Taurus 608SS4 owner opinions

turkeestalker

New member
I am not looking for bashing of the brand.

We already know that Taurus is known to be hit and miss on quality control. There are good ones and there are bad ones.

My personal experience thus far is four good ones with a 62 rimfire rifle, an 83SS revolver, 85 View revolver, and a 431 revolver.
I've yet to see a bad one, but I do know that they're out there and perhaps this will ruin my string of luck, or perhaps not.

I've an opportunity to pick up a model 608SS4, which is a stainless 8 shot .357manufactured in 2007 for $200 out the door.

The revolver is in excellent condition, has been used but not abused.

I believe that the revolver may have a bit of a timing issue based on what the previous owner told the pawn shop, though it is not detectable through an inspection in the shop.
I'm betting I would have to shoot it to know for sure.

Regardless, I did contact Taurus simply to ask about warranty work.
They will provide a shipping label for $50, parts, labor, and return shipping is on them.

I realize the possible risk, but all in for $250 I'm tempted.

I don't need it, I already have one of the new Ruger 5033s in layaway, but the Ruger may appreciate some company in the safe and there will be less of a fight between my sons when they divvy up its contents one day.

Anyone out there own this particular Taurus model that can share their opinion of it and sway me one way or the other?
Most all that I've read is pretty positive.

I say again, I'm not looking for any brand bashing. From my own personal experience I already know that a good majority of it is just the haters.
 
I am NOT a basher....hear me out please

I have a 608SS8 and it's a hand carbine. I only load it with AA#9 and 158gr Penn bullets [except for JHP for HD/SD]. I bought it new 6-7 years ago.

[We own a gun store, in the family for several decades, son/dil run it now]

The day it came in is the day I sent it back out, to Miami, before even firing it. [we have an indoor range at the gun store]
Fast turn around (10 days later), second shot locked it up TIGHT, sent it to Miami for it's second vacation.

In a nutshell, it went back three more times for a total of FIVE times, but never cost me a dime.....just time and frustration.

I made it a point to load max loads for it [Lyman 49th Handbook] when it came back the fifth time [didn't tell Taurus I reload, I suggest no one does] because I don't need a firearm I have to baby. Especially a .357magnum. Please don't think I am dishonest.....if I load ammo within SAAMI limits, what's the difference, but hey, they don't know me.

When I got it back the fifth time, I had it on the range in 15 minutes and ran 100 rounds thru it as fast as is reasonable [not trying to break it again, but also trying to be accurate and make sure it FINALLY got fixed.

Never had a problem since, shoot it regularly with 11.5gr-12.5gr AA#9 and 158gr Penn Bullets lead. [because it is an 8" barrel] I use the same load in my Ruger M77/357 carbine.....and it is awesome !

The Taurus website described the trigger as a ["with hand-fitted actions, and clean, crisp triggers right out of the box"] and I can see it is true with mine. It is as good as any/all of the S&W Performance Center revolvers that I own.

Even if you had to hassle with $50 to send it to Florida [a trip to disneyworld would cost you a little bit more], had to wait however long [and once you paid the $50 you should have free both way shipping for life if you ever had additional problems].....

For $200 I would not hesitate to buy it, even knowing what may lie ahead.

Not to get your hopes up, but some Brazilian made came with so much funky shipping grease inside that they had function problems, and just needed a GOOD cleaning and a proper lubing. The side plate is very easy to remove and clean and put back, if you feel capable. Just PLEASE don't use regular screwdrivers for this purpose, spend $20 and get a set of B-Square bits and driver.

Buy it and you don't like it......I will give you $200 and pay the shipping, K?

When you get it running, you will never let it go.
 

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Thanks for the reply ozo. Glad that through the trips back for service it turned out positive in the end for you, just hope if there is an issue it doesn't take so many trips to correct.
Yes I learned long ago about using hollow ground screw drivers of the correct size... the hard way. Never make that mistake again.
 
For $200 it's a no-brainer. A good thorough cleaning might cure whatever its supposed problem is. As long as it locked up tight, the barrel looked good, and the trigger was decent, I would definitely go for it.

Out of many dozens of handguns, my preferred HD handgun is a slightly rare (Model 689) Taurus revolver that I bought used for $199 some years back. Its trigger, sights, and accuracy are as good as any of my Smith, Ruger, or Colt DA revolvers.
 
