Tactics in the dark...

My house has just enough light at night for someone familiar with the house to walk through if their eyes are dark adapted. It is still dark enough they would trip on anything left on the floor so I always clear the path to the stairs before going to bed. The downstairs is a tad brighter due to outside light.

The ideal playout would be that I would be waiting in the dark at the top of the steps and once a BG entered "the tunnel" I could light them up with a Surefire and get the jump on them. My bedroom door is about 1' from the top of the stairs, so hopefully I can get there before any BG does. Hopefully I never have to worry about it because I have a dog and an alarm system... anyone still trying to get up the stairs with all that commotion is seriously stupid.

I also installed these really cool deadbolts I found at Target (made by Master Lock) that allow you to disable the tumbler from the inside so they can't be opened (even with a key) from the outside. This means anyone setting off the alarm broke a door or a window and is most likely not my friendly neighbor or a child who decided not to spend the night at their friends house.

My next project idea is to connect the lights downstairs to the alarm system via X-10 so they all turn on when the alarm goes off.
 
My next project idea is to connect the lights downstairs to the alarm system via X-10 so they all turn on when the alarm goes off.

Hmm... hear noise, arm self, slide out of bed, hit X-10 switch to light up downstairs....count to 3, turn lights off, listen for exclamations about excrement or sounds of intruder tripping over things in the dark. :D Then go to the top of the stairs with your flashlight.

Seriously, a 3 second exposure to lights will blot out an intruder's night vision while you retain yours. And you can turn the lights back on if needed.

Two other solutions:
Door/Window alarms - you can buy inexpensive First Alert self-adhesive alarms for doors & windows. I installed these on my sliding front windows so that if the window is opened at night, the screaming alarm will wake me up. (tip: use velcro to affix the magnetic switch "bar" in different spots so you can vent the house in summer.)

Motion-Sensing adapters. A friend's house has two areas where people might enter that are served by opaque hanging lights. He installed adapters in each so that entering the house at night the lights automatically turn on. He added the above alarms, one set to scream (den door) and the other to door-chime (rec room) so he can tell which door is open.
 
Well, I have two of the dual 250 watt bulb motion activated lights on the outside of each entrance, way up high. They will light up ALOT of ground very brightly. That, plus the chows inside, that ask me all the time why I don't let people visit, :eek::D and I think I'm ok.
 
In low light use a simple basic gun, not a complex one. An accurate and fast firing gun helps also. If you have a shotgun or a rifle tie a smaller gun to the stock, so when youre out of ammunition you can switch.
 
I feel that using a silver or chrome-plated pistol helps me a lot in low-light.

Anything that makes it easier for you to see your pistol in the dark also makes it easier for Mr. BG to see your pistol as well. He sees your "nickel-plated sissy pistol" and knows exactly where you are while you might still be looking for him. Better "get yourself a Glock." (yes, those are movie quotes, only reason I used 'em lol)

Personally, I like NightSights. I understand if you're holstered, then those sights can become an upward facing beacon that also gives away your position. However, since I'm not LEO or active military, if I'm in need of my gun in the dark then it's going to be up in front of me at the ready, not holstered, and the only way Mr. BG would see them is if he was behind me.
 
The most effective short range night site is a dab of fluorescence on the tip of an iron site. Any type of fancy illumination you become a target yourself - you've got to stay unseen. Long range (rifle) is a good old scope with lots of light gathering capability.
 
Low & Reduced Light Training with Tom Perroni

Low & Reduced Light Training

by Tom Perroni

When people hear the term “Low Light shooting”, what they most often think of is shooting in the dark, while this is a bit misleading. At Perroni’s Tactical Training Academy “Low Light shooting” is using a flashlight in conjunction with a handgun to fight when the area you are in while in the fight the light is low or reduced or non existent.

In the FBI’s (UCR) Uniform Crime Report it tells us that 80% of all Law Enforcement shooting happen in low or reduced light. So as a Concealed Carry permit holder, do you carry a flashlight? Even if it is not dark outside could you be in an area of low or reduced light? EXAMPLES: Parking Garage, Stairwell, Hallway, Alleyway, closets, tunnels, etc. This report transfers to “citizen” CHP shootings as well. Perpetrators of street crimes are more active after sundown. So if you do carry a flashlight, do you know how to use it?

“The fear of the dark works both ways; you will be better prepared if you train in low and reduced light.”

The first step is having the tools. You need a flashlight, but which one? Surefire, Mag Light, Min Mag, Asp Tactical LED, etc. Before you decide, you need to know this:

What is the purpose of the Tactical Flashlight?

