SW 686, barrel overclocked...plastic parts?

BondoBob

New member
Well I was thrilled to finally get a new 686-6 4". It looked fine at the gun shop. Locks up tight, actions all feel great. Haven't fired it yet, going to Monday.

I was a little disappointed to realize the front site is plastic, and wobbles a bit. I'd like to replace that with a metal sight maybe with tritium or something. My other smith's are much older and all parts are stainless steel. Any recommendations on which brand of sight? And should I have a local gunsmith do it, try it myself or send it to smith if there's a factory upgrade available.

Secondly, it seems the cylinder release is also plastic. Damn!, I'd expect that from a Taurus or EEA but not from SW. Yes, I can do that one myself, but where would I get one that's quality. I'm not confident in Ebay.


Lastly, and most important, it looks like my barrel is a bit overclocked, canted or whatever you call it. Never seen this before. It's very slight, see in the photos.

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But my guess is it's just about 2 degrees off, which is their acceptable tolerance according to SW customer service rep. Now to me the sight picture is not significantly changed. My fear is if I send it back to SW, they may actually make it worse. Hopefully this is only a cosmetic issue that I can get over. Can anyone who's seen a lot of these tell me if this is just not worth worrying about, or if it looks too far off and should go back?

Thanks,
 

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Which specific model (catalog number) is it?

Is the entire front sight plastic, or are you referring to just the red insert?

Thanks.
 
While my first revolver was a model 686, bought in 1981 when they first came out, all my other S&W's were made prior to that time when the quality was higher and bought used in excellent condition. I won't buy a S&W that doesn't have a pinned barrel. If you really want a 686, I'd peddle that revolver and get either a no dash or low dash number 686.

Don
 
I know, the old 429 and 442 I have are so sweet. It's such a shame that SW has sold out quality. Everything else about the gun is very nice, trigger, lockup, fit and finish are all fine. It's so inconsistent. What are they saving?, maybe $50 by doing this. I'd gladly pay the $50 more to have all steel parts. I bought this primarily as a plinker and to test re-loads for my other guns as I learn that craft. Old SW's are very hard to find here, been looking for over a year. I think I'll keep it if it shoots strait until an old one turns up then trade in for the no dash / low dash model. Until then, anyone have any ideas on my original questions?
 
If the barrel is over-clocked that is a warranty issue and S&W will fix it. I bought a new Colt MKIII some 40 years ago with a clocked barrel; it happens.

The red inserts in the front sights has always been plastic. Nothing new. Some people have them replaced with gold or brass by a gunsmith. Tritium can also be done.

The cylinder release is not plastic but stainless steel. Take it off and try to stick a pin into the backside of it.

Call S&W about the barrel and I bet they will send you a shipping label. Good luck
 
I wont even entertaining buying any S&W firearms newer than 1980. I've learned from experience. With yours, I would shoot it first and see how it does. If it's not to your liking, send it back amd make them fix it. They will, but be prepared that it might take a few trips. It all depends on who the assign to your gun.
 
If the barrel is over-clocked that is a warranty issue and S&W will fix it.

Howdy

He states that the S&W rep stated that is within tolerance, so I doubt they will do anything about it.

For what its worth, I bought a brand new Model 686-6 with a four inch barrel in 2015. I got it home before I realized the barrel was canted. Actually, I did not discover it until my first shooting session at the range. I had to shove the rear sight ridiculously far over to the right to get it to print where it pointed. This is how far the rear sight had to be set to bring the point of impact to the point of aim, and yes, I have been shooting revolvers for over 40 years and I know how to point and aim them.

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This is the front view of how the yoke does not close completely because the canted barrel prevents it from closing all the way. It may not look like much, but something like this never would have gotten out the door when QC was up to snuff. Yes, bad on me for not noticing it before I left the store.

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P.S. yes the red front sight inserts have been plastic for a long time.

If you are talking about the thumbpiece when you say it is made of plastic, I kind of doubt that. Mine is a Metal Injected Molded (MIM) Part.



