Testing Loads

ninosdemente

New member
I have been getting my feet wet with loading 30-06 and .223 and have been looking at videos on testing loads. I started with 55gr and now loading with 69gr and have used Vmax, Nosler CC and Barnes. All of these have been loaded at starting loads. Have been using IMR 4064 and Varget. I know tests consists of other powders/brands. But for what I have at the moment wanting to go further and see what and how to determine what gives me a better result if applicable for my rifle. As mentioned, have been looking at videos but the search has yielded many forms of testing on youtube.

Is there a process that is widely accepted and/or used in order for one to find out what one's firearm likes better? I am testing on Savage 12FV 223.

Weight, powders and brands have been chosen from reading online what has worked/used for others and from here as well along with recommended from here. I understand one's results doesn't indicate it will apply to me or yield the same results. At least for me, this has been a starting point for me and I will eventually might/have to try other powders/weights/brands down the road.
 
Before you start a new load ask yourself what it's for? Hunting? Paper/steel? Varmints? Then define your max distance desired. That will lead you to bullet selection. Brass wise I believe we should always use the best we can acquire. Budgets vary so you make due with what you can swing. Powders are what you have reasonably available to you on a regular basis. Primers are like powders.
Once you have the purpose and gather your ingredients..then begin load development.
 
I agree with Bfglowkey, first you need to establish what your goals are then establish were you are at. Establish goals and work towards them, be realistic with yourself as far as your shooting skills. A lot of reloading problems can be solved by more trigger time.

I assume you have read the basics on reloading by now. Lintz and Bower have some excellent advanced books. If you have not read them yet then take the time to do so if precision reloading is your goal. After reading evaluate your procedures and refine with retaining what works while discarding what doesn't. Use common sense and experiment with different components.
 
Thanks guys. Yes read the basics of reloading.

My realistic goals are for paper only at least for the .223. The 30-06 will be for hunting deer. For now want to concentrate on .223.

My max distance at the moment is geared for 200yds since that is the farthest the range has where I go. I do still have a lot of practicing but I know have to work at it. Not the worst but nowhere near good to where I want to be. Perhaps I should upload a picture of the last target and let you guys give me your opinion. At least to help me "analyze" if that is an appropriate word. Curious, for this type of testing is it best to start at 100yds? Reason why I ask is because I usually am at 50yds as my son is with me when I go to range. Don't get me wrong, glad he comes with me so I will always put him first before me and until he decides he doesn't want to go one day I plan to go, which almost never happens. Lol.

Will look up the books recommend hounddawg, thanks.
 
IMO, do you initial load development at 100 yds, 50 yds does not show/indicate much.

I have a FV12 223 and during my load development phase for this rifle, (primary purpose is paper and pdogs) I wanted an accurate load with an explosive bullet. Go to Nosler's web site for their reloading data and it will give you numerous load combo's to try. I had 10# of Varget on hand so I started with that powder. The data indicated Varget's most accurate load was 23.0g and I loaded some up to test.

A good starting point is to follow their specs (brass, primer, OAL, etc) and adjust from there. I determined that my FV12 prefers LC brass, and I changed the primer to S&B's which tightened the groups just a bit/hair more. I do use Nosler 55g Varmegeddon bullets, both tipped and hollow points for this load. The OAL's are slightly different due to bullet shape, but I can shoot a 10 shot string of this load (5 of the tipped and 5 of the HP's) mixing them up in random order or alternating and the group size does not change significantly. I even had a range buddy do this test with 10 shots, and he got the same results.

Load development takes time and some focus. Take/make good notes so you know what you've done/tested to avoid re-do's. I realize/respect you want your son to go with you to the range, but you may need to go solo so you can focus on the task at hand to get your basic load developed, then you can fine tune it on a joint trip to the range.
 
I agree with all the advice that has been posted for you so far, and I would add one thing.

When you work up loads, only change one thing at a time. For example, I started my 223 work up with Federal brass, Win small rifle primers, and H335 under Hornady’s 55gr SPBT FMJ. All cases were prepped/trimmed the same and all bullets seated to the same COL. Using load data from three sources, I started at the low end and worked up in .5 grain increments to find the load that gave me a desired velocity and accuracy at 100 yards. Once I settled on that load (and I had to return to the bench and disassemble a few that were loaded heavier) I reloaded another batch around my best .5 grain load, this time in .1 grains increments, to find the sweet spot.

When I changed to CCI primers, I did the same all over again, and for my gun and loads there was a different sweet spot. I would recommend starting over anytime anything changes, case brand, primer brand, bullet weight/shape, and especially powder.
 
50 yards is ok to start. Shoot some factory stuff for a baseline so you can have comparison. Once you have a better idea of your own loads, move out.

