Super Newbie Question- Do I need a manual?

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pennythedog

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I searched around a bit and didn't see this topic already on this forum and saw it answered inadequately on another forum so I thought I'd try here

I'm new to reloading but my aim is two fold

1) to save money on my rounds and not break the bank shooting 100 rounds of actual hunting ammo through my hunting rifle for practice.

2) to practice with what I hunt with. As stated above, if I am paying $2+ per round for factory ammo hunting rounds I want, I can't waste a bunch at the range.

I only have the desire to reload 30.06 rounds (I'm a simple guy) and so I bought a Lee Loader Classic in 30.06, brass (some fire formed to my rifle some new), large rifle primers, and Nosler ballistic tip and Accubond bullets. I also picked up a Digital Caliper, steel wool for cleaning the brass, and eventually will pick up a Lee Case trimmer when my current brass stretches outside of spec.

Using info online, I've discovered the specific overall cartridge length needed for my rifle to keep the bullet about .015" off the lands and know my brass length ranges for 30.06

I can't afford either financially or time-wise a new hobby, so I have no desire to develop custom loads, learn the math, or become a reloading guru, I just want to follow the recipe. Nosler bullets as I'm sure you know come with several recommendations of powder types and loads for the specific bullets you buy.

All that being said, if all I want to do is "follow the recipe" as it were and save some money, using the Nosler recommended powder and load, why do I need a reloading manual? It seems to me like the simplicity that I am seeking does not require one with only a single caliber and no desire for experimentation, but I know very little about this. Please help a new guy out with your wisdom!
 
You need a reloading manual to learn how to reload. You can always get load information online. But finding information online on how to reload is a little more difficult. Lyman's reloading manual provides good instructions on how to safely reload rifle ammo. It's worth the investment. Plus, it also has load information. Start low and work up (the ladder) is the best advised I can give you. Check and double check everything. And take your time.
 
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I have some manuals. They offer helpful advice, not just load data. If you're comfortable with what you're doing there are lots of places to get online data. To be honest, even though I own hardback manuals I almost never look up data in them anymore. I use the online sources. But I'm not sure that would have been a good idea as a beginner.

I wouldn't just use Nosler data. Some other online sources are.

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
http://alliantpowder.com/
http://www.ramshot.com/

You'll find conflicting data. Hodgdon may show a different max charge than Nosler shows. So don't let that bother you. Always start on the lower end and work up.

The best way to develop loads is simply ask what others are using. You can spend a fortune in components and time trying all the combo's listed in load manuals and still not get a great load. But if you find lots of hunters getting good results with 55-58 gr of H4350 and 165 gr Nosler bullets then chances are you'll find a good load in that range too.;)

I would never blindly try another persons exact load, but if I looked it up in a manual, online or hardback, and it were within published specs I'd start out lower than their load and work up to it. Saves a lot of time, there is no reason for every person that starts reloading to have to re-invent the wheel. I didn't tell you the exact load that I use, but somewhere between 55 and 58 gr has proven to work well for me. My manuals show 53-59 gr as minimum and maximum. You may find the exact load I use is perfect for you, but in your individual rifle slightly more or less powder than I use may be ideal.

Often you can't locate the powder you want. H4350 is hard to find right now. Rather than just randomly picking up a powder off the shelf simple ask for advice. Come back here and let us know what you can get and you'll find lots of advice. Just because H4350 has worked well for me and many others doesn't mean you can't do just as well with something else that you can actually buy.
 
When you shoot your loads (or even factory ammo) there is enough explosive pressure 5" or less from your face to maim you for life. The "recipe" is a recipe. It doesn't tell you one thing about loading safe, or creating safe loads with that recipe. You need the other information (besides the recipe) found in a manual to make sure you don't do something stupid and hurt yourself, or someone else.

You want to use Nosler.....the Nosler Manual is a good place to start.
 
Do you know how to reload .30-06? If you know all the steps and the reasoning behind them and you're only doing .30-06 you might be fine. All the powder manufacturers have their data online.

If you don't know the basics of reloading I suggest getting a manual. Lyman's #48 used to be available as a digital download online. The ABC's of reloading is also helpful.

Using random online sources can be dangerous. I'd guess that close to 20% of online forum reloading recommendations are flat out wrong. Having actual published and verified info can alleviate the stress of worrying about whether you're getting correct info.
 
No, a reloading manual is not required to reload but you also don't need to learn to drive before you get behind the wheel.

I have many reloading manuals but there is enough information on the internet where could see not needing them.

The hard part would be to find the "good" information without getting bogged down in the BS. For that a manual is nice.
 
Perhaps I misinterpret your premise...but...it you're paying $2.00 per round of .30-06, you need to frequent a different gunshop. At last look, the local Walmart and Cabelas has ought six fodder for $18 per 20 round box or less!

As to your questions regarding hand loading, you can probably find the procedural and loading data you need on line. That said, you'll need to find more than one source for that information, to be sure it is not beyond the norms of currently acceptable pressures. Both Hornady and Alliant publish loading data, and to some extent procedures on their web sites.

Minimalism is fine, to be sure, but the directions that come with your minimalist tools should be studied in detail (e.g. the original Lee Loader, Lyman's excellent 310 Tool, et. al.). Accurate powder charges, brass trimming length, etc., require fairly expensive tools...a cost that's unavoidable in my opinion. (Scales, and calipers/micrometers)

Hope it all works our for you...and BTW, this forum is a great source of information as you are starting out, and I'll predict that you'll become interested enough to purchase more sophisticated tools.

