So why do you folks like the SS ROA

They are practical working guns that are precision made. They probably have just about the closest chamber to bore tolerence of any moderately priced C&B revolver made. I don't know if that's because it's American made or not. But unlike any of the Italian guns, it wasn't reverse engineered in order to produce them. It's an original design and not a direct clone of any other previously made gun that required that it be reverse engineered.
In that respect, it's the only original C&B revolver gun on the market that was recently made that wasn't reverse engineered. The only other alternative for owning an original C&B revolver is to buy an original C&B revolver. And many of us aren't interested in shooting those old guns or want to spend all of the money that it would cost for one.
Too many of them have been socked away as collectables to satisfy everyone's desire to not shoot a reproduction.
I believe that most people are proud that the Old Army isn't a reproduction, but rather represents the modern evolution of what a C&B design could have been had the C&B era not ended due to the invention of primed cartridge cases. The evolution of C&B revolvers seemed to come to a stand still at that time until Bill Ruger decided to design his Old Army C&B revolver which he introduced in 1972.
Just like a lot of his guns it has garnered semi-classic status in a relatively short amount of time.
Asking what folks like about it is a lot like asking why do folks like their favorite Ford Mustang model, Corvette Sting Ray, Chevy Camaro, Dodge Charger or Oldsmobile 442.
All I know is that folks love them for whatever reasons that there are. They're strong, powerful, well-built, good handling and fairly affordable.
I can't say that the originals were any better or worse, it's all a matter of personal taste and folks vote with their wallets.
The world-wide popularity of the Ruger Old Army certainly can't be denied. That doesn't mean that everyone needs to like them, or like them enough to buy one. But I think that there are certainly more folks that admire them than own them. And I think that among C&B shooters, that there are more folks that like them than don't like them. Unless a person is only interested in historical re-enactment or shooting original guns, then what's not to like?
We all know that the Italian reproductions aren't originals and not the same as originals. Yet not many folks insist on only shooting originals.
I look at it as it's just part of the evolution of gun design.
Just like major league baseball has undergone changes and evolved over time. The pitcher's mound isn't the same height in either league as it used to be. And modern baseball gloves don't look anything like the designs that they used to be. Or catcher's equipment, or batting helmets, or the dimensions of the ball fields or artificial turf or the use of night lights. But I can't recall anyone ever saying that they don't like baseball anymore because of the modern evolution of these changes.
I think that only liking reproduction guns is mostly due to the organizations that promote historical correctness and only allow the use of historically acceptable guns in their competitions and events. But for those of us who aren't members of those groups or ever have been, then all C&B's are created fairly equal and are made to work reliably, shoot well and to have fun with.
I like watching baseball, I like both old and new cars, and I like all C&B revolvers. That doesn't mean that I would buy them all. But each individual likes what they like. It's just like picking out a spouse I guess. Love and emotions is what makes people tick. Not much else that I can explain about why I or so many other folks like the ROA.
 
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I am not a big fan of Stainless Steel (SS) but would like to someday get my hands on a SS ROA just because it is the 'last word' on BP revolvers. Truly the best BP guns that were ever made. I have a Blued ROA and really like it. I have some 1851s, a Remington, 1860s, but the ROA is the 'best'.... just not 'period' correct.
 
There is an old time baseball league here in mid-Michigan every summer. They play the authentic game rules in authentic (albeit reproduction) uniforms, using authentic-designed equipment. Some of them have been heard to say that they don't like baseball anymore because of the 'new rules.'

To each their own...
 
From what I've seen, experienced and read, the ROA design was based on the Rogers & Spencer .44. If you've ever handled an original R&S and a ROA, you'd probably agree.
 
robhof

As said above"AMERICAN made", I've got 2 and shoot them both quite alot, in fact they have become my favorite range guns and I've even hunted with them. I have others both B/p and modern, revolvers and autos, but have learned the fun of B/p and ease of cleaning the SS guns, even in the dish washer on occasion.:):rolleyes:
 
Maybe the loading lever or other details resemble the R&S, but the shape and feel of the ROA's grip is totally different.
And the Blackhawk frame was already designed and doesn't seem to resemble the R&S frame either.
 
The ROA is fairly tough, good looking and shoots well. It is not my favorite shooter. The '58 is more fun. But, the ROA is special to me. There are no new ones being made. Modern design meets old time function. Made here in the states by American workers. And hey, I like blued guns, but stainless sure is rugged and easy to care for, a bit more forgiving than blued steel. My ROA is the only SS gun I own. Certainly won't be the last.
And yes the loading lever is not the best.
 
Just bought one and waiting for it to arrive. Hope the storm does not delay it too much. What is a good load for plinking/target shooting? I am not trying to test it's limits.
 
