Smith & Corona 1903A3 question

S

snowman748

New member
A while back I picked up a 1903A3 Sporter from a local pawn shop for $250. I debated leaving it a Sporter and using it as a hunting rifle. It has the original barrel, action, trigger guard/magwell, trigger, etc. It was drilled & tapped, had the bolt handle turned down, front sight removed, safety switched to one that would clear the scope and put in a Sporter stock. I bedded the stock and added a Timney trigger (I kept the original trigger) and restained the Sporter stock to give it an aged look. Overall I liked the way it turned out BUT I'm kind out getting an itch to make a 1903A4 clone out of it. After doing some research it appears the only things I would need are a new stock, handguard, barrel bands, scope mount, scope, safety and possibly a sling. I'll probably use mostly reproduction stuff and not original, especially since I'm sure some modifications will be needed to make it fit right. I picked up an original 1903A3 stock from a gun show for $10 but it's been cut short. I plan to use this to practice inletting the bolt handle. I figure if I screw it up I'm only out $10 and it's good to practice before I buy a full length stock since they seem to run about $200. I also know I'll have to probably drill new holes on the scope mount to match up with the existing holes in my receiver.

Am I on the right track? I understand making a 1903A4 clone probably won't increase the value much but it just seems fitting to try and return it to somewhat of an original form. I'm not in any kind of a hurry to do it but would it really be worthwhile versus leaving it a Sporter? I did some research and I know for sure the stock came from "Golden State Armory" something about their "Santa Fe division" and I kind of wonder if they might have sporterized it also. I know they're more well known for making Enfield sporters BUT they did do some 1903s and Mausers.

I'm also wondering if a do make a 1903A4 clone if I should cut my loses and go back to the original trigger or leave the Timney in it for fun since it shoots so nice. I have no plans to sell the original trigger off. And yes I did have to file the opening bigger in the trigger guard to accommodate the Timney. If I go back to the original trigger I'm sure I'll have to replace that part as well.

Any feedback or input would be appreciated.
 
Here is a picture of the rifle. It's currently sporting Weaver rings and a Redfield 3-9x50 scope. When I got it was sporting the older style Weaver rings and a Burris Fullfield but those were moved to my Girlfriends Savage. I plan to pick up a Savage 110 to replace this as a hunting rifle and rob the rings and scope from the 1903 for the Savage 110.

EDIT: the reason I plan to replace it as a hunting rifle is I noticed when shooting it it would leave a ring on the cases, I was worried about a headspace issue so I bought some gauges. It will close on a No-Go gauge but will NOT close on a Field gauge. From my understanding that means the rifle is safe to fire but I need to keep an eye on it. I'm not sure if this is an actual headspace issue or if the rifle maybe came from the factory with a bigger chamber since it was war time production? I believe the action was produced in 1944 (from looking up the serial number) and the barrel was produced in August of 1943 (according to the stamp on the barrel). Either way I figure it's probably a good idea to retire the rifle from excessive shooting and only take it out to the range on special occasions and for fun.

 
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Hi,looks like you got a nice rifle for $250.
Its yours,and you can do what makes YOU happy.
IMO,re-militarizing it ,since it has an original barrel,uncut,is a great idea.

Value? Its not going to be as issued,collectible. It will never be a true 1903A4 ,and it will never have the 1903A4 monetary value. That's OK,leave that to the originals,and build the shooter you want.

You can choose to make it a1903A3,or a1903A4 . Original 1903A3 bolt bodies and bolt sleeves and safeties are quite available.One source is e-bay. You will find new originals there. You can get bolt sleeves and safeties,too. Select a bolt body with a slight sweep-back to the handle. That gets you out of the "low number" questionable bolts.
If you change bolts,you need a headspace check.Likely,it will be good,but you have to check.You mentioned having gages. A new bolt COULD gain you something.
If you go 1903A4,your bolt is fine. There are handloading techniques to make the best of a little extra headspace,if need be,for brass life. It passes "field"

IMO,there is only one matter of concern. I can't answer it,either.

I suggest you build it to comply to the CMP Vintage Sniper competition rules.

Do your own research,but IIRC,your scope bases and rings must be of a particular type. That means the drilled and tapped holes must be the right locations. You do not want 3 or 4 holes in the top of your receiver.
If its an issue,likely you can modify the base to accept screws on the existing locations,but Check with CMP to see what is OK,because...they make the rules,and they are not particularly negotiable.
CMP sells repro bases and rings. Only a few scopes are acceptable. See the rules.

