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That sounds more like what I suspected. I'd feel better if it were free-floated all the way back to the action. However some people don't do that and get good results. Let us know how it shoots for you.
 
So what's up with your rifle. Went to the range today and had a blast. Everything, including me shot great. Except with my buddies new Mossberg bolt action 30-06. Trigger was awful. Shot one, hard pull, dead center and pulled one, long gritty not so hard pull 1" left. Didn't even feel that I had palled it. But I did. :( Rifle has potential but needs trigger work.
 
Jerry,

Tomorrow ( Friday ) is range day. I put the NF back on the rifle and bore sighted it.

I have the loads and reloads all ready to go. With any look, it will all be good.:D
 
Cool! Hope it punches one tiny hole for you.

I can ALWAYS get it to punch one tiny hole:rolleyes: It is the rest of the string that gives me fits. Is it cheating to put one on the paper and 4 in the berm?:D

I will let you know.
 
Just got back from the range. The gun is not right. The gunsmith last week told me he had some sighting rounds to get his scope zeroed and then he shot some targets. He was shooting 5 shots and he had 3 on the paper. They were ok but nothing to write home about. He showed me one group and said he must have pulled two shots.

I put a target out at 50 yards and got the scope dialed in a little high and when I had three shots pretty close together and where I wanted them, I put up some Shoot-N-C targets at 100 yards and put a 6 inch target in the middle of the little ones. Made some pretty drastic changes on the scope settings and then started shooting the small 3 inch targets.

Finally got to print on the small target and selected a clean target to try for groups.

First shot was high and to the left and off the target. Shot six more and thought I had 3 doubles in the center. Not so. Three shots and one way right and off the target and one way right and low off the target.

I took the rifle back to the gunsmith and told them to re-barrel with a Shilen or Krieger. Don't want another Douglas barrel.

The only good thing about today was a guy trying to dial in a Winchester 9422 with a scope and having no luck at all. Looks like the dovetail is not parallel to the bore. At least the scope is not parallel to the bore.

I told him I had always wanted one and he asked if I was interested in the one he had. It is a 1973 and is like new except for some freckling on the barrel. He said he had not had it long and had not yet bonded with the gun.

It is straight walnut and no checkering so I bought it from him and put the factory sight back on it. I may have over paid a little but I am happy with the rifle.

The action is MUCH smoother than my Marlin 39A and the rifling in the barrel is sweet and no signs of pitting. No dings in the stock and just a bit of blue worn off at the muzzle.

This really was an impulse buy but I am strangely mellow now. Will try it out next week with the irons.
 
I'm sorry to hear that. And this is going to sound harsh... BUT! I don't believe I'd be bring my rifle back to that gun smith(?). There are too many good smiths, several right here on this board, to be dealing with someone that can't tell me what's wrong with my rifle.

The smith that bullet my 308 told me what bullet and powder to use and gave me a start gr. on the powder. He was within 1/2 a gr. of the rifle shooting the best it can. I found a less expensive bullet that shoot just as well with 1 1/2 gr. more of the same powder. But the point being not only did he know how to put a rifle together to make it shoot he knew what components it took to make it shoot.

You gave the guy 50 rounds he shot whatever it was he shot, only got three on paper and though that was good enough to give you your rifle back? That's pathetic.

I know smiths don't like talking bad about other smiths but I'd really love to hear their opinion on this.

Again sorry to hear he can't make it right. :(
 
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When I said he had three on paper, I did not make it clear that he was using a sighting in target that has the diamond in the middle and the 4 diamonds on the corners. He had 3 groups on that paper. He had one five shot group that was actually pretty good considering they pulled an old scope from somewhere and threw it on the rifle.

What he ALSO said, was there were a couple of flyers he thought he had pulled.

I don't think they were pulled at all. What makes me think that is what I shot today.

That is what has me thinking bad barrel.

I was shooting Shoot-N-C targets today. I had the little 3 inch targets at the corners and a 6 inch target in the middle.

I had all of this on a target frame with a 36X36 inch sheet of white paper behind it so I could see where every shot went.

Once I got the rifle on the Shoot-N-C 6 inch target and zeroed, I moved to the 3 inch targets.

I was surprised that my first 3 shots were not on the smaller target.

