So I was given a muzzleloader..

oKay im not sure if i just did something bad.. I ran some white tee shirt pieces (aka my patches) down the barrel using the rod and the little attachment and about 75 percent of the way through it seems to encounter some resistance.. I put a little more force behind it and it goes all the way to the bottom of the barrel.. Did that a few times, no problem.. This time, it goes in like usual, hits some resistance, i put a little muscle into it, and it goes all the way down.. Now its time to pull it out.. its not budging... its stuck... I pulled it very hard and it came out but I can feel little grits of metal or something on the patch.. All the other times I did this, there was just some brownish liquid (I think its oil but it feels pretty watery) is it from the barrel? Gunpowder? i'm not sure what just happened but i hope i didnt mess anything up.. Shouldnt there be zero resistance? (especially 3/4 of the way in only)
 
Uh-oh, sounds like the previous owner left the barrel uncleaned after shooting it.

This may be a perfect opportunity to buy one of Green Mountain's legendarily accurate target barrels for this rifle. In fact, a lot of people who compete in muzzleloading matches look for TC Hawkens with neglected barrels just to get a stock on which to put one of Green Mountain's barrels on.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/TableList.aspx?catID=14&subID=142&styleID=491
 
It may still shoot and may smooth out with use. The thing about the stock barrel is that it has shallow button rifled grooves and a "compromise" 1 in 48" twist which is too fast for optimum patched roundball shooting and too slow for optimum bullet shooting.

The aftermarket barrels feature no compromise patched round ball twist rates or no compromise bullet twist rates if that's what you want.

I shoot offhand muzzleloading rifle matches mostly and I replaced my stock .45 caliber barrel with a .36 caliber Green Mountain patched round ball barrel and never looked back. These barrels have bores that are so polished that even a bore sized roundball surrounded by a patch just slides downbore with gentle ramrod pressure once started.
The firing line at Friendship is full of TC Hawkins with GM barrels in them.
 
Ok that makes sense. I guess what im wondering now is what was that material coming out of the barrel? Was it from the barrel itself? powder muck?
 
Garyson1311 said:
Ok that makes sense. I guess what im wondering now is what was that material coming out of the barrel? Was it from the barrel itself? powder muck?
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It sounds like it has a serious corrosion problem and what was being pulled out is rust and/or scale.

Scale is:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scale said:
Fouling, buildup of unwanted substances, sometimes called "scale", on hard surfaces, such as the inside of a pipe
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It could be a combination of powder residue and rust. Who knows what the liquid is. Maybe the previous owner put some kind of oil or solvent down the bore to try to loosen up the scale.
Maybe you could ask him.
Anyway the condition of the bore sounds terrible, and is probably the reason why he gave it away.
 
From the looks of the pics of the neglected nipple area and from what going on inside the bbl. this would be my process to see if bbl was salvageable.

I'd remove the bbl. and get me a cheap, plastic wallpaper tray(they are long, your bbl should fit in one). Place bbl in tray and pour ATF(automatic transmission fluid) to cover bbl. completely. Let soak for a day or so, remove and use a bore brush in bore and around nipple. Let soak some more and repeat brushing.

I'd keep doing this till all rust/corrosion was removed from bbl. and nipple area.

Run some dry patches through bbl and using bore light, check to see how bad the pitting is. If you determine bbl. is usable, you can start on removing nipple.
If the shoulders on the nipple aren't corroded badly, use a nipple wrench. If nipple wrench won't fit ,try using small vise grips. If nipple breaks off, then removal can get tricky as you will have to carefully drill remaining nipple out being careful not to drill into bbl threads. The soaking in the ATF will help with loosening the nipple so if the nipple wrench doesn't work, you may try more soaking before attempting the vise grips.

After bbl. cleaning, inspection and nipple replacement, you determine you want to give the old bbl. a try, run some TC #13 bore cleaner soaked patches through bbl. Run a few dry patches through. Load and shoot.

Your bbl. may now be in rough shape and not ready for competitive shooting but you just won't know its accuracy till you get it cleaned and shoot it.

Also, if you work on this bbl. or get a new one, when you install the nipple, place a very small amount of 'Permatex anti-seize' compound on threads of nipple insuring not to get any in or around nipple flash-hole. This makes for future removal when repeating cleaning easier.
 
Count yourself lucky !!!

its stuck... I pulled it very hard and it came out but I can feel little grits of metal or something on the patch..
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If you go back and read my previous reply, you will notice that I listed the use of a lubricated patch. This is preferred, over a dry patch as dry patches in unknown bores, makes for stuck ram-rods. ... ;)

Will be back for more but you do have a problem barrel and again, to confirm, you do have a Pre-Stamped TC Hawken model. ... ;)


Be Safe !!!
 
The only thing for it is to pour boiling water in that barrel and work on it with a bristle brush and patches until it comes clean.

Then buy yourself a tiny AAA flashlight and drop it down the barrel and see how it looks.

Ultimately, it doesn't really matter how it looks, what matters is how it shoots. :)

Steve
 
Thanks for the responses.