You will need an original trigger,and no glass bedding is allowed.

This will get you to the rules:

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMPGamesRules.pdf?ver=01052017
 
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Restoring a sporter to original military configuration is an expensive endeavor. Doing a 1/2 way job leaves the entire rifle looking like a cobbled up "Bubba job" of neither sporterized or original condition. Just my opinion.
Just finding and buying an original A4 scope is quite pricey and getting it mounted more so. The D&T holes left in the top of the receiver will stick out like warts on Miss America's nose.
Better spend some $$ addressing the possible headspace issue and own a decent hunting rifle. I have 3 or 4 03A3's in various conditions of sporterizing and will say that a good one will shoot with most any mass produced 30/06 past or present. I even have one that I re-barreled with a new 4 groove Smith Corona barrel that I haven't shot yet.
 
I don't understand how using "reproduction parts" instead of original would be "cobbling" a rifle together. I also don't understand how drilled and tapped holes would be like "a wart on a super model" when they're covered up by the scope base. Yes yes Original 1903A4 stuff is VERY expensive but a nice reproduction scope is $360. The reproduction scope mount is $100. That's not cheap in itself but it's also not $20 China junk.
 
I had a Remington 1903 from Golden State at one time. They did a lot of sporterizing of different surplus military rifles and parts back in the 60's in CA.

Your stock looks very similar to the one I had. The barrel on mine was stamped Golden state / Santa Fe. Later the same outfit different ownership or interest got into casting 1903A3 receivers and stamped them Santa Fe or National Ordinance. These were early in casting tech and were suspect when it came to quality control and inspection. Several were known to come apart when fired so it is well known that you don't shoot those, destroy and move on.
Yours isn't one of those so that's the good part. There were no 03A4 Smith Coronas but I'm sure you already know that and still entertain the idea of making a clone. You certainly can, and probably do it for a reasonable price considering what you have in the sporter. You will probably want to replace the barrel if you are shooting factory ammo. If you reload you could adjust your sizing die to not set it back to standard and get less working of the brass.
I recently picked up a SC sporter that had been drilled and tapped and put in a sporter stock but other than that it was original. I removed a perfect 6 groove barrel and replaced it with a McGowan heavy target barrel in .308. I had to find a stock which would accommodate that barrel size, they are out there but quite a bit of work to open up the channel. It's a fine shooting target rifle and very accurate. Just an option.
If you go with the clone, you will need to check your mount holes to see if they are right for a one piece base as the A4's used those. SC's are one hard receiver to drill if you have to add any. A lot of smiths won't do them. Jfyi.
 
Since it has been drilled and tapped, it makes sense to go the 'A4 route. I think it is a perfect candidate for a '03-A4 clone. If done right it will be a great looking rifle. I agree that a repop scope and mount, along with a new "C" stock is the way to go.
 
It appears to me that your barrel has been turned, it doesn't have the same contours as my 03A3 and it doesn't have the front sight band. That said, if you just want the military look replacing the stock and fittings won't be difficult. I actually prefer the sporterized look over the military but if you like it in different "clothes" then build it to suit yourself. Either way it won't change what you have or the value.
 
Smith & Corona 1903A3 question

OP first needs to know what scope base it is drilled for. The original Redfield Jr mount used only 2 holes. One in front, one in back. If it has two in front there are similar mounts available.
Check ebay.

Some 40 years ago I was gifted an RA 03A3 barelled action that had been partially sportered. It had been polished, the barrel cut behind the front sight bandand drilled and tapped for a Redfield one piece mount. It languished for many years. I finally decided to do something with it.
I built a "resto-mod" that will make a purist cringe. I did all the park myself. I had a Keystone C stock and metal from another A3 restoration. I added a Weaver K10 but also have a K2.5 which is CMP legal.
With the scopes and rings I have about $250 into it. It gets a lot of attention at the range and is a hoot to shoot.
To make it CMP legal it would need a barrel change to original profile. Maybe some day.
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I didn't think about the barrel being turned. I've thought about having it set back to fix the headspace issue. I don't reload and have no plans on reloading at least anytime soon. The front has two holes drilled and I think the back has either one or two (been awhile since I had the scope rings off) I'm sure the once piece mount wouldn't line up but I've heard of guