Spent all of my ammo money

Everyone has their own way of doing things and you can see by the responses on this board, well, the list can go on forever. So, here's my 2 cents; stop buying stuff. When your manual arrives, read it, more than once. The suggestion to review u-tube videos is a very good one, as many as you can. Lee also has it's own videos to teach you how to use their equipment, check out their site. The instructions that accompany the kit you purchased is more than adequate as well, in terms of set up. If you happen to have a friend or two who load, go hang out with them and see what their processes are. If not, see if your range offers re-loading classes, if not, check out the NRAs' website for classes that might be in your area.

At this stage of the game you need to master "process" and "safety." Do not rush into or through anything that you will be doing. You need to understand that loading takes time and care in order to have success and safety before you hit the firing line. When you decide to add a rifle to your repertoire, your time at the bench will extend further and will require even more attention to detail and time spent in preparation. As you gain experience it will come to you what part of your equipment inventory you like and what part is a pain that you wish to do away with. Search TFL on your topic and see what others have done, what they like and don't, which will save you money in the long run. Do your research before you make your next purchase. You have the basics and they will get you in the door. What you spend next will simply help you refine your process and increase your comfort zone. A simple example; that beam scale that comes with the kit, same as the one that came with mine 3 years ago and it's the only one I have. I'm happy with it because it works and I can see no reason to spend money on something different, i.e. I can spend my money on something else I really want or need.

Ask as many questions as you wish. Search the TFL when you have questions as many have already been answered. The people who occupy this space are fantastic. There is never a dumb question with the people here, except the question that isn't asked, but should have.

Take care. Good luck. Take your time and above all, be safe.
 
Ok, looks like I will put a scale at the top of the list. I will give the one in the kit the good ole college try first. :)

Watch the places that sell reloading stuff, they will get small booklets from the powder suppliers, and they are exactly the right price- FREE!
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Nice - will look out for these!

So, here's my 2 cents; stop buying stuff. When your manual arrives, read it, more than once.
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I like the way you think sir! Since my wife has Amazon Prime, I was able to "borrow" for free " The ABCs of Reloading" by C. Rodney James. I am giving that a good read. My Lyman 49th also arrived, I will pick that up as soon as I am done with this.

At this stage of the game you need to master "process" and "safety."
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I couldn't agree more, after I started reading the ABCs of reloading, I went out and bought some plastic bullet trays - his stories about double charges and proper safety processes - coming from a person who blew up his hands assembling a pipe bomb at 15 - I am reading his words carefully...

What they don't know won't hurt YOU.
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My wife knows all - its better this way. I don't have to hide the $2 bills after a weekend out.
 
I'll bite. What's the magnet for?
The Lee scale will do nicely. You don't need a digital. They're just easier to read.
Don't even think Metric when reloading. Doesn't apply.
"...My Lyman 49th also arrived..." Read it. The reference chapters are a good read by themselves, but will also answer a lot of terminology questions that'll come up.
You really do not want to tumble 9mm and .45 cases at the same time. The 9mm will fit into .45 cases. Comes out easily, but it's a pain. Everywhere.
Berry's Bullets are plated. Plated bullets are not jacketed. They use cast bullet data.
 
Congrats, learn to reload with what you have. The equipment you bought will serve you well. Since you are reloading for pistol calibers, sooner or later you will find the need for higher production. The next step is to go to the Lee Classic Turret, and then a progressive machine (pick your color). If you started this hobby to save money, don't be surprised if you don't. However you will be able to shoot lots more on the same budget. Since you are loading 45, read the sticky at the top of this section, it will help you with the plated bullets as well. don't be afraid to use cast, but look into the coated bullets, less costly than plated or jacketed. Good luck, and read this forum and don't be afraid to ask questions.
 
On a side note, someone suggested for me to get a Lee Decapper, and deprime my brass before stainless tumbling. (That I don't want to run dirty brass through my resizing die.)

Would you agree or can I - do people tumble brass without de-capping in stainless media?


I'll bite. What's the magnet for?
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The magnet is to help pick up the stainless media.

Berry's Bullets are plated. Plated bullets are not jacketed. They use cast bullet data.
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:eek: Thank you for pointing out this very important piece of information that I overlooked. Thank you for teaching me that plated is not the same as jacketed. I will continue my research.


P.S. Note to self - when you see bricks of S&B Primers for $20, buy more than one brick because an entire shelf will be sold out within 48 hours.
 
As stated previously, what you have procured is sufficient to begin working. You do not need a separate decaping die. (If we were talking about rifle I would advise differently) Once you read through the loading manuals and step through a few videos you'll need to create a process that works for you.

Below is an example of a process, my personal routine for 9mm, 38 and 357. You're going to get a number of opinions about "how," each dedicated to efficiency and safety. It's simply a question of what works for you and how you wish to dedicate your time at your bench.

