Sporterizing?

Scorch
Clark- I saw a fully functional Vz24 in 223 a few years ago. I was amazed. It fed from the magazine flawlessly. I should have bought it.

As far as good rifles to sporterize, K98ks for projects are drying up, you can buy a new Remington 700 for what they bring these days. Other M98 variants may not cost so much (Brazilizn 1906s and Vz24s are still pretty cheap), and M48s are still pretty cheap. But really, what do you hope to accomplish by taking a $500 rifle and whacking off the forearm and barrel other than turning it into a $200 rifle? As others have said, find one someone else sporterized and be done with it.
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~12 years ago I saw a 223 Turk Mauser that the late Randy Ketchum of Lynnwood Guns built that had an AR15 mag welded in place. He built is custom. The guy brought it back. I was on the shelf for $150 or something like that.

He used to do gunsmithing that was over my head for $35/hour.
I had to convince him it was an interesting project.

I used to go in there, buy a pound of powder, and ask some dumb question about sporterizing Mausers. He told me that accurizing a Rem700 was the cheapest path to accuracy, only in competition with buying new Rem700s, testing the for accuracy and reselling until you find a good one.

So I have built a couple Rem700s. I don't like them as much as Mausers, 1885s or Ruger #1s, but Rem700s and Sav110s are a fast path to accuracy. Just get a premium barrel on it.
 
Intent is everything. Shooting at 500 yards is fine out west. Not so fine on the east coast. There is a big difference what people see as "Sporterized" just because of the area they hunt in. I don't even know what the OP plans on doing with this rifle. Maybe all he needs is a new stock and some better sights.
 
Ya I'm not looking to rechamber. I'm going to leave the original cartridge.
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I have a 03 Remington, the original owner was trying to sell it at a gun show in Mesquite TX. I thought it was a good thing he was not sensitive because the dealers had nothing kind to say about his rifle. I ask a dealer if it was OK for me to make an offer. Anyhow they thought Santa Fe/Golden State were bad words to find on a rifle; for that reason it seemed he would have had to pay them to take the rifle.

I purchased the rifle for $150.00, that price included two boxes of 30/06 R-P ammo that was purchased from Sears with the rifle. I needed a 03A3 type receiver for a 03A4 barrel. I took the rifle to the range with one box of the R-P ammo to test fire. I could not believe the accuracy of the rifle. I ‘lefter’ the way I founder’. I am told it is not worth much because it has been blued. I almost sent it home with my grandsons but there is a problem; it is not tapped and drilled for a scope.

I honestly believe Golden State did a magnificent job with the appearance of the rifle and the accuracy can keep up with my 1905 303 Ross.

At the same show there was talk about a presentation Mauser a dealer was asking $140.00 for. Other dealers convinced him it was worth much more because of the Big Eagle in the circle stamp on the receiver. The dealer took the rifle off of the table. About the last thing I did was make my way to the back corner table, I asked the dealer if he still had the rifle and if he did would he allow me to look at it. I suggested he sell the rifle at the first opportunity because his presentation Mauser was made by National Arms, which would be after Golden State ran out of receivers.

F. Guffey
 
I second a lot of what is said above. If it is the gun you are looking for then there are some really nice sporterized pieces to be had out there right now and for the most part they are available at good price points.

If it is the experience you are after then I would look for a Mauser. The price point is there, they have tons of parts available and one can find a boat load of literature on cutting mausers (learn from others' mistakes). They do present their own challenges but that's where you learn.

If you do decide to build, take your time and do it right. Dont cut corners or bubba one up if you can help it, I always think of it like this. One day I will be tits up in a hole and my kid will end up with my gun safes. When he is reading up on sporterized weapons of the 20th century I want him to say "Dad made a really nice piece on that 30.06" not "Dad really screwed the pooch with that old junker..."
 
Jak300gt, I have a few hand select Model 38 Turkish Mausers chambered to 8mm57, if you are interested I will sell one for $200.00. I made a visit to my favorite gun parts store, he had complete actions for sale at the same $200.00 price. That would be without the stock and without the barrel.

F. Guffey
 
Yugo M48's are available for $250, hate to modify one- but with the crazy prices now, it's cheaper to buy the entire rifle, and pull the barrel. True K98 action.

Trying to buy the parts, you'll spend much more than that.

And, that's exactly what's been happening. We've all seen perfectly fine, whole rifles being parted out- because they're worth more that way currently.
 
Yeah, that has been going on for a couple years now. It has been a long time since I saw a "Fixer-upper" at a show or auction.
 
Hi guys, new to site, sorry if this doesn’t belong here. But, here goes my question, I have a 1938 Turk Mauser I am sporterizing to a 6.5x55 Swede. I already have a m94 takeoff barrel with a good boar I am using. My question is registering bolts, I was going to have a new one welded on and buy a three position Safety, but I noticed Sarco has Dumoulin commercial bolts for $160 with Safety and bolt done. Would anyone hear know if that commercial bolt would fit the 1938 Turk action. It is a K.Kale action, my Gew98 bolt fits in it also. Any info would be greatly appreciated. This gun is going to be a short stalking gun for in woods. Thank you for any replies.
 
I don't think any action is easier than another. It's a matter of how much work you want done.

Rechambering with a new barrel with new barrel contour.
Bending the bolt handle or replacing it by welding on a new one.
Modifying or replacing the safety.
Drilling and tapping the receiver for a scope mount.
Modifying the trigger guard to make it slimmer.
Plugging any extraneous screw holes.
Removing any scratches and dings on the action.
Replacing or stoning the existing trigger.
Replacing the magazine release (if not Argie 1909) with an extended one.
Replacing or engraving the magaine floor plate.
New stock (cheekpiece if the action is scoped) with new butted (rubber? leather covered? checkered metal?), new grip cap, new fore-end with ebony or other exotic wood?. Inlayed sling swivels or is there a barrel band with a swivel?
 
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