sw686 and sw66

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ump45

New member
What is the difference between an s&w 66 and an s&w 686?

From looking on the www.smith-wesson.com website, one difference is that the 686 has an "L-Medium" frame and the 66 has a "K-Medium" frame. What does that mean? Another difference is that the 66 comes with "Uncle Mike's Combat" grip, whereas the 686 comes with "Hogue Rubber/ SB" grips. What's the difference there?
 
The L-frame is an outgrowth of the K-frame.

L-frames are "beefier" in certain critical areas to better withstand the pounding that .357 Mag. ammo gives, and will last longer before having to be repaired.

Both have the same grip size, though, and thus use the same factory or aftermarket grips.
 
One more point-

The model 686 Smith & Wesson .357 magnum comes
standard with a full lugged barrel; the S&W model 66
.357 magnum does not.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, Life Member N.R.A.
 
"What is a full lugged barrel"

The ugliest damned thing you ever saw.

Essentially, the full-lug looks a lot like a second barrel slapped underneath the first.

This is a picture of a 686 with the full lugged barrel. Notice how the barrel looks a lot larger around? Well, pretty much the lower half of it is the lug section.

Adds weight to the gun, which admittedly does help with recoil (pretty much a non-issue with a .357, if you ask me, better with a .44 Mag.), puts WAY too much weight out front, making the guns handle like crap compared to a 19/66, and just looks ugly ugly ugly.

686.jpg
 
Is the 66 the best out of the K-Medium Framed DA .357Mag revolvers? How much is the K-Medium Frame an issue when a gun gets a steady diet of "normal" .357Mag?

I'm concerned about getting the L-Medium Framed 686, since I don't know if I will like the full lugged barrel. Do they make the 686 without the full lugged barrel?
 
UMP,

Well, we're talking thousands of rounds here with a K-frame, not a few hundred.

Depending on your shooting levels, you may go years and years before you start having problems, or you may only get a year or two if you shoot a lot.

No, they don't make a 686 without a full-lug barrel, but boy do I wish they did. I'd buy one in a heart beat (well, a 586 in that flavor, I don't like the looks of stainless guns).

My suggestion would be to either find a range with a 686 to rent. Test fire it and get an idea for how it handles.
 
I would MUCH prefer 586 over 686. Stronger and last longer.

686 only Smith I have been able to wear beyond practical repairability. In bout 30,000 rounds fired and total of 60,000 rounds loaded. Yes, dry fire and speedloader drills wear em a bit too.

Sam
 
Care to explain precisely what is the difference between a 585 and a 686?

And back to my original question which nobody really answered, is the 66 the best K-Medium Framed s&w revolver?
 
difference between a 586 and a 686?

M-586 is the blued version (now discontinued)
M-686 is the Stainless version

I too feel that the 6" barrel with an underlung looks "ugly"
but the 4" barrel just looks plain mean.
 
586=blued-steel or nickeled L-frame .357...686=stainless-steel L-frame .357...otherwise, pretty much identical guns....mikey357
 
Well, Skip-2 beat me to it, but...I'd like to go out on a limb here and say I LIKE the full-length underlugged barrels!!! Maybe that's why I had to go out and buy the first 629 "Classic Hunter" I saw, back in about '88 or '89...probably goes back to a case of "Python Envy" from my poor college-student days...LOVED the looks and "feel" of the "Snake", but could only afford USED S&W's or Rugers....mikey357
 
"And back to my original question which nobody really answered, is the 66 the best K-Medium Framed s&w revolver?"

It is if you like stainless steel and adjustable sights in .357 Mag.

If you (like me) don't like stainless, then the best is a Model 19.

If you like fixed sights and stainless, a Model 65 is best, if you don't, then a Model 13.

It really comes down to a question of preferences. They're all superb revolvers, best found on the used market to avoid the political issues that have fouled Smith & Wesson's reputation.
 
Mike Irwin, Thanks for that explanation. Everything made sense, except what is the difference between a model 13 and a model 66?

Also another question (yes I'm a newb), what is the difference between fixed sights and adjustable sights?
 
Ok here come some really basic questions, but I have to learn somewhere so thanks in advance.

What are the pros/cons of the stainless versus the blued?

Is there any practical difference between the round butt and the square butt?

What is the difference between the adjustable sights and the fixed sights? Why would I need adjustable sights? Do the adjustable sights have problems with sliding out of tune?

What is a shrouded ejector rod, and why would I want it or not?
 
Here's something really easy for you to remember about S&W revolvers.

If the model number begins with a 6, it's stainless steel.

The difference between a 13 and a 66 is the 13 has fixed sights and is blued steel, the 66 has adjustable sights and is stainless steel.

Fixed sights means that the rear sight is basically a groove in the topstrap.

Adjustable sights, however, have screws in the rear sight assembly that allow you to move the bullet's point of impact left/right or up/down.

Some S&W revolvers also have adjustable front sights, but they're meant more for competition or hunting use.

The most practical advantage to stainless steel is its resistance to corrosion. If you live in a really humid environment or near the sea, stainless might be a better choice.

A shrouded ejector rod means that there is a hood around it. It helps prevent damage to the rod if the gun is dropped or struck, but it can also be a place for debris to catch.

All in all, I think it's a good idea.
 
OH COM'ON NOW!

The full lug looks excellent!
That's one of the reasons I chose the 686 over the King Cobra.

I do like the looks of the 4" barrel a bit better, but the 6" looks just fine.

If you think it's ugly, drink a couple beers and look at it again. :D
 
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