sw686 and sw66

The full-lug looks like an over-under shotgun.

Fine on an over-under shotgun.

Not so fine on a revolver.

In fact, downright UGLY on a revolver.

I have to drink beer AFTER I look at it just to kill the image in my mind.
 
The new model 66 does indeed come with a full lug barrel (I shoot mine every week). The 686 is a larger frame than the 66, and can be had in a seven shot version. Internals are similar. Both are the best wheelguns around.
 
So is the 686-6 the latest model?
What is the latest model 66?

Also, what is an ejector rod (how will I know if it is shrouded or not)?
 
Ejector rod...

When you open the cylinder, it's what sticks out from the front of the cylinder.

You push on it to eject the spent casings.
 
Mike,

When I bought my 686 it was the full lug that sold me. I like the way it looks. That was almost 20 years ago and I still like it. To each his own I guess.
 
Well I went and shot a 686P today. 50 rounds of 38+p and 50 rounds of .357. The store person told me it was an older model 686, it didn't have the drop safety.

The 38+p was totally manageable, and easy to shoot. The .357 was a blast, I can tell it would take a lot of practice to get used to it. Do people really shoot the .357 a lot? Or do you mostly train with 38+p and only shoot the .357 occasionally? Also, how is the 38+p for defensive purposes? Is there any caliber that comes in between the 38 and the 357?

A couple things I didn't really like. I'm used to having the slide lock back after the last round is fired from a pistol. It gives me a good feeling that the gun is empty. With the 686, I couldn't visually tell if all the rounds had been fired.

Another thing. When I push on the ejector rod, the casings don't fall out all the way. Some of them get hung up on the release knob, and I have to use my finger to coax them out. With a pistol, all I do is pop out the mag.
 
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Is there any caliber that comes in between the 38 and the 357?

Actually there is quite a bit of overlap tween .38spec and .357mag. Heavy .38spec loads are often stouter than mild .357mags.

Ejectorate clearance.....make sure cylinder is all the way swung out, then press ejector rod vigorously......cases should drop ritht out. Helps to have muzzle elevated when doin this.

Briskly without slamming anything.

Sam
 
Full lugged barrel's-

Actually, I too like the looks of revolver's with full
lugged barrel's; beside's the 686-5, I own a 629-5
Classic .44 magnum and that's what sold me on it.

As for the 686-5, I bought it mainly to shoot mild
.38 Special target load's; opting occassionally for
the more powerful .357 magnum rounds.:) :D

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
 
You're not employing the proper ejection method.

It sounds like you're babying the cases out with the muzzle pointed down range.

Tip the muzzle of the gun toward the ceiling, and give the ejector rod a good whack.

This does two things -- It propells the cases out of the gun, and it helps prevent unburned powder from getting caught under the ejector star and fouling the gun.
 
I have a S&W 65LS which I absolutely love. It is smaller, lighter and handier than the L-frame. It has fixed sights and a 3" barrel but is still highly accurate. It is well balanced and is truely a great gun. With medium and mild strength (for a .357) .357 loads it will probably last as long as the heavier L-frame, with stouter loads it will wear out faster but will likely last as long as you want it to. I definately like the K-frame Smiths (if you really want something bigger buy a N-Frame .44 to make it worth the extra size :D ).

Do people really shoot the .357 a lot? Or do you mostly train with 38+p and only shoot the .357 occasionally?

Actually the .38+P has become (to my great surprise) one of my favorite rounds. It has very mild recoil (at least compared to .357) for quick follow up shots yet is very effective for self-defense. That said, I use it for occasional practice and fun (just like the .357) but I don't think many people use it for training with the gun very much. If you want to use lower powered (and cheaper) training ammo it is better to use regular .38spl as it is MUCH cheaper than either .357 or .38+P ammo.

? Also, how is the 38+p for defensive purposes?

It is supposed to be very effective. It isn't quite as powerful as the .357 but there are fewer overpenatration issues and since it isn't as powerful you can get faster follow up shots. However, there are .357s and there are .357s, some are stronger than others and there is certainly a brand/load of ammo that will work great in any, reasonably sized, gun (I find moderate strength 125 gr loads, like the Winchester USA brand .357, are very controllable in my 65LS). I love the .38+P round and wouldn't feel undergunned with it, I probably use it (for home defense purposes) almost as much as .357s in my gun.

A couple things I didn't really like. I'm used to having the slide lock back after the last round is fired from a pistol. It gives me a good feeling that the gun is empty. With the 686, I couldn't visually tell if all the rounds had been fired.

I have a friend who keeps pulling the trigger and when it doesn't fire assumes he fired off all the ammo. Makes me very uncomfortable as it could be a slow burn situation (don't want to pull the trigger on a dud, open the cylinder and then have it go off :eek: ). Kind of dangerous but, even after sometimes finding unfired rounds with indented primers that way, I can't get him to stop.

I got in the habit of counting my shots. If you have a gun with 6 bullets in the cylinder and you've counted 6 shots you know you're empty (same with 5 or 7 shot revolvers, you just need to keep in mind how many it holds). Never had a problem once I got used to it (doesn't take long). Now I'm so much in the habit of counting my shots that I do it when shooting an auto (just need to keep in mind how many you loaded). It quickly became second nature and there is no danger of being shot by treating a misfire unsafely.
 
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