Best Regards, Rod
 
Go out and buy the Lyman manual, best there is!

That manual will take you step by step through the loading process. Also the data section made up from tested loads by Lyman, they do not gather and reprint some one else's work.
 
Go out and buy the Lyman manual, best there is!
Click to expand...

And ............ you can get it for around $10-12 bucks. I got mine on eBay for around that, shipped. Is your safety not worth $12 bucks or so...?

Good luck!
 
A chronograph is a good idea, too.
Both for working up loads and staying safe.
But it could take some time to learn how to make ammo that's anywhere as good as factory loads.
 
Using the "reloading kit in a box" You have pretty good instructions. That is what I started with. The load chart on the card gives some loads that work with the supplied scoop and that was enough to get me below 1 inch groups.
As long as that is all you want to do then you don't need a manual that tells you how to set up dies and your press. You are limited to new brass or the brass fired from your gun but you can make good ammo without all the gear that we old loaders have accumulated. As I recall the load of H4895 with 165 grain bullets was very accurate in my 3006. I get better accuracy with different powders and can select any bullet I feel the need to try but most of the bullets I have tried have fallen by the wayside and I have just a few "favorite" loads for each of my rifles.

Enjoy saving the money and taking satisfaction in your home rolled ammo that shoots better than the commercial stuff at a third the price.
 
Thanks for the advice all. Surprisingly no jerks on this forum yet. I've read a lot of forums on all kinds of stuff and this is probably the only time I've seen so many nice replies.

All good thoughts thank you! I do have a digital scale accurate to .01 grams that I forgot to mention. And I have made few dummy rounds (case prep work and bullet seating without primer or powder) that seemed to work out great and far as process goes.

I think bottom line is that I want to stay safe and am not in a hurry, so I'll start with pouring over the Lyman 48th edition that I can get for free, and then maybe purchase another manual before loading any actual rounds.

Somebody mentioned paying less for rounds at Walmart, I've shot plenty of Remington core lockts at $19/box at Wally World , I just get better results with a better quality bullet which is what i am looking for.
 
FITSC said,
I didn't see you mention a scale - if I missed that, I apologize, but you do need a scale.
Click to expand...

That's true unless you use the spoon that comes with Lee's little loader.....and the Primer/powder/bullet combo intended for that spoon.

In the 70's Lee made Lee loaders and Lee Target Loaders. I started with a .243 Win. Lee Target Loader:

IMG_0906.jpg


It said to use Win760 using the measuring spoon shown for a particular bullet and primer......and I loaded 20 with that kit.......and that's ALL I did.

Result? the first 3 went into one hole and my spotter told me I hit the paper with the first and missed the next 2. So I carefully took aim and shot 2 more.
and made a 5 shot clover leaf....my first with reloads.

Beginners luck I think, but it was so taxing of my patience to load that way I bought an RCBS Rock Chucker kit from Gander Mountain and never loaded with the Lee again...........but I remained impressed with its quality, but was too impatient with the time and effort for only 20 rounds. :rolleyes: Of course I was young. Now? I'm old and impatient so I use a progressive.
 
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Pennythedog,

If you stick to the scoop and the Lee Loader's recommended settings, you should be safe. But if you want to start tweaking loads up and down by weighing charges to weights other than those the scoop throws, then you need to learn more, including about pressure signs in particular and additional equipment costs will occur. Once you start fiddling extensively with seating depths and the like, you are wandering off of what the Lee Loader instructions define, and more information is required so you may better discern between truth and BS from Internet information sources.

For example, I don't know why you want your bullets 0.015" off the lands? That may be nowhere near the best accuracy spot for your chamber and bullet. Over the last 30 years I've head touching the lands advocated as best for accuracy (reduce your load 10% for that one, though, as it raises pressure about 20% from what it would be if you were more like 0.030-050" off the lands with a pointed, non-VLD type bullet. I've also heard 0.010" is best; 0.015" is best; 0.020" is best; 0.025" is best; 0.030" is best; 0.040" is best, and etc. It seems to have changed over time about as often as women's shoe fashion. Berger even has a tech paper relating that as much as 0.150" is best in some combinations. But for you, armed only with the Lee Loader instructions, I would stay at least 0.030" off the lands to avoid increasing pressure. Load ammo for your specific bullet is best. Using the COL and primer and case used to create the data always gets you closest.

Another thing you've missed is that if you only use a Lee loader, you likely will never need to trim cases. Cases grow primarily during the full length resizing process. You are neck sizing-only, so you won't be pushing extra brass up into the neck from the shoulder, as happens when a full length sizing die squeezes the shoulder of a case back.

So, here's the bottom line: use the Lee Loader as is, following its instructions, using its scoop and table and recommended COL and don't mess with solid copper bullets and you will be fine without much additional information. But when you start messing with changing powder charge and adjusting seating depth close to the lands, you are dealing with factors outside the realm of the Lee Loader instructions, and for that to be safe to do you need more information and probably more equipment. The fact you were unaware of these things tells me you speak the truth when you say you haven't read a loading manual.
 
We all had to start somewhere. Read the entire section of the Lyman manual. Not that much to read. But it has a wealth of information that needs some study. Pay attention to everything you do and you should be ok. Reloading is not for people who don't like to pay attention to the details.
 
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