Shortwave, this is probably a dumb question but it will help me understand what I need to do... What does bbl mean? Also, I am definitely going to give it a thorough cleaning and inspection. Thanks for the tips. Im not looking to get into competition, just looking to try punching some paper at the range for some old shooting feel. I just want to make sure it doesnt blow up!

Pahoo, the patch was sprayed with breakfree and kept coming out black/brown but started getting cleaner. It got stuck twice and thats where I pulled the junk out of it. Definitely looks like a prestamped hawken.. Any idea on age?

maillemaker, you are absolutely right and the idea about the flashlight is genius! I will try the various methods you guys have given me for cleaning. Thanks a million!

Oh hey, basspro only had metric nipples... Im assuming this gun uses standards?
 
posted by Pahoo:

If you go back and read my previous reply, you will notice that I listed the use of a lubricated patch. This is preferred, over a dry patch as dry patches in unknown bores, makes for stuck ram-rods...;)
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^^^This is experience talking.^^^

You don't want to run a dry patch down a bore unless you know the bore is cleaned.

Also, old Indian trick... if you ever run a dry patch and it sticks your ram-rod, pour #13 solvent down bore and let patch soak up solution. Will make things a little less sticky and easier to remove.
 
Okay guys here's a big question I have. If I can get the bore fairly clear and cleaned, my nipple replaced or cleaned out, and am wanting to try shooting it.

Do you guys suggest going off of the current tc hawken manual for load data to at least attempt to shoot this thing? Do you suggest a light load or anything like that? The manual calls for the following as the lightest load.. 50grains ffg to obtain 1357 fps and 716 ft lbs using a .490 diameter, 175 grain lead ball (are they all pretty standard in weight?) I have some lead balls but I dont know the weight but I know they are for the gun... Should I weigh them or does the size kind of dictate the weight?

FYI it says 110 grains is the max.

Thanks.
 
Gettin the cart before the horse !!

My apologies for not posting this sooner but was trying to address your initial questions. Basically, you have layers of neglect inside that bore and may take some time to get down to the actual bore. I have seen some real wrecks that surprisingly came back, in pretty good shape. Then there are some that are long gone. ..... :mad:
On and unknown barrel such as yours, this is how I address the fix:
1) Remove the barrel, plug the nipple vent and mount in a vertical position with the breech end in a Large jar. I do this in my outside shop bench.
2) Full the bore with mineral spirits to the muzzle and I never use water. You can allso use Ballistol ... ;)
3) Plug the muzzle end with a rubber stopper and let it site for a minimum of three (3) days, at week would be better.
4) At the end of the soak, I remove the muzzle plug and start working a bronze brush, starting at the muzzle and using short strokes, slowly advance the brush down the muzzle. I use one of my poly range-rods.
Feel the brush/Rod as it will indicate the rough areas along the way.
Repeat this process two or three times or whatever it take as long as you can feel that you are making progress.
5) Remove the barrel from it temp. mount and pour out your dirty mineral spirits.
6) Remount and start swabbing with a swab or clean patches...
7) Now you are ready for a good inspection. I have a number of bore lights that I can drop down, to the breech end a look down the bore. At this time, you want to look for pitting. .....:eek:
A good source of bore lights, are Bobber lights that you can buy for about $3.00 in the fishing section of Walmart.
8) From there, you can best determine what your next step will be. I have some slightly pitted bores but but your performance will hurt. ... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
Makes sense, Pahoo. Thankyou for the insight. Maybe I was jumping the gun (lol) Definitely going to try and get my hands dirty tonight with this thing. Plese let me know about what nipples I need. Thanks
 
Good Call !!!

Also, old Indian trick... if you ever run a dry patch and it sticks your ram-rod, pour #13 solvent down bore and let patch soak up solution. Will make things a little less sticky and easier to remove.
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Excellent point and that is exactly what we did on one stuck rod. You think that pulling a ball is bad, a stuck rod will make that look easy. When you work up your supplies, make sure you include some good old #13, BoreShine or equal. ..... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
I do want to order a new nipple
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Notice the thread size specs, ( 1/4" x 28) on the nipple. After you remove the old nipple, you can get a 1/4" x 28 tap and clean the threads up in the breach plug where the nipple threads. Careful not to cross-thread. ;)
 
You guys have been a great resource. Thankyou so much for responses.

So I got some good news! I think that issue I was having with a blockage in my barrel has subsided.. Maybe I pulled out whatever was in it but the rod goes in fine now AND I am now getting air coming from the nipple. (I'm getting the whoosh sound now!) I also used a bore light and it seems pretty clear aside from some slight speckles of rust here and there. Definite step in the right direction!
 
Just wanted to give an update.. Soaked barrel in breakfree for 2 days and have gotten ALOT of the corrosion out of the barrel. No more stuck rods! I have a new nipple on order but the existing nipple was removed and cleaned, along with the spot under then nipple. Bore is quite a bit cleaner and I can hear a whoosh of air every time I push the rod down it. Whats next? Give it a shot?!
 
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