When I shoot them in CAS, to conserve powder I use just enough to give a full stroke of the ram when seating the ball. Right off, I don't remember how much that is though, lol.
 
jlb43

What is a good load for plinking/target shooting? I am not trying to test it's limits.

You asked so here it is. Ruger ROA's are NOT like any other BP pistol. A completely different animal. They were designed for hunting and will shoot 50gr. of BP. They will BARK!

The cylinder is tapered. (Bigger at the end, smaller the further you ram the ball in). Ruger did this to ease the user in case a round won't fire. In that event, pull the nipple, dig the powder out with a toothpick and push the ball out with a dowel. (I use a golf Tee cut square across the pointed end). I also use the other end to seat the Wonder Wads and also to seat the caps after using a capper (DON'T use your thumbnail)! Works perfect.

They like .457 round balls. They do also like Lee designed conical's, however I've NEVER seen a competition won using the Lee's. (In many cases, they are not allowed). For hunting, they're excellent!

28 to 30 gr. of BP is sufficient up to 50yds. However for maximum accuracy, don't just put the powder in and ram the ball home. You are very likely to get "ball creep". Meaning, by the time you take a few shots, the balls in the UN-spent chambers will work their way out towards the barrel (from recoil) and you may not be able to advance the cylinder.

It is imperative to load with the 28gr. (whatever) amount of powder, wonder wad on top of that, then load the rest of the cylinder full of cornmeal. When you ram the balls in, this concoction will compress. Seat the ball just far enough so the cylinder will spin free and none of the balls hit the barrel on their way around.

I use real BP for numerous reasons. Goex is fine, Swiss is even better (3f), but their is compaction differences between the two. Swiss doesn't compact as much as Goex. With real BP, compaction is everything. If you use some other powder, ALWAYS follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For instance, T7 recommends little to no compaction at all. I've also been experimenting with 2f in this pistol. Honestly, there's a bit less peak pressure and seemingly a touch more consistency in throwing the ball to the target. Too early to say for sure, a bit more testing is required.

I did not come up with this formula. It is common knowledge among serious ROA shooters.

Give this a try, let me know how you do and good luck!

Birch
 
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Forgot to mention...

If/when you get "ball creep" in any gun, it creates post-compaction airspace between the powder and ball. This must be avoided at all cost! It can be downright dangerous!

B
 
I have never had "ball creep", at least not in my ROA. I load 40-45 grs FFFG with Bore Butter or Crisco over the top of the ball. Once or twice, in my Walker, the ball was sucked back out when the rammer was removed - this was due to too much lube and too deep of a bevel in the tip of the rammer.
The bevel at the chamber mouths is called chamfer. Sam Colt devised it as a way to deflect the gasses from the firing chamber away from the adjacent ones.
You cannot test, or push, the limits of a ROA with black powder.
Like I said before, in my opinion (and several others that I've read) the ROA's design is very similiar to the Rogers & Spencer in it's feel, hammer cock, etc.
Great gun. Great shooter. Best built BP revolver ever made. But due to it's several small springs and parts, I don't think it would have been very popular back in the day.
 
ROA load as per an expert on the matter

I am reading a book by Dennis Adler titled: " Black Powder Revolvers - Reproductions and Replicas " that he wrote in 2008.
On page 141 he has published recommended loads for a half a dozen specific gun variations, and he presents the ROA and A Walker .44 Colt as contemporary of each other. His "conservative" load for both handguns with an intention to reduce wear and tear & provide the most consistant accuracy is:
40 gr. of Goex FFFg -and- using the same spout for measuring the Goex by weight will allow the proper measure of Pyrodex by volume of 40 gr. , either propellent to be followed by a lubricated wad and a .455" or larger round ball.
His maximum for these guns is listed as 60 gr. Goex FFFg and 40 gr. of Pyrodex.

The aforementioned is just reported as written in the book as described.
 
I'd say a .44 Dragoon is much closer to a ROA than a Walker as far as powder capacity, weight, etc.
Yeah, 60 grs in a ROA is not possible.
 
I believe that Ruger intended to create the rings inside the ROA's chambers for the purpose of preventing ball creep. AFAIK the chambers of other C&B revolvers don't have such pronounced rings left on their walls.

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His "conservative" load for both handguns with an intention to reduce wear and tear & provide the most consistant accuracy is:
40 gr. of Goex FFFg -and- using the same spout for measuring the Goex by weight will allow the proper measure of Pyrodex by volume of 40 gr. , either propellent to be followed by a lubricated wad and a .455" or larger round ball.
His maximum for these guns is listed as 60 gr. Goex FFFg and 40 gr. of Pyrodex.

So 40 grains of Pyrodex is both the conservative load and the maximum load???
 
My 1851 Pietta has rings inside the cylinders. Several of my Piettas do, in fact.
But I never knew why. I just thought it was machining marks.
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