Smith lockup--it happened

Ejector rod backed out slightly ... locked her up solid.
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Lacking other proof of the IL as the culprit, the above seems a more likely answer. And yes, I have both early and late model Smiths...more than an dozen...to qualify that statement. Rod
 
My philosophy, never buy a gun with a lock or a springy thingy in the trigger.
Recently wanted to add another .357 to my collection, searched high and low for a reasonably priced pre-lock 686, finally gave up and popped for a Dan Wesson. No lock and interchangeable barrels what's not to like.;)
 
Sgt127; Any suggestions on how to open a locked up solid model 10 with a backed out ejector rod as I described, WITHOUT using a rubber mallet??? As far as my Gunsmith, he retired long ago, in his mid 80's now, a personal friend of mine, a retired Constable in the Town I grew up in. The mallet worked and quite well, as that gun was locked up tighter than Hillary's E-mail server. Is there a better method you know of, aside from your suggestion?
 
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Yes. Several ways. If it’s a shrouded ejector, A thin strip of inner tube or leather wrapped around the knurled part of the ejector. You have to feed it around. Hold the hammer back partially to drop the bolt and rotate the cylinder, while holding tension against the rod. Alternatively, use a brass punch and use it as a wedge against the knurled part of the rod and the lug, and rotate the cylinder as described.

Exposed rod, simply Tighten with padded pliers or, hold it, drop the bolt by manipulating the hammer and, rotate the cylinder until it’s tight enough to clear.
 
You are welcome.

“Generally” force is not the first option to remedy a revolver problem. Sometimes it is. If a hot round forces primer flow into the firing pin hole, a judicious tap with a Babbitt or a rubber mallet IS the answer.

:)
 
Please note that between 59-62 S&W changed the ejector rod threads of K and N frame models from right hand to LEFT HAND THREAD.

No mention was made in the reference to thread changes in J frame models.

SO, if you're trying to screw the ejector rod back together to unjam the gun, make sure you turn it the correct way.
 
My Method for screwing the ejector rod back in is to use a piece of stiff cardboard to depress the cylinder bolt. Then take a pencil with eraser and use the eraser to hold the end of the ejector rod, and rotate the cylinder by hand to screw the rod back in.

If the "gunsmith" used a rubber mallet to force the cylinder open he could have bent or damaged the center pin.
 
Well, a rubber mallet was used, and my model 10 is still running strong (nothing bent), and if I recall, it jammed prior to Clinton being elected. Guess I got lucky.
 
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