S&W tooling

Many people forget that S&W/Brazil sold their factory to Rossi many years ago.
No idea what is still original in it these days, but.....look how many Rossi/Taurus revolvers look just like S&W.
 
You're right tallball, the more I thought about it the less question I had.

Well it wound up being $215.73 with tax, but I'm not complaining any.

There was quite a bit of old amber goo inside the lock work.
Cleaning it out helped the DA trigger but it is still heavy, though it does break crisp and clean.
SA trigger is outstanding.

Gun show tomorrow, so maybe I'll get out Sunday to try it out and see what issues there might be.

Trip in for service or not, I'm happy enough at this point so we'll see.

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Got out to the range with it today.
Only fired about 66 rounds of factory ammo through it.
50 of .357 and two cylinders of .38 Special.
It was very accurate and pleasant to shoot, a real pussycat with the .38s.

There does not seem to be any issue with the timing, but it did experience a few light primer strikes.
Those rounds did fire when struck a second time.

I noticed a light blue colored paint on one side of the mainspring and hammer spring when I had it apart to clean it up.
Not sure if those are factory springs of if someone may've changed them out in an attempt to improve the trigger or something.

Thinking I'll order a set of Wolff springs and play with it to see what I come up with.

Anyone know if a circa 2007 Taurus revolver would have factory springs marked with light blue paint on one side?
 
I have owned abut 10 Taurus handguns in my days, some autos, some revolvers. I think Taurus is the unsung hero of the inexpensive guns. I have a 5 shot titanium .357 snubby that weight 14 ounces, shoots great and has well over 5,000 rounds through it without a problem. I carry it all the time. It shoots better than my Chiappa Rhino that I paid more than double the price of the Taurus or my S&W Airweight that was also double the price of the Taurus. I also have a .45 Taurus Millennium Pro that holds 11 rounds of .45 with a 3.25 inch barrel that is accurate, low recoil for a small .45 and will eat any ammo I feed it. I find myself carrying the Millennium more than my 3" barrel Kimber because it is lighter, holds more ammo and is just as accurate. I bought a .45 XD MOD.2 subcompact that I thought would replace the Millennium but the Millennium shoots better.
 
These revolvers typically sell for $450-$550; you got a heck of a deal. I own a duo-tone 6.5" barrel M608. Do a polish job on the action before swapping out springs. DA pull is going to be on the heavy side anyway due to the weight of that cylinder. Lighter springs won't cure that and they will cause light hammer strikes. To the best of my knowledge, factory springs don't have paint on them. The one upgrade I do recommend is to install a ball crane latch to make it a true triple-lock setup. NEVER do the "Hollywood wrist flick" to open or close the cylinder on these revolvers. Of course, you shouldn't do that with any revolver.
If you handload, you'll find out the real advantage these revolvers have. The cylinder will accept cartridge lengths of up to 1.725" which allows you to reach Magnum velocities at considerably lower pressures. The 180gr Hornady XTP seated to its lower cannelure will easily fit in the cylinder.
 
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I've an opportunity to pick up a model 608SS4, which is a stainless 8 shot .357manufactured in 2007 for $200 out the door.

I like that price.

I believe that the revolver may have a bit of a timing issue based on what the previous owner told the pawn shop, though it is not detectable through an inspection in the shop.
I'm betting I would have to shoot it to know for sure.

You've seen Jim March's revolver inspection document, right? See this thread, stickied at the top of the revolver sub-forum..

Regardless, I did contact Taurus simply to ask about warranty work.
They will provide a shipping label for $50, parts, labor, and return shipping is on them.

I realize the possible risk, but all in for $250 I'm tempted.

I'd say, the used price is good. You may luck out and have no problem, just a prior owner who didn't know what he was talking about or didn't know how to run a revolver.

Even $250 I'm OK with, if it comes to that.

Where the calculation gets vague is if needs to go back to Taurus' Miami mothership multiple times, to get fixed right.

Not a Taurus basher here. I have one revolver, could see getting others in the future. Assuming I survive.
 
Thank you all for your input, now I need a bit more.

New developments:

The transfer bar that was in this revolver, was incapable of making good contact on the firing pin.
The firing pin is rounded at the back where the transfer bar contacts it, and the bar itself has a beveled profile on it's face so as to add to the issue.