1) As an aid in low light navigation and movement.
2) Locate and identify and assess threats and innocents.
3) As a non lethal tool for controlling suspects and subjects.
The biggest question I get asked about flashlights is:

What is the difference between candlepower and lumens?

Lumens is what is used to specify the total amount of light coming from any light producing device, and candlepower refers to the highest value of the light intensity to be found anywhere in the lights “beam”.

Lumens tell you how “powerful” the light-producing device is, be it a light bulb of any type, a flashlight, or a car headlight. Candlepower tells you how tightly focused the beam is, assuming the light source has a lens or reflector to focus the light into a beam.

Lumens can be measured quite accurately, using an instrument called an integrating sphere, and identical lights would all have similar lumen values. It is an important quantity to know when comparing different lighting products, as it tells you how much light each one produces.

Candlepower can also be measured accurately, using a light intensity meter to measure luminous intensity, and then by applying the appropriate formula, which takes into account how far the meter is from the light source. The problem is that the value measured depends on where in the beam you take the measurement (the highest value found is what is normally used), and on how well the beam is focused. It is not unusual for candlepower values to vary greatly from unit to unit on otherwise identical lights due to small differences in focusing or reflector tolerances.

Ken Good from Strategos, Intl. www.strategosinternational.com put it this way:

Lumens verse Candlepower

“Lumen - Measurement of a quantity of light as perceived by the human eye. As a light source’s color temperature increases, less light is required to achieve comparable brightness and visual acuity. The international unit to describe the quantity of light (also called luminous flux). – That’s why SureFire uses this as a standard benchmark for all of our illumination tools.

Candle Power (Candelas) Used by lighting designers to calculate the foot-candles illuminating a surface (C.P./distance in feet squared) or Lux illuminating a surface (C.P./distance in meters squared) Foot-candles -Measurement of light output in candela per square foot. It derives from the early English unit of foot-candle defined as the illuminance on a surface placed one foot from the standard candle. 100 foot-candles is generally considered enough light to perform most tasks. Lux - Measurement of light output in candelas per square meter. One lumen per square. 10 lux is generally considered enough light to perform most tasks.

These terms are useful to assist in determining the “signature” of the illumination tool you are speaking about. No one term will fully describe the overall usefulness or quality of the emission. For instance, you can have a light with a tremendous candlepower rating at one point in the pattern, but the rest of the pattern in not useful. I.E. dark spots, splotchy, and/or weak.”

The standard in the industry and the light used at Perroni’s Tactical Training Academy is the Surefire G2. For about $30.00 you have a solid flashlight with about 65 lumens.

The next question I get asked is what about night sights? Or what kind do you use. In my opinion night sight are good in reduced light situations because they give you a visual reference of the front and rear sight and this can be helpful. I teach my students not to shoot until they have identified the target. For this in a reduced light situation you need a flashlight, otherwise you are just shooting off into the dark. My (2) key night sight points:

1) Excellent tool to locate the main aiming point of your handgun.
2) The sight is not the total answer to the problem; you must see and identify the threat first.

Remember: Night Sights assist you in aiming! However they do not assist you in:

1) Identifying targets
2) Navigating
3) Searching

The flashlight is also useful for searching for subjects, as well as blinding them with light to shut down the OODA loop. As well as like we said earlier, target identification.

However there are (3) things one must learn before the refinement of techniques and tactics they are;

1) Reduce Telegraphing.
2) Be acutely aware of being in or creating a Backlit condition for you or your team.
3) Avoid blinding yourself or others.

Also realize that if you are in a gunfight in low or reduced light and you are using a flashlight that if the Bad Guy is armed and committed, they will fire directly into the source of light.

At that point you must distort your opponents perception of what is actually happening and where you are actual located. This is done by using the following:

1) Displacement
2) Angel of the Beam
3) Rhythm and duration

The reason this is so important is that you need to conceal your movement from your attacker. You need to train so that you can deploy both your flashlight and your handgun simultaneously and accurately. The shooter must be proficient with moving and shooting before they move on to moving and shooting in low light. Also remember running with a handgun or handgun and flashlight is bad.

I also stress one handed shooting and training with one hand and yes, also working with the weak hand (Support Hand) as well. Because after all, when you are shooting with a flashlight in your hand you are shooting one handed.

So with all that information let’s talk about Hand Gun Shooting Techniques in Low or Reduced Light. What follows are some examples of shooting Techniques that can be employed with a flashlight. However remember, the Tactical Golden Rule that I am sharing with you is ‘A’ way to do the technique not ‘THE’ way to do the technique. Review the following with an open mind, try each technique on the range, but keep the one or ones that work best for you.

