So I just tried to headspace a Yugoslav Model 48

4

4V50 Gary

Staff
in 8mm Mauser. It's the post-war Yugoslavian version of the Mauser 98K. Anyway, the stripped bolt refused to close on the:

Field Gauge. That's a good sign.
No Gauge. That's a good sign.
Go Gauge. That's a sign it needs chambering.

I'd say it's a pretty safe piece as it won't chamber a round. :D
 
Any burs at the chamber mouth?

Cosmoline build-up in the chamber?

Debris you missed?


Personally...
I'm a big fan of the Yugos.
The M48 series got a little cheap with some stamped parts, but I think the actions and barrels were of excellent quality.
More often than not, from what I've seen, they usually don't have super-sloppy headspace, either.

I was recently essentially 'gifted' a 1924 Yugo receiver and barrel that I'm going to populate with parts from a 24/47 that I stripped. The receiver and barrel need some cleanup from a Bubba barrel removal; but all signs point to awesomeness (and tight headspace). :D
 
I didn't try to chamber a cartridge. Didn't see any burrs in the chamber.

At least the commies didn't have to worry about rebellions.
 
As many folks have found out, the Yugo M48 and the earlier Model 24 are not the same as the German Model 98. The receivers are shorter than those of the German rifles and bolts and some other parts will not interchange.

Jim
 
I would try to chamber a dummy round without the extractor. I rarely had good results with American made Headspace gages in foreign military rifles. The CIP specs are usually not even called off the same points and you are splitting a fine hair.
 
Is it possible somebody tightened the barrel for some reason, therefore shortening the relative chamber depth to the bolt face? Or the bolt is not the original?

Either way, shouldn't take too much reaming to fix.
 
What happens to the sights when you tighten down the barrel? The solution is to remove the barrel, ream it, reattach the barrel to the receiver and check the headspace. Now, if there's a super long reamer (or some way to extend it), the receiver can probably stay on.

BTW, the same guy had a shortened Mauser 95. No decorative crown and the working crown looked like it was filed by hand. Bubba lives!
 
You can get reamer extensions so you can lengthen the chamber in place.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/77...amer-extension
Click to expand...
Yep.
Have one.
Used it on a 6x45mm AR barrel that seemed easier to finish-ream while installed, rather than off the receiver; after fighting with the manufacturer for over a year (3rd [4th?] barrel with short headspace).
Worked just fine.

Keep it well-oiled, or it will rust like a sum-B.

Based on the project rifle lineup, I'll probably need the tool soon to finish a .307 Win chamber, and a 7x57mm chamber, as well. (I really need to stop putting rifles together from left-over parts, free barrels, and 'grab-bags'. :rolleyes:)
 
in 8mm Mauser. It's the post-war Yugoslavian version of the Mauser 98K. Anyway, the stripped bolt refused to close on the:

Field Gauge. That's a good sign.
No Gauge. That's a good sign.
Go Gauge. That's a sign it needs chambering.
Click to expand...



Field Gauge. That's a good sign.
Click to expand...
And I wonder; If the bolt would not close on the field reject length gage why did you need a no go-gage? Same for the go-gage; a reloaders can determine the length of the chamber with any one of the three gages. I have offered to modify go-gages to 'go to infinity' gages, I no longer make the offer because reloaders are scared because they do not understand.

Before I had a head space gage I made tools that were designed to measure the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head. The same tool also measures the length of a head space gage and fired cases, new/factory cases, fired cases and sized cases. The tool not only measures the length of an 8mm57 case from the datum to the case head, it measure the length of a 30/06 case from the datum to the case head. I know it is confusing but the difference in length between the 8mm57 and 30/06 from the datum to the case head is .127".

F. Guffey
 
Yep. Just chuck the kludge in a cordless drill, and get at it.
:rolleyes:



There's too much slop in standard socket extensions for hand reaming, in my opinion.
There's no positive feedback through the extension, to indicate that lateral force is being applied. ...And lateral force makes egg-shaped chambers and rough throats.

Plus, if you have the tool, you have a rigid 3/8" drive T-handle.
 
You are really "jumping the gun" here. Drawing conclusions from people's ideas (Including me) that have not even looked at this rifle? Going back in with a reamer is hardly a "Fix all" for an undersize chamber. Have you even tried a dummy round or at least a resized case? Who is to say what part of the chamber is undersize? If it is only "A few thousandths". Where at? Reamers have tolerance and are not all the same. You could leave a step in the chamber somewhere. You are about to fix a problem and you do not even know what the problem is. It may not be the chamber at all. Chances are you will muddle your way through it and be OK, but I would lay off the Bubba remarks if I were you.
 
I have a reamer extension/t-handle and have used it working through the receiver- but it's tough to judge very light cuts to .001- and if you eff up, you have to set back the breech and start over which requires a lathe. Yes you can modify a socket extension but it will require work as the head will not fit in the boltway and you need a set screw...I did it once and stopped being a cheap bastage and bought a T-handle designed for the job.

I now use a micrometer reamer stop from PTG for all my chamber reaming- and it's ideal for this situation where you can drop in your gage, set the micrometer for depth of cut desired allowing for thread crush, etc. and it will be spot on every time.

If you cut the chamber deeper with the T-handle go slowly with a good cutting oil. You know the saying...you can always remove more but you can't put it back. Cut too deep...And it's off to the gunsmith anyway.
 
Not being a smart aleck, but are you sure it's the right bolt? Do the serial numbers match the rifle. Numrich sells a replacement bolt, but it has to be modified to work. Is the bolt knob round all the way or is it flat on the bottom?

Pictures would help.

TK
 
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