab a screwdriver out of the kitchen drawer and use it on their guns. Of course, some people are going to try that, anyway, there's nothing we can do about those people.

The down side is that one needs a special tool like an allen wrench or torx driver, which may not be available unless YOU have planned properly and have the right tools available, and are patient enough to get them, and use them (some people aren't).

I much prefer slotted screws, and I do have "gunsmith" screwdrivers. I prefer slotted screws because, in an emergency, you CAN use other things on them. The trick is only using the wrong screwdriver (or butter knife) when it IS an emergency, not when getting the right screwdrivers is just an inconvenience.

The original GI 1911 & 1911A1 could be detail stripped, including all screws, using only one "tool" (anything small enough to depress the firing pin), all the other needed "tools" are the parts of the gun itself. This is a big plus for a combat weapon, where the solider might not have the right tools with him in the field.

While it mildly irritating needing a special tool for the grip screws, what bugs me more is the "proprietary" SPACING of the grip screws. If you get a S&W 1911, standard COLT (or USGI) grips will not fit! You have to use a S&W grip, or one made for that specific make & model gun. My son has one of the S&W 1911s, so I know this from personal experience. I don't know if Ruger, or Sig, does it as well, but I suspect they do...
 
My workbench has every size of hex wrench/bit, Torx wrench/bit, screwdriver, specialty bit, and punch necessary to work on my firearms and reloading tools. Unless I'm doing something crazy and have to go get a breaker bar or 5 lb hammer from the garage, then everything is within reach (even an assortment of saws, files, stones, etc.).

My range bag has three sizes of Torx wrenches, a set of SAE allen wrenches, two flat-heat screwdrivers, one #1 Phillips screwdriver, an delrin AR 'takedown pin punch', a 3/32" punch, and a "micro-bit" screwdriver and bit set (mostly for sight adjustments). And each of my vehicles has a multi-tool, a pair of 6" Vise-grips, and 8" (or larger) channel-lock pliers (and various items suitable for protecting a firearm, if clamping is necessary).

Those tools cover pretty much everything. ...Except for the recent discovery that I need to now include a set of metric allen wrenches in the range bag. I don't recall where I discovered the metric hex screws, but it sure was surprising. :rolleyes:


It's irritating to have to keep such an assortment on hand. But, honestly, I'd rather have a bunch of compact hex and torx wrenches in my range bag than a bundle of bulky screwdrivers.
 
I do have a couple of those gunsmith's screwdriver sets around and use them. The other day one of the flat head tips broke with very little tension against it. I turned the plastic container over and sure enough it said made in China. The brand is Wheeler. I am assuming it is the tips along with the plastic box that were made in China.

Over half of the two sets I have contain various tips that are any and everything other than flat head and phillips head tips. It is confusing to and old man who still can't adapt to the metric system. :confused:
 
No "evil plots"... but marketing! So many manufacturers...so many variations...so many shoppers... When it comes down to a design of a screw, it means a manufacturer is thinking to be like the next best seller on the shelves. The 1911 is a good example. High ends have their mark on the small details to justify their price mark. Their handguns were good already, but for their competition that called out by the details! It's an "I want it all" frame of mind to be the shinny-est at the store and the range...a male thing, for sure. Manufacturers want to offer more varieties in the high or least cost. A "grip screw" does not make a final decision in a buyer's purchase! It's the skill of the manufacturer to give the best and most precise "bang for the buck."
 
Going to help a buddy ...

sight-in a 870 a slug barrel.

Elevation screwi s standard slotted head, the darn windage is a "HEX"!
 
44 AMP said:
I much prefer slotted screws, and I do have "gunsmith" screwdrivers. I prefer slotted screws because, in an emergency, you CAN use other things on them. The trick is only using the wrong screwdriver (or butter knife) when it IS an emergency, not when getting the right screwdrivers is just an inconvenience.
Ditto.

I have two drawers full of grip screws for 1911s. One drawer is slotted screws -- I periodically buy batches of those from Brownells. The other drawer is gradually filling up with hex-head and Torx-head screws -- any 1911 I get that has hex or Torx screws gets immediately replaced with slotted screws and the "fancy" ones get tossed in that second drawer. I tell myself I can use them when I sell a pistol, but then I never sell a 1911 so that doesn't work too well.
 
It may be a plot, but I think it is to improve the ability to get the darned screws in and out of the grips without damaging them. Torx do require an additional screwdriver or bit, but they are much easier to remove and install in my estimation. Plus, I rather like the looks of them. Driver bits are not very expensive. I don't see any problems with different screwheads.
 
Those strange screw heads are designed to make it impossible for owners to work on their guns. They want you to send it in so they can charge you.
 
Knives have gone the same direction. In any case get yourself sets of torx drivers - a good source is WIHA .
BTW my first torx drivers were for my FORD pickup [held the seats to the frame . 12 years ago ?
 
The masters of evil doing came up with the Torx screw as well.
"...means a manufacturer is thinking..." More about how to keep their customers from taking a screw out than marketing. Nobody will buy or not buy based on the type of screw used. If they do, they have one loose.
A "gunsmith" screwdriver kit is marketing. The assorted "bits" are expensive and not exactly easy to replace. Real smithies make their own tools and grind a regular screwdriver to fit what they need it to fit.
 
If you work on motorcycles, you already have all the Allen wrenches
& Torx bits that you will ever want, or need ;)

And practically everything on Bows & Crossbows since 1990
have been Allen...

Personally HATE Flathead screws, too much slop, even with the expensive gunsmith screwdrivers...
so when possible, I'll change 'em out to Torx or Allen as long as its not an antique gun...
but if it's a beater/shooter grade, they'll get changed in a heartbeat ;)
 
Personally HATE Flathead screws, too much slop, even with the expensive gunsmith screwdrivers...
so when possible, I'll change 'em out to Torx or Allen as long as its not an antique gun...
but if it's a beater/shooter grade, they'll get changed in a heartbeat
Yep.

I built a custom Marlin 444 last year (well, 3-year project). I used hex screws for anything custom that I added.

There's another project on the work bench right now (based around a '70 Glenfield M30 .30-30) that will get the same treatment. Except, this time, I'm fabricating almost every custom part for the rifle, and the concept is pretty far off the beaten path. So all new screws will be hex drive.
 
Through an extensive investigation on my part and compiling over 41,000 documents on this subject I believe I have found the reason for this grip screw design hex that has been placed unwillingly on us.

It’s a concept called “Supply and demand” and “GIVE THEM WHAT THEY WANT”
The following is one of those companies that hex us,,,, Dam them!
http://www.altamontco.com/accessories/
 
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