Home after an outing to the range;
1. Sort brass looking for defects; cracks, separation. (Save your bad brass as you can sell for scrap)
2. Mount your dies and de-prime/resize, expand (Save the spent primers, also scrap for sale)
3. Clean brass and inspect again
4. Store for reloading at a later date (cat litter tubs, coffee containers, any large container will do)

Loading;
1. Retrieve brass and inspect
2. Prime brass
3. Check the balance of the scale (every time you begin a loading session, no exceptions)
4. Fill powder dispenser. CRITICAL: Leave the powder you are going to use on or near your bench and remove everything else from the immediate work area. This way you remove any risk of mixing/mistaking the powder you are using. NEVER mix powders.
5. Determine powder grain and adjust powder dispenser accordingly
3. Test a powder drop on the scale, re-validate
4. Fill your cases
5. Check to make sure you actually "dropped" into the case AND validate that you haven't "double dropped" accidentally. When in doubt, dump the powder back in the dispenser and drop again.
5. Mount your die and seat a bullet.
6. Measure OAL of your round with a caliper (check your manual, which will tell you the minimum OAL required)

As you start out you should always load your rounds at the low end of the powder range, increasing by +.1. Do your best to stay away from max at this stage. I strongly suggest you move to the middle of the range of your data as your "max" load as you work your way up. You want success in your work, not extreme power at this point in the process. Also, loading at max can shorten the life of your barrel. You'll have plenty of time to play after you master the basics and gain a level of comfort.

A few notes regarding OAL, and you will find many entries on the board.
1. Not every chamber is the same size.
2. The various manufacturers of brass do not have an exact standard. When you measure brass and compare against others and your load data, you will find they vary by tenths of an inch.
3. When you mix your brass and load, you'll notice that the OAL will vary for each of your respective rounds.
4. Bullets are not uniform in size, at least not lead cast. Thys, your OAL will vary here as well.
5. What is important with OAL is that you are within a safe range. Your rounds do not need to be a precise size. They simply need to fit your barrel (those loading precision rounds for hunting and/or competition, especially bench rest, will differ with this statement and for their purposes, they are correct in their objection)

Look for posts on the subject "plunk test." There is a graphic that you should print and keep at your bench when you begin. Later on you'll know what you are looking for and won't need it. You should field strip your gun and use the barrel to test the fit of the round (the plunk test). The graphic will show what is right and wrong as the round fits into the barrel. You will also become accustomed to the sound it makes when you drop the bullet into the barrel. The plunk test does not negate the OAL test with your caliper, do both.

Good luck.
 
(Save the spent primers, also scrap for sale)
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I would not have thought to safe spent primers, thank you!


Look for posts on the subject "plunk test."
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I noticed this referenced on another post and did just this! I copied the Shooting Times article and put it in my binder with the loading notes I intend to keep. Thanks for bringing this up, I appreciate it!



I picked up a 2016 Hodgdon's Annual Reloading Manual as well today.

I like your SOP MarkGlazer, I will take a look at yours and others and setup a Standard Operating Procedure that works for me; safety first!
 
Slow down! You already have more than you need to start reloading, but I'd suggest more literature before you pull a handle. The ABCs of Reloading, Lyman's 49th, and a manual from a bullet manufacturer (if you choose Hornady bullets, get a Hornady manual. Sierra bullets = Sierra manual, etc.). Read them (The ABCs + the "how to" sections of the Lyman and bullet manuals). Not only for how and why about reloading but what equipment is needed for your reloading needs.). Read 'em again.

Having been a machinist/mechanic all my life I prefer analog measuring devices over digital, and have "paid the price" for incorrect numbers popping up in a display. With dial calipers you see a needle approaching a measurement and with a scale you see the beam pointer nearing the hash mark for zero. There is nothing wrong wth a Lee scale except some can't/won't learn how to read a vernier scale. It's the only scale I know of with a locking poise, a safety measure. Yep it's slower to center than a digital, but if you're in a hurry, rethink reloading altogether.

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
plated bullets

Many people say not to load plated bullets to jacketed load data but if you go on Rainier's and Berry's web site they both recommend using jacketed or lead load data so long as you use the correct weight bullet data. I use Rainier 115 grain plated rn bullets with mid range jacketed load data. Never have had any signs of high pressure. I always work my loads up from starting to where they function reliably in my guns. My best functioning and accurate load is Rainier's 115 grain rn with 5.6 grains of unique. I'm currently working up a load using HP38.
 
Got my station set up... Apartment living...! I start my first reloads tomorrow, cases have been segregated.

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I think my first run went well, a lot of learning and double checking everything, see attached files for my first run, for my first run I loaded 25 rounds.

45 ACP

Powder: Hodgdon CFE Pistol
Primers: Winchester Large
Bullet: Berrys Bullets 230GRN RN .452"
COL: 1.200"

Hodgdon 2016 Annual Data: COL: 1.200"

Starting: 5.4 Grains - 816 FPS - 14,600 PSI
MAX: 6.2 Grains - 942 FPS - 20,100 PSI

5 of each of the following:

5.4 Grains
5.6 Grains
5.8 Grains
6.0 Grains
6.2 Grains
 

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Pietro,

Lately, I've become a huge fan of case gauges. I have them for all the calibers I load. These are excellent for determining if your case (rifle or handgun) will fit in your weapon after re-sizing. They also determine whether head space is correct.

You can use the chamber of your weapon but these small gauges fit in your hand and are way more convenient, not to mention safer than handling a firearm. Lyman makes one out of a block of aluminum that sizes eight handgun calibers. You can buy individual gauges for around $25.
 
I really have a crimping question. I bought the four die deluxe set from Lee.

When using the factory crimp die, I placed a round on the shell holder and fully extended the ram. I then screwed in the crimp die, and tightened down the adjustment until I felt resistance with the bullet head. I lowered the ram, then turned tightened the crimp adjustment 1/2 turn.

This is the method I used for my crimp. Its a very very slight crimp and there was very little resistance when crimping my rounds.

Did I crimp enough?
 
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