Stuck cleaning rod.

Not sure how far it is down the barrel, but are you able to take something like a dental tool and remove bits of cloth with the point?
 
Buy an oak dowel from your hardware store, they usually come in 3’ lengths. I use these when slugging barrels. Will not damage your barrel and shouldn’t splinter.
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"Shouldn't" is not the same as "won't".
Dowels are a gamble. And an even bigger gamble when talking about a cleaning rod in the bore.

Dowels are bad, mkay.
 
if any bit of the cleaning is out of the muzzle, clamp it in a vise and pull on the stock. You might need a friend to help.
 
So I tried the brass rod to tap it out, Complete fail. The brass rod splintered the carbon fiber rod and it jammed up in the chamber. I was able to tap it back out the other way a little and the end of the brass rod fell of.

On a side note the rod went from muzzle to breach much easier than breach to muzzle.

So going forward, by plan is to build a makeshift slide hammer. A small steel pipe epoxied to the rod. a larger piece of pipe on the outside with a cap on the end and just pull it out. I will mount the muzzle device in the vise so all the pressure should be on the barrel with none on the receiver. and just pull it out.
 
Before I did that, I'd try one more thing. That prevous post about the bullet pulling jag for muzzle loaders got me to thinking. What if you could JB Weld a small drill bit to the end of a cleaning rod. Then, slowly (by hand) try and nibble away at the end of the stuck carbon rod. It would take a while, but it might eat away just enough to get you past the stuck patch.
 
Get some hardwood and bore it out to fit the barrel. Cut in half such that the halves can be placed over the barrel. Clamp in vise. Brass rod and big hammer.

Squirt oil down the barrel.

It may be better to have the barrel pointed downward. Put some carpet scrap on the floor in case the rifle falls. Pound on brass rod to drive out the rod.
 
This is not the first time such an adventure showed up here. I'd be real careful not to make things worse.
Hydraulics are generally better than hammers.
Access to a lathe or a gunsmith with a lathe will help.

What you need is a cap that will screw on to the 1/2 - 28 muzzle threads. And that cap needs to accept a grease zerk (1/16 pipe thread) or the 1/8 in pipe thread that is on the outlet tube of the grease gun. Maybe you can convince a local gunsmith he needs one in his tool box.



Turn your gas block to close the gas port.Start pumping grease in the bore.

I'd think you could generate the psi to push it out.
 
FrankenMauser said:
That will attack the metal, as well.
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But lye wouldn't. We cast iron cookware collectors use lye baths to soak cast iron in to remove old gunk and seasoning. It won't hurt steel/iron (don't use it on aluminum though) but it will dissolve anything organic - including cotton cleaning patches. It takes a while though. It would certainly be worth the try. Remove the barrel. Temporarily plug the breech end and fill the muzzle end with solution (mixed at the rate of 1lb of lye to 5 gallons of water). Then, put a really good plug in the muzzle end (plastic plug that won't get eaten by the lye), turn it over and fill the breech end. Plug that and let it sit vertically (hanging over a plastic bucket in case the plug leaks).
 
Out?

Let me suggest an idea I used successfully once.
Drill it out.
How to do this and protect the bore?
Get an extended length bit comfortably smaller than the bore that wlll reach the obstruction so that the drill rotation matches up with the direction of the rifling twist.
Create a bushing around the drill rod starting about one half inch from the bit tip. If you use tape, the wrap will be ccw. Run the bit down to the obstruction slowly.t
Take small bites out of the blockage.
Risky if you go too fast but when all else fails.
 
eflyguy said:
Which is why most drain cleaners are lye. Breaks up organic matter in short order.
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That is what cast iron cookware restorers use. You mix 1lb of lye drain cleaner to 5 gallons of water and soak your iron for a couple of weeks. It dissolves all of the grease, gunk, and old carbon seasoning. Same kind of solution in this case (but with a small amount just to fill the bore) would dissolve that patch in a few weeks.
 
Actually,if you use a grease gun,bleed as much air out of the system through the gas port as you can. Then block the port off by rotating the gas block.
 
Quick update. She's all fixed, taking her out this week to re-zero.

Ended up buying a small slide hammer for pulling dents in cars and epoxying on a coupling nut to pull it out. The patch was stuck on the gas port. All told, it ended up being about a $45 fix, but only 30 if you exclude the slide hammer.
 
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