Rogers Technique: Light is held between the fingers and activated by pressing against palm of hand see picture below.

Harries Technique: Similar to Weaver stance, except the back of the support hand is pressed firmly against the back of the shooting hand. This enables the support hand to operate the flashlight while providing isometric stability to the shooting hand. See picture below.

Ayoob Technique: Simply thrust both the light and the gun out to approximate an isosceles position, with both thumbs touching. Ayoob teaches that if you place both thumbs together in horizontal alignment out to about seven yards the light will shine in the assailant’s eyes while the handgun is indexed on his chest. See picture below.

FBI Technique: In the FBI technique, the flashlight is held away but much higher than the modified technique from the body with the non-weapon hand. The technique is simple but takes support away from the firing hand. See picture below.



Weapon Mounted Lights: I am not a huge fan of weapon mounted lights the advantages are Support hand can be free. It’s always there on the gun. The
Disadvantage in my opinion are Searches- If you have a suspect at gunpoint how can you search for more suspects without taking the gun off the suspect?

In summary I would like to reiterate a few key points: (They are as follows)
Many flashlight techniques have been developed throughout the years. The ability to accurately engage targets in low-light conditions will always depend on the individual’s skill to shoot their weapon with one hand. An operator should learn a variety of flashlight techniques, and train on these techniques regularly. However, the foundation of low-light training will always be learning the skill required to shoot their weapon with one hand.

I have attempted to provide you nothing more than a skeleton of knowledge of how Flashlights & Night Sights work and a few Handgun Shooting

Techniques. I urge you to do a few things:

1) Practice Shooting with one hand (both strong & support hand)
2) Practice shooting with your flashlight.
3) Draw, Move, Shoot, Communicate!
4) Shoot to stop the threat… don’t stop shooting until there is no threat.
5) Get a quality flashlight and carry it at all times.

We have a saying at my training school: “Conflict is inevitable; Combat is an option.Always stay in condition yellow and when all else fails align the front sight and press the trigger and the button on your flashlight!”

Stay Safe & Shoot Straight!

Tom Perroni

Tom Perroni is the owner, President and Chief Instructor of Perroni’s Tactical Training Academy. Pulling on a five-year law enforcement operational background, Tom has spent the last fifteen years delivering training to government, military, law enforcement and private security companies. Tom is a NRA Certified Firearms Instructor and NRA Range Safety Office, Maryland State Police Handgun Instructor, Virginia DCJS Handgun, Shotgun and Advanced Handgun Instructor /Trainer for the PSS section. Tom is also a Contract Instructor for Blackwater Training Center.Tom is also the Training Director for Golden SEAL Enterprises .He is a member in Good standing with IALEFI & ILEETA. Tom appreciates feedback and can be reached through the Contact page on his company website at http://www.perronitactical.com or http://www.goldensealenterprises.com


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My opinion of flashlights is that they are for searching and not for handgun fighting. (I have both a Streamlight TL-3 and a TL-3 led)
Flashlights in a gunfight are a bullet magnet.
I believe in staying low, using cover/concealment and using the threat's silhouette as the target. Remember too, that lasers used judicially in the dark, can paint a target with residual light for ID.

One thing that I've learned is that the old school trainers and the gun game-players are stuck in their own world of laser sight denial. They just don't get it. They're good because they've trained with hundreds of thousands of rounds downrange....but, who cares!

In the real world ninety nine percent (99%) of handgun owners have that gun 'strictly' for self-defense.
They barely practice, they don't play gun games and handguns are not in their realm of recreation. Many are aged or are physically challenged, have poor eyesight, need bi/tri focal glasses. Some are handicapped, obese, frail, bedridden, live alone, etc.

Advanced training is nearly non-existent for these folks. But, they can train themselves and perfect their aiming by unlimited dry-fire practice in their home with a lasergrip.

Nearly everyone can instinctively point shoot at close range if necessary. And fortunately, nearly everyone can lay a laser dot on a threat and press a trigger.....from just about 'any' position without using sights.

Most defensive shootings occur at very close range and under great stress.
In a real self defense situation everyone will focus on the threat, thereby verifying that threat. With a lasergrip sighting system they can pinpoint the POI on the threat while looking at that threat....and especially so in low light and darkness where 80% of encounters occur.

Below is an excellent laser equipped setup for the barely trained self defense shooter.

sw.jpg
 
I am not a BG. I have even been an LEO, a real honest to gosh GG. But if I were a really nasty BG and you put your flashlight out in front of your face, you better hit me right in the eyes with the light the first time you turn it on. If you didn't, I would blow your silly light and the head behind it into a bloody mess.

Jim
 
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