Steel casings and your 223

[LED]

First, thank you who posted the lucky gunner test. Finally some kind of research, not the usual scholastic argument.

My concern is the extractor wear caused by more rigid casing. I have not measured it (the metal flex), so it is only an assumption that brass gives more than steel.

The better chamber seal has been mentioned with brass but I cannot attest to that.

 

[donkee]

I have a stash of the good brass cased stuff that I am hanging on to. Till this nightmare blows over and things return to normal I have only been shooting Wolf in my Stag. I got 10 cases before the "08" panic started and am now down to 3 cases.

I hate to admit it but I haven't cleaned it for about 1000 rounds and still have no real problems using Wolf. My last range outing the extractor ripped a section of rim from a cartridge but it popped right out with a light tap from a long wooden dowel. All I do is squirt a bit of lube on the bolt every now and then.

Acuracy is good for 10" steel plates to 200 yards (max at my club). I did have to put in a reduced power recoil spring for the wolf to cycle the rifle properly. My nephew has FTEs with his rifle, but he didn't get a reduced power spring yet.

All in all for the money I put down on the Wolf and figuring that I can still run to the range and shoot I am quite happy using it.

 

[bacardisteve]

I have run lots of silverbear in my saiga, ar, and rem 700 and they all run fine. For the price saved I can afford to replace an extractor more often than with brass. The tula doesn't work in my ar so I stay away from it. I shoot brass case when I'm more serious but for plinking at soda cans or what not its silverbear everytime.

 

[LED]

I have no problem shooting steel from an AR just a few at a time. My current AR though is an Anderson "no-lube." Whether the extractor is treated or not, I try to avoid premature wear because I don't want to replace any internals.

Bolt actions are not a problem. You don't have to jerk cycle. The AKs were built for steel.