I guess my main problem with this post is that you seem to be trying to buy accuracy. I was taught when you are consistantly shooting the same way every time and you can't wring anymore accuracy from the shooter that is when you look at improving the rifle/equipment.
That tells us you are thinking about being able to do it. The fact is what you are looking for is out there, but are you capable of performing? kraigwy gave you the best advice of all on this in post #2.
Wrong if you have a load that shoots a ragged hole at 100 yards the rifle and load will be sub-moa at all ranges. What will cause you not to be sub-moa at all ranges will be your skills behind the trigger. BC and SD don't matter at all and weather (wind) can all be compensated for to keep the load sub-moa as long as you can correctly gage them. When I said BC and SD don't matter, I mean as long as you know what they are you know how the bullet will act to external forces, so you can accurately predict the bullet trajectory.
I'm not sure a FFP scope is the way to go here, just because someone agreed with your choice. You want a scope that will not cover up point of aim at 1000 yards correct? What about close in shots? With a FFP scope your reticle gets bigger as you turn the scopes power up.
So if you have a reticle that is 1/4 moa thick on the highest power that will not cover up a 1/2 moa target (your requirement for sub 1/2 moa rifle) at 1000 yards, I doubt you'll be able to make it out on the lower powers very well. It is hard to find an animal at close range on high power if you have to make a quick shot. You might be better of with a 1/4 moa thick cross hair in the SFP that doesn't change size when you change the power.
That tells us you are thinking about being able to do it. The fact is what you are looking for is out there, but are you capable of performing? kraigwy gave you the best advice of all on this in post #2.
Wrong if you have a load that shoots a ragged hole at 100 yards the rifle and load will be sub-moa at all ranges. What will cause you not to be sub-moa at all ranges will be your skills behind the trigger. BC and SD don't matter at all and weather (wind) can all be compensated for to keep the load sub-moa as long as you can correctly gage them. When I said BC and SD don't matter, I mean as long as you know what they are you know how the bullet will act to external forces, so you can accurately predict the bullet trajectory.
I'm not sure a FFP scope is the way to go here, just because someone agreed with your choice. You want a scope that will not cover up point of aim at 1000 yards correct? What about close in shots? With a FFP scope your reticle gets bigger as you turn the scopes power up.
So if you have a reticle that is 1/4 moa thick on the highest power that will not cover up a 1/2 moa target (your requirement for sub 1/2 moa rifle) at 1000 yards, I doubt you'll be able to make it out on the lower powers very well. It is hard to find an animal at close range on high power if you have to make a quick shot. You might be better of with a 1/4 moa thick cross hair in the SFP that doesn't change size when you change the power.
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A good used Win 70, Rem 700, or Sav 110 sporting rifle .308 or .30-06 can be found on the used market, often times with good scopes for under $500. with a shooter that knows how to dope his rifle these calibers are deadly out to 800 + meters. These lightweight sporting rifles are generally not shot out because they are really not that fun to shoot. The guys sitting at the bench all day long burning up barrels are using heavy varmint/target/sniper wannabe rifles, not shooting 7 1/2 lb rifles meant to be carried a few miles in and a few miles out and up the mountain both ways. 
Almost all of these rifles will shoot sub MOA with a lot of practice and some minor adjustments to the rifle and the load.