Super Newbie Question- Do I need a manual?

I didn't mean to imply that I didn't want to pay attention to the details, and if anything I probably want to pay more attention than the rest of you because I know very little about what I'm doing.

My question was more along the lines of "if I keep it simple can I get by with simple information?"

I understand more now about the answer to that and why.
 
Every manual will have something the others do not. The Hornady manual intro pages are very good at describing the function of a case. However the ABC's Of Reloading is what I'd suggest you start with. THEN read this forum and you'll get a good education.
 
Nor did I pennydog. Hope it didn't come across that way. Just general thought about reloading. It's a dangerous hobby.
 
Just general thought about reloading. It's a dangerous hobby.
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Not anymore so than driving. Pay attention and know what your doing, you will be OK.

It's not that complicated there are 4 components that have to be put together correctly, that's all.
 
Not anymore so than driving. Pay attention and know what your doing, you will be OK.

It's not that complicated there are 4 components that have to be put together correctly, that's all.
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That's always struck me as funny that people will drive to a range and shoot and not think a think about the trip there is likely more dangerous than anything to do at the range.

for the OP:

I call it Risk Mitigation. And that is what reloading is really at the heart and soul in its safety aspect.

Its also what is called in my field toggle action.

That means everything is fine until its not, and then its really bad.

Think of the Space Shuttle and the cold O rings. Ok, we know its not rated to 32, but seems ok, so we will do it. They got away with it. The next crew died because they decided if 32 is good, 25 should be fine.

Reloading itself is pretty simple and you can make decent ammo without getting at all exotic.

So simple is fine.

But well informed simple is where you stay safe.

If I was starting out I would get the following

1. ABCs of reloading. The simple stuff is there and advanced stuff (you don't have to neck turn to start with)

2. Either Hornady latest or Sierra Manual (I have both as well as Horandy older ones). Hornady has the newer powders and bullets, Sierra has let theirs get a bit dated but its also extensive and I like the binder type.

While many disagree, they love Lyman's, what I like about those two I listed is they also have reloading instructions and.....
In addition, both companies make the widest range of bullets anyone does, and they not only have a wide bullet selection, they have a lot of powders listed to put in them.
So, you can take a bullet type from them, say a 180 Gr VLD, and use the lower end loadings for any 180 gr VLD. If you look they range up and down 5 grains or a bit more in some cases.
That information is very worth the cost of those manuals.

Caveats are listed for quality work in all of them. Those need to be paid good attention to.

A simple process done with care is about as safe as anything gets in life.

That same simple process done wrong can turn on you like a venomous snake (snap acting).

So good solid information is needed.

You can fill in with Library books, they will have a dated but very good books on the subject. We have some new tools and methods, but the basics never change.
 
Thumb placement is key for the lee loader, trust me you don't want to hit your thumb

Of coarse its a great reason to upgrade later
 
Not A manual. 2 or 3 is better. Get the latest Lyman book, also maybe ABCs of Reloading. If you intend to load for military loads such as 7.62x51 or 30-06 in the M1 or M1A, the Hornady book has the load data.

Read the reloading instructions over and over.

Once you understand the basics, the online sites such as Hodgdon have data.
 
You NEED at least one complete volume on reloading,
And you NEED at least TWO load manuals.

Your local reloading supply will often get booklets from manufacturers of powders & bullets, these are FREE and keep you apprised of new loads.
Always good to pick up and you can't beat the price!

Misprints Abound, So... ALWAYS CHECK AT LEAST TWO SOURCES!
If they more or less agree, you will probably be safe,
If there is a big descripency, get a third opinion.
The two that agree are probably safe/effective.

DO NOT -- Under ANY Curcumstances, use ANY load off the 'Internet' unless it comes directly from a powder manufacturer website!
Way too many disinformation, misinformation and outright lies posted to believe ANYTHING posted when you are new and don't know the difference between 'Warm' loads, and loads that are just plain stupid/dangerous.

Once you get some experience with this, you can try something a little out of the box, but beginners MUST stick with safe and published loads in the beginning since the learning curve is steep and mistakes can very well be killers...
 
Yup, don't reload without doing some reading and understanding of the process. You want the Lyman manual, because it shows data for a wide variety of bullets from various manufacturers. And, since I shoot a lot of Nosler bullets, I have a couple of Nosler loading books. If you like Sierra best, buy their book.

If the OP is going to reload, don't 'wing it'. Read up and do it right and safely.

And if questions need to be asked, ask us guys on the forum. Lots of experience here. I've been reloading since about 1980 or so.
 
Most of the answers in this thread are right on for a new reloader using a press and dies.
The OP said he was using the Lee loader - the loading kit in a box. There is no press just a series of steps that use bench top mandrels and a scoop. There are directions on how to use it and a list of different bullets and powders that can be used in conjunction to load ammo. One load listed for a bullet - no variations.

Reloading manuals have no, absolutely no, information that will help him in this process. All the information in the manuals is for a standard reloading setup with a press, dies, scales, trimmers and ranges of loads for every bullet listed. The only way you can get into trouble with the lee loader is by using a powder that is not listed or a bullet not listed for the powder. As long as you stick to the information provided there is no need to cross check the data.
 
So, here's the bottom line: use the Lee Loader as is, following its instructions, using its scoop and table and recommended COL and don't mess with solid copper bullets and you will be fine without much additional information.
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I hafta agree with Unclenick. Within the realm of reloading with the Lee "whack-a-mole" system, the included instructions and load data using appropriate projectiles should result in safe ammo that is probably just as accurate as most standard factory fodder. The minute you want to go beyond that, odds are, you will need more knowledge and better equipment.

Don't forget, you will need a hammer.
 
Follow up question, I have been working through the Lyman manual and I picked up a box of 165 grain nosler bt bullets. The powder suggestion and maximum loads in the Lyman manual (for this specific bullet) differ from the info from nosler. How do I decide which info to use as a basis?
 
Penny,
If the cases are the same and the only difference in the loads are the bullets then use the bullet manufacturers data. Today there are differences in bullet design and materials that can raise or lower pressures considerably.
 
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