Spinning Bullet in Brass Case?

[Unclenick]

It's still not clear to me from your reply if the old primers were fired or unfired. But it sounds like you are on your way to success, and that's what matters.

Redding makes great products, and they charge for the care they put into them. I tend to use them selectively for that reason, for things I just can't get from anybody else that is equal quality. I do the same with other makers. At opposite ends of the budget spectrum, for bottleneck rifle reloading, I find the combination of the Redding Body Die and the Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die impossible to beat for concentricity and minimum neck working. Reloading can make for some odd bedfellows.

 

[USSR]

jetblueshooter,

You really, really need to buy a reloading manual such as those made by Lyman and read it before jumping into reloading. While there are nuances that come up when reloading, what you have just described is on page one of Reloading 101.

Don

 

[Aguila Blanca]

The Primers - Yes you are right, I skipped the de-priming/resizing die because of two reasons (1) to save money on primers, and (2) I did not know that this die did any resizing. So, I think 44AMP and Unclenick you guys referred to a better idea -- I could have simply removed the depriming pin from that die and left the old primer in there until I got everything set, and then put it back in. But going forward on new setups that's a great idea.

Why remove the decapping pin? If you want to test your setup loading dummy rounds, you can do that with decapped cases. Just don't prime during your reloading process. I assume you're also not charging these test rounds with powder -- right?

 

[jetblueshooter]

Thanks Guys -

@USSR --> You are right, I need to find one of those books.

@Aguila --> Yes, I tried that and I had failures with the bullet (did not use powder etc). At the time I thought that it was because the primer left a hole for the air to be pushed out, thus losing compression. So, I decided to leave the primer in during testing. Now, looking back at all that I have learned here, maybe it would not have made a difference.

 

[Aguila Blanca]

@Aguila --> Yes, I tried that and I had failures with the bullet (did not use powder etc). At the time I thought that it was because the primer left a hole for the air to be pushed out, thus losing compression. So, I decided to leave the primer in during testing. Now, looking back at all that I have learned here, maybe it would not have made a difference.

No, it would not have made a difference. Loaded cartridges are not sealed airtight. When I make dummy rounds I always use unprimed brass.

The issue with dummies is that, when they're used often enough to test how different pistols sycle, eventually the bullets start getting shoved back, no matter how tightly the case grips the bullet. To alleviate that, I put short lengths of wood dowel in the cases under the bullets. The lack of a primer in the hole makes no difference at all.

 

[HiBC]

HEY! Jetblueshooter!!

We aren't born knowing this stuff! I started loading when I was about 16. No Dad or other mentor around.I'm 68 now,haven't blown anything up.

We all start by wandering a path. At least you think!! And you ask questions,AND,you are willing to learn !! Thats good.

Fortunately,as has been mentioned,there is no need to re-invent the wheel.

The manufacturers of reloading components have a serious interest in your safety and success. They make really good reloading manuals.

I have not used them all. I've seen the Lyman and Lee's ABC's of Reloading recommended.I never tried those.I'm sure they are great!! Seriously study the process of reloading.

Myself? I like having the handbook of my primary powder supplier. That would be Hogdon.

I also like to have the handbook of my bullet manufacturer. I use Nosler,Sierra,and Hornady. Yes,I've used Speer,and someplace I have an old one of those.

The bullet specific ones give tested data that works with the bullet you bought from them.

All of the manuals walk you through safe reloading process.

Hogdon emphasizes powder. They sell a magazine format annual that is useful.It has new powders in it.

Lyman has a cast bullet handbook,I believe.

The component outfits have websites. Hogdon offers load data,Hornady offer an easy ballistic software,etc.

I will leave you with one Gold Nugget.
The most likely way to wreck a gun and get hurt badly is to load a double charge of powder,or load the wrong powder.

Just my opinion here,but powders like Bullseye are high energy and they don't take up much space. Don't get me wrong,they are economical and they often perform very well, but I like a charge that fills the case enough that when I visually check my powder levels before I seat bullets,a double charge at least catches my eye.

If you ever load a rifle case up with a rifle charge weight of pistol or shotgun powder,you will wreck a gun and probably get hurt.

It is imperative you have routines that you follow every time,with redundancies to make sure that never happens.

Only one powder on the bench.Period. If you find unidentified powder in your powder measure hopper,don't guess. Its fine lawn fertilizer!

Check your load book carefully! 4198 is not 4895!! Then read the label on your powder. Twice. Your brain will be more engaged if you read it aloud. Might seem silly,but that as SOP in a Chemistry lab I was in once.

OK,enough. Welcome!