Tempt and torment me with your rust-bluing pics and stories.

P

Pond James Pond

New member
A recent thread on S&W refurbs got me thinking back to a gun I saw redone with rust-bluing (Ruger SP101, IIRR, but could well be wrong) here on TFL.

Basically, if I had the courage to attack the finish on any of my guns, rust-bluing would be my choice for the look and resilience.

I fantasize about re-doing my Astra 680 (which I think would look phenomenal) and CZ SP-01 (which I think would look, you guessed it, phenomenal).

So tell me about, or better still, show me your rust-bluing achievements!!

please...
 
Anyone who masters rust bluing and has the proper equipment, time and patience can achieve wonders. There are many old guns that were rust blued that could be restored and made to look new again.

Rust bluing is a time-consuming process.
 
The best finishes require processes that are impractical, dangerous, or illegal to do in the home... At least here in the US.

Cold blueing at home can be done, but its not as nice of a finish as hot blueing.
 
Most gunsmiths now use bluing salts, although it is really blackening not bluing, it gives a good finish without a lot of time.

Although I haven't used it myself, Pilkington Classic is the best stuff I currently know of to do rust bluing (link below). It takes a lot of work and is not fast but has great results. Unless the gun is worth a lot of money, labor costs really drive the price up if you are paying to have it done. I have used Dicropan-IM and it also does very well. Less work than rust but not as deep results. YMMV

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/pilkington-classic-american-rust-blue-prod9815.aspx
 
You may have better luck in the gunsmithing forum.

They don't get out much and may not see this thread. ;)

P.S.

After a little snooping and searching I don't think you will get much more over there than what you are getting for responses here.
 
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Rust bluing requires a steam cabinet, and repeated applications of and carding off of the resultant rusting until the correct finish is achieved.

I have only known one guy who did what I consider good rust bluing, and he was doing it to "restore" Lugers that had no pitting and maybe a little blue wear to sell them as "mint" guns. His biggest problem for those with experienced eyes was that he did the straw recoloring a little too intensely. His guns could (and did) certainly fool the uninitiated, as he generally didn't tell the prospective customer that he had refinished them.

As I stated in my first post, rust bluing takes special equipment, is highly labor intensive and in general, one giant PITA.

I wouldn't mind attempting to rust blue a couple of guns as most of what I have is old stuff anyway, but trying to keep a steam cabinet at the right humidity in Arizona is a bit of a challenge.
 
Rust bluing requires a steam cabinet, and repeated applications of and carding off of the resultant rusting until the correct finish is achieved.
Click to expand...

That is one advantage of Pilkington Classic, no cabinet needed. Still a lot of work but the chemistry has advanced.
 
I have rust blued a few things. I use "Belgian Blue." It's very simple to use and works well. It requires no special cabinet. Rust bluing holds up and protects BETTER than hot tank bluing.
 
That is one advantage of Pilkington Classic, no cabinet needed. Still a lot of work but the chemistry has advanced.
Click to expand...

Have you used it? How were the results? How durable is it?

I know that Pilkington makes some killer wood finishes.
 
I have rust blued a few things. I use "Belgian Blue." It's very simple to use and works well. It requires no special cabinet. Rust bluing holds up and protects BETTER than hot tank bluing.
Click to expand...

What's the procedure?
 
From the Brownells site -

Herter's Original Formula Blue For Doubles & More

This is the original Herter's Belgian Blue formula, now owned by Art's Gun & Sport Shop, and the results are just as nice as ever. A desirable choice for bluing soft soldered doubles and for the occasional rebluer who can't afford/doesn't want a hot salts bluing set- up. Applies easily: Clean the gun thoroughly, boil the metal in water, remove, wipe dry and gently swab on Belgian Blue, with no slops or runs. Return to the boiling water for a few minutes, then remove and card with fine steel wool. Repeat these steps until the desired color is achieved. Works on all gun steels except stainless. Instruction sheet included.
Click to expand...

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...y-bluing-chemicals/belgian-blue-prod7604.aspx
 
For the steaming/boiling side, would a pressure cooker work?

I have a big one at home: holds about 2 US gallons and weighs a ton!!
Click to expand...

It would probably work very well, but you also need to build some kind of cabinet to enclose the steam (usually wood suffices).
 
You don't need steam.
Use hydrochloric acid to remove the old bluing. It will rust just fine afterwards. You can also put the gun in a box with a small glass with a little HCL in it. Produces rust like crazy. Don't let it rust too much or too deeply before boiling.
The HCL will also rust anything else around it, so be careful.
 
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