Sporterized Mauser

Just shoot the darn thing. Like we did before the internet came along and we got timid because somebody was going to tell you that your second hand or surplus gun was probably dangerous.
 
Savage 99,

I think you misunderstood what I said. I never said recutting the chamber changed the bore diameter. Jim did a good job explaining it in his post.


The latest pic of the rifle shows the thumb slot in the action, which says to me that it was made as a military action to start with. The lack of "Mod 98" marking on the side of the action is puzzling, though.
 
Pogybait,

That "step" right in front of the receiver ring is normal for a K98 or Gew98 barrel, and the other picture shows one more obvious step just around the forend. Can you take a better picture of the barrel from the top? It is irrelevant to the bore diameter, but I'm curious.

As a side note, the standard step just in front of the receiver ring means your rifle was likely not one of the rarer "Machine Gun Barrel" variants seen in later war production.

44 AMP,

I know that some bcd coded k98s with Nazi proofs did not have the MOD.98 stamped on the side rail at least for the 1939 and 1940 year productions. So I think it is likely a 1939 or 1940 Gustloff reciever.

Jimro
 
Jim Watson, perfect answer - just shoot the darn thing.

Jimro, I will do a photo of the barrel at the top and post for you.

Does anyone have a clue as to the value of this rifle with the scope?

I made a comment earlier about seeing only one other rifle similar to this one but without the scope. It did have the claw mounts. This gun was on consignment at Green Mountain Guns in southwest Denver metro. I was standing next to a man who purchased the rifle. I made a comment to him that I have the same rifle AND the scope. I thought the dude would have an organism trying to get me to sell the scope.
 
It has Nazi proof marks, if the barrel is original to the rifle, it is .323, full stop.

Are there any markings on the barrel? Most Nazi era barrels had a proof mark, possibly a serial number, and a manufacturer code.
 
emcon5,

I've never separated the stock from the receiver/barrel so I don't know what's on the bottom side of the barrel. I could separate these two pieces but I'm not sure if I should mess with the old style slotted screws. The one in front of the floor plate has another smaller slotted screw that looks like a lock screw. The one behind the guard does not have the second screw. Also, I don't know if a regular slotted screw driver would be ok to remove these screws. I believe there are specialized gunsmith screwdrivers for this purpose.

On the right side (shooter's view) at the very end of the barrel is a symbol that resembles an upper case K. The part of the K that runs northeast to southwest is slightly curved forming a sort of cup. This could possibly be two lower case "u"s with one inverted on top of the other. This is the only marking I see on the barrel.
 
Pogybait,

The value of your rifle is whatever you can get for it, so sporters are very difficult to price, but those old 4x sniper scopes are generally going for 300 to 600 on ebay. The fact that the claw mounts mate to your receiver is a plus, that's rather rare for rifles of that era.

Because it is in good condition, and because the action is in period correct configuration for a sniper rifle, someone wanting a sniper rifle would just have to get a milsurp stock and barrel to make it period correct if not original. So there would be interest from that sort of buyer.

Because the action hasn't been scrubbed, and there are no import marks, that also raises the value a bit.

But because it was sported, that actually lowers the value a tad, people buy rifles not stories. I wouldn't sell it myself, but if I had to build a rifle in the same configuration I'm looking at (back of the napkin math here) 200 dollars for an action, 100 for a decent barrel, 100 for the stock, 100 to 200 for claw mounts, and 300 or so for the scope. Not including any labor for aftermarket iron sights that's 800 to 1,000 just in parts. I doubt you'd get that at auction unless you found someone who just loves old Mauser sporters.

Jimro
 
Jimro,

I have no plans to sell the rifle. I have no children of my own so it's going to my brother's older son. I want to keep it in the family.

I haven't forgotten your request for photos of the end of the barrel. I'll do that later today.
 
Pogybait,

Thank you, that looks like an unturned K98 barrel that had sporter sights put on. 0.323 bore almost certainly. I missed the forward step in the other picture, my eyes must be getting old....

Thanks for posting the pics.

Jimro
 
Pogybait,

Yes, the steps of the barrel look like they were were left in stock mil contour, not turned to a sporter profile.

The reason for the steps instead of a taper contour has to do with how the barrel heats up. When metal heats it expands, and if a military barrel were tapered it would be like a splitting wedge that would eventually cause the stock to split as the metal spreads it apart. By going with a straight taper with reduction steps, the only part of the stock that needs a relief cut is the portion just in front of the steps.

The old myth about the steps having to do with barrel harmonics is just an oft repeated lie, but one that will never seem to die. But since civilian sporter barrels are generally taper contoured people thought to invent reasons for the steps, and without thinking that a Mauser rifle would shoot hundreds of shots in a single engagement people jumped to the conclusion that it had to do with accuracy instead of stock longevity.

Jimro
 
Jimro,

I like the steps. I think it makes the rifle unique. Thanks for the information.

Next week, I'm sending this rifle to my nephew. I mentioned earlier I have no children (only a wonderful step daughter) so he's the one who gets it. He is very excited. Because neither my nephew nor myself are experts on this rifle, I've copied and pasted into a Word file all of the information you've sent me. I will include this in the box with the rifle. You have provided me more information than anyone, ever.

My father is no longer alive. I wish like crazy I had picked his brain about this rifle more than I did. The only thing I ever asked him was, "how did you get the rifle." His response was always, "I liberated it." I think that say a lot. When he got this one, he also got a sporterized Mauser with a Mannlicher stock. He later traded it, a single shot 22 pistol, and his old rabbit ears 12 ga. shotgun for a new shotgun. When I began hunting deer in Texas while in high school, he made the comment he wished he had never traded the other Mauser. He said it could have been my rifle. I too wish that rifle could have been mine.
 
I think we all wish we could have spent more time with loved ones before they live only in our hearts and memories.

Glad I could help a bit, I hope your nephew appreciates the history. Tell your nephew to only shoot modern sporter ammunition, not because the rifle is fragile but because most of the cheap milsurp ammo leaves corrosive primer residue and sometimes the bullets have a mild steel jacket that can accelerate bore wear. The corrosive salts can be washed away, but it only takes one careless trip to rust up the rifling in the bore.

Jimro
 
Back
Top