I learned respect for factory loads when I started reloading.

Enjoy, it’s another hobby.

David
 
I have the 12FVSS in .223 with a decent load it is hard to find a load that does not shoot well in it. I load a great shooting economy load of 55 grain VMax with H335. For the heavier weights I go with Reloader15. Varget will do what RL15 will for the most part. It just so happens that the same loads that shoot so well in my bolt action shoot well in my AR too.

I run all mixed head stamp brass. The load I use you would be hard pressed to show a change in POI with segregating brass by weight, or case capacity. I keep my loads at standard magazine length so they will load into my AR mags.
 
Thanks again for the help/tips/suggestions guys. Very much appreciated. This for sure is a starting point for me plus winter is here so I will have plenty of time to work on this.

jpx2rk, I have Nosler 7 book and on there 69gr is not listed. I checked online and also on their 8th book, 69gr is not listed. It only goes up to 64gr. What does this mean other than the obvious its not listed. I know there are other books that have it listed as the Lyman 50th does list this weight and higher.

Hounddawg, thanks for the links. I actually found this in pdf version: https://www.amazon.com/Long-Range-S..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=GWGDQD6XMK0JGYV6Y08D

After doing a search yesterday... did see so many books out there. Not a surprise as there are many books out there for other peoples interests. Just difficult to choose which will be a good starting point if one doesn't ask for a little help.
 
"...what it's for?..." Absolutely. Pick one cartridge or rifle. Your Savage will do nicely. Then pick the bullet weight according the rifling twist. (The brand makes no difference at all. 69 grains is 69 grains. You do not load according to who made the bullet.) Pick the construction of the bullet according to what you're loading for. As in varmints, targets, deer if it's legal, etc. Then the powder. Usually best to start with whatever powder is given for the accuracy load in your manual. And work up the load.
No powder throwers when you're working up the load either. Weigh each charge, loading 5(or a mag load) of each and go up by .5 to the max load. Stripper clips are really handy things for keeping 'em separate, but so is a factory box.
You get to start over if you change the bullet weight. You should start over if you change any one component too. Never noticed enough difference when changing just a primer though. The brand of case makes no difference.
"...only goes up to 64gr..." Close enough. The 5 grains won't matter. There's lots of 69 grain data on-line though. The Nosler 7 book will only have stuff that No$ler makes. However, they list heavier than 64 grain bullets under 5.56NATO.
 
Nino,

To me it doesn't matter what purpose the load is for. An accurate load is an accurate load, be it hunting,or target. Only difference is what bullet to pick.

And a 69gr bullet, is not a 69 gr bullet as T.O. would have us believe.
Check out Alliant's load data for 69 gr bullet in 223. Same powder, different amounts for different makes of bullets.

Pick your bullet, and your powder. Start at start loads, and do a ladder test. You rifle will tell you what charge weight it likes.
 
It takes some sorting and that is the nature of this.

Its why I like Hornady and Sierra Books. Most calibers and family of bullets, have a wide variety of powders listed.

Go online and you will find which ones are the more common go to.

Varget is good power used right as is 4064.

With guns yo9u can just go with tendencies.

Sierras shows 4064 over a range of 223 bullet weight as well as Varget. Good choice.

Then its a matter of bullet weight and twist and what generally they like - some are happy outside the range and some are not.

Once you find a node then you can change the COAL to see where it likes it best.

I don't do ladder tests, I don't hve the distance to do so most range sessions.

I just star low and work up at 3/10 and .020 off the lands and see what looks promising.

Usualy if starting new I load 10 of each, two 5 shot groups.

You tend to find one node lower down and another node or two higher up.
 
Nino,
Picking the right bullet lies in what your trying to accomplish.
For hunting (take note for your 06') i know from experience that Nosler Ballistic Tips are accurate and perform well on game. (165gr for 06')

After much research i found that Bergers original VLD target bullet is now their VLD Hunting bullet. Accuracy is very good, and performance on game can be amazing.

I bought a box of Noslers Accubond Long Range to try, yup at the range.
Performed very well out to 600 yards. So i"m going to try them on game in my 7mm Rem Mag, and 284 custom Mauser.

For target work, there are a bunch of good bullet choices as well.
Sierra MatchKings are pretty much the standard.
Nosler, Hornady, Berger, and Lapua all make excellent target bullets.

For the MatchKings the new Tipped MatchKing gives better BCs.
I'm shooting 69gr MK, TMK out of my wifes Savage 110FP in 223.
At longer ranges the TMK is blown around less by the wind.
 
Hounddawg,

It's not the ogive that you worry about when doing a new load.
It's the shoulder length, material, construction.
 
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