The bar was simply not rising far enough to cover the firing pin well and make consistent contact.
I thought that with the available clearance in the cavity, I could straighten a bit of the factory bend in it and lengthen it some to help with the issue.
Ummmmm.... I can be a bit of a dum-bass at times... stupid fish! :o
Certainly not my first jug-headed move and I'm sure that it won't be my last.

Not having been designed with a two piece transfer bar originally, I needed a replacement.
I contacted Taurus, and after a bit of a snarky little chat spat with them online, they agreed to send me a new transfer bar.
The new transfer bar rides a heavy 16th of an inch higher in the revolver, making solid contact with the back of the firing pin.

No explanation.
Who knows maybe the original transfer bar was broken by a previous owner and they bought one used which did not quite fit the revolver but 'sort of' worked.
The one in it when I bought it is identical in dimension to the one in my 431 which is a slightly smaller frame but identical grip. *shrugs*

Did play with a Wolff spring pack in it and between that and the transfer bar I got past the light primer strikes it seems, but have realized a new problem that I'm unfamiliar with.

I have never had a revolver jump a chamber when the cylinder rotates, but this one did for the first time today at the range.

It advanced past one round completely and on to the next.
It occurred more than once, and in both DA and SA use.

Never had that happen with any revolver before, nor heard of it.
Worn cylinder stop maybe?
Any ideas or insights?
 
It sounds like your Taurus is the victim of someone who knew just enough about "tuning" a revolver to muck up the works.
 
I used a sharpie and numbered the chambers on the outside of the cylinder yesterday after returning from the range and experiencing the skipping of a chamber.
I was able to make the revolver duplicate what it had done at the range twice on chambers numbered 5 and 7.
I dismantled the revolver completely and looking each part over carefully, searching for some sort of excessive wear or anything unusual that could explain what had happened.
Couldn't readily identify anything out of the ordinary or possibly defective.

I did stone a little on the inside of the frame and side of the hammer where it had some scoring from days past before I owned it.
I cleaned some rather sharp rolled edges off of the opening that the cylinder stop protrudes through, (that could have been the issue but doubtful by itself).
I also generally cleaned some sharp edges off of some of the internal parts.

I've tried at least 200 times since to duplicate the cylinder jump and can not.

Don't know if it could have been the edges around the opening of the stop inhibiting it's function, or maybe some debris of some sort inside the revolver.
I'm just not sure.
I'm also not sure if it will do it again in the future, but there is only one way to find out.

Time will tell, but it's not going back to Miami just yet, and I'm not yet terribly discouraged... I'm learning.

Besides, the revolver seems to be crazy accurate.
On my first trip to the range with it, first shot was an inch low and an inch left at seven yards. Second shot no hole... third shot no hole... hmmm....fourth shot opened the existing hole enough to see at seven yards, and I realized that they'd all passed through that spot. :eek:
Not the norm with this jerk on the trigger.
 
Haven't done much with this lately so I decided to dig back into it.
I did say early on that I could be a bit of stupid fish right?

Um... yeah... yoke screw tension. :o

No idea why it never dawned on me as the screw was visibly recessed into the side plate and should have been an obvious clue.
Betting that the issue of occasionally jumping a chamber is null and void but going to have to put a few hundred rounds through it in SA to know.

My oldest eagerly volunteered his assistance with the task... go figure! :rolleyes:

No more complaints with any of my four Taurus revolvers (and now three Taurus rim fire rifles).
 
Yoke screws have been replaced on several of my brand new Taurus revolvers. Worked fine after.

Don't be afraid send it back if something new pops up. They made it after all.
 
It was dry first thing this morning and I headed to the range with 300 rounds of semi-wad cutters.
It began sprinkling again about 15 miles out and the creek was about as swollen as I would chance to cross when I got there.
Only got through 50 rounds before the sprinkling turned to steady rain. :(
At least those 50 went fine but that's no test.
Another day.
 
The 608 shoots full house magnums like 38 specials because of the mass. If you got 50 out of it w/o problems, you should be good to go. The thing about Taurus revolvers is that they either work or don't. The only problem I've ever had with Taurus revolvers was a loose ejector.
 
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