I went back to the big target in the center and made more correction on the scope to get closer to the center and then moved back to the little targets.

The first shot on the smaller target was high left and off the target and on the paper. The next three shots were in the center. The next two shots were right and centered but off the target and the last shot was right and low off the target.

I grabbed another box of bullets that has proved very good over the years and all in new brass and these loads shot well last week in a Ruger M77V.


I shot the upper right hand Shoot-N-C and could not hit the target for 3 shots.

I gave it up and took the rifle back for work.
 
I still don't buy the barrel went bad sitting in the safe. I've been wrong before and we'll see what happens with the new barrel. I hope I'm wrong. :)
 
If it were "my gun"...

Assuming you have confidence in your smith, and that the borescope of the barrel showed no issues...I doubt it's a hardware problem.

You mentioned the receiver is bedded.

Does it have pillars installed? Without pillars, action screw torque is even more of a variable. While the action won't compress against the epoxy, the bottom metal sure will against the wood stock as the screws are torqued.

I would re-do the receiver bedding, and install pillars. Not a tough thing to do, a few hours work or so- and absent an issue with the barreled action, that's the only variable left. Grind out 1/4" or so, and have another go at it.

I'm a proponent of not using screws to hold the action in place. Electrical tape, wrapped tightly and evenly the length of the action avoids placing stress points on the action.
 
One question is, I am wondering if the gun was used in some greatly different humidity settings? Maybe stored where it is very low humidity, and was really humid weather at the range? I'm wondering is the wood isn't moving around over it, or is just starting to for some reason or another. Something doesn't sit well with me on this, as if it is bedded correctly, the action shouldn't budge, and since the barrel is floated, it shouldn't be tipping the stock at any time.
 
The latest. . . one of the guys working in the shop had a HS precision stock set up for the Rem 700 short action varmint barrel.

We dropped the gun into that stock and it still shot like crap.

The gunsmith suffered a stroke and died without ordering a new barrel.

I picked up the rifle and took it to another gunsmith and we started looking at the barrel closer. The barrel accepts a .220 in. - tolerance pin ( .2198 in. actual ) freely from muzzle to bolt face. The nominal bore for the barrel as well as I have been able to determine should be .218 in..

We are going to put a new barrel on the gun and probably not another stainless one.

I am expecting the rifle back in a week or so and we will see how that shoots.

I did not shoot hot loads through that gun at any point. I was shooting 52 gr. SMK and 38 gr. H380. They worked fine up until they did not work worth a crap.

When I get the rifle back, I have the action in a better stock, I have new glass and mounts so it should shoot fine. I am just bummed the barrel would go away at a thousand rounds.
 
Not only is it odd that the barrel would go away at a thousand rounds but also that it just went. I would have expected decreeing accuracy not just bang gone. Sounds like you're going to end up with whole new setup. Hope it's a shooter for you. Post after you put a few rounds down range.
 
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I'm with Jerry45 on this, as if it shot well beforehand, and went to pitts after putting it up for a while, it shouldn't have changed, but shot the same afterwards too. The only thing that could cause this, that I could think of, is a dirty barrel, and the time allowed the carbon/copper to settle in and dry. Also, that action shouldn't move around, at all, so you need that looked at.

Try plugging the muzzle with a patch, then fill the barrel with a good cleaner, and let it sit for a couple or three of days, then, after draining it, clean it as normal, using a brush, then a patch with a jag. I'd try this before purchasing a new barrel just yet.
 
So. . .here we are again.

Heading out to the range in a few with the rifle.

It has been glass bedded in an HS precision stock. It has a new factory chrome moly barrel. It has a new Leupold VXIII 6.5-20 in Warne rings.

I have two different factory loads and two different hand loads.

I have the rifle boresighted and will probably put no more than 15 rounds down it today. I will let you know how it does.
 
I would have slugged the barrel (like a milsurp) to get a true measurement on the groove diameter. The groove dia. could have been to spec, with "thinner" lands. I don't see how the rifling could have been worn far outta spec suddenly for such a change in performance.

Good luck with the new barrel.
 
The gunsmith got it right. After sighters, the rifle put 5 into a quarter at 100 yards.

It will shoot better with handloads.
 
This is what I shot yesterday with Winchester premium factory ammo.

Handloads should do much better. 5 shots at 100 yards.
 

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