In these two photos the thumpiece on the left is the standard old forged and machined style, the ones on the right are modern Stainless Steel MIM parts.

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I don't have any problem with MIM parts per se, or the lock either. I do have a problem with poor QC, and will not be buying any more new S&W revolvers. There are plenty of terrific old ones out there and they often cost less than brand new.
 
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Driftwood, I agree with you about the general decline of S&W revolvers over the last 20-30 years. I missed the part of the OP's post where he had contacted CS and I stand corrected and surprised.

I own only two made post Bangor Punta which, in it's self, wasn't a stellar time in S&W's history. One is an early pre-lock 638 I bought new that had to return to the mothership because the cylinder length was out of spec and would misfire. The trigger is canted to the left and the finish has flaked off. It does shoot well though and I carry on occasion. The other is a 2 1/2" 686 that's superb.

I know you're a serious collector, and have a deeper knowledge of these guns than I, but I have been around a long time. The new ones just are what they are. I wouldn't buy one.
 
I would shoot it, and see how it shoots. If the rear sight cannot be adjusted to shoot to POA, I would request a return label. It will not come back worse than what it is.

I have old Smiths and I have new Smiths. The newer ones are the most accurate. I have 3 686s, a 4", a 5" and a 6". Two are post IL and all shoot very well.
 
Thanks all, I'm going to the range in the next day or two. We'll see where it hits. I'm mostly worried about the barrel overclock. The sight is an easy fix. I'll post back results and let you all know if I'm sending it back or not.
 
In my salad days (green and mixed up) I had a M19 that required the rear sight be cranked all the way right to get on target. Never occurred to me to send it back.

Long after, when I had a 6" M686 sawn off to 5" for IDPA (then cut again when they changed the rules) the Weigand ramp would not be close to center of the rib serrations. So FLG just milled the whole top of the barrel rib flat and square with the top strap.
 
I own only two made post Bangor Punta which, in it's self, wasn't a stellar time in S&W's history.

I never really understood that. I have several Smiths made during the Bangor Punta era, and their quality is top notch. Apparently the Bangor Punta era was from about 1964 until about 1984. My Bangor Punta Smiths are all from 1974 or 1975. In fact my Model 19-3 and my Model 17-3 are the first Smiths I ever bought, bought brand-spanky new in 1975. I have been inside them and outside them for many years, and their quality is top notch.

Plus I always got a kick out of those blue boxes that proudly stated that S&W was a Bangor Punta company.



Model 17-3 1975

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Model 19-3 1975

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Model 14-3 1974

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I never had a problem with Bangor Punta itself. I have a lot 70's made S&W's that are very well made. But the move to press fitted barrels in 1980 & 1981 really turned me off.

Don
 
FWIW I have bought numerous new model S&W revolvers over the past 7 or 8 years, and every one of them has withstood my very thorough inspection. No canted barrels or for that matter any other issues. But I'll grant that such issues happen. Hope the OP reports back as to whether his canted barrel is slight enough for a modest rear sight adjustment, or whether it needs to go back to S&W. The 686 (current model) 4" is a beautiful gun. I have one and I prize it.
 
S&W ain't what it used to be, the last 40 or so years has taken it's toll. I've bought several new S&Ws over the years, out of 7 new ones, one seems as it should be and it had a hammer spring in it that was way way too heavy, replaced it with a new standard spring and it's fine now. All the other have something wrong with them, sent 4 back to S&W, one of them 3 times before giving up on it(Bangor Junta gun). Newest is a 629 bought a few weeks ago, it should go back but I may try to repair it my self.
Bottom line is that I'm more surprised if a new gun is good than if it's bad.
It's not only S&W, the others are about the same......Ruger replaced a CMD, had to send the replacement back for warranty repair.
 
My new king cobra is on the way back to the mothership for its second repair for light hammer strikes. Cmon folks.. 800.00+ revolver and won’t go bang every time? If it’s Not good when it comes back it’s going to Frank Glenn to get fixed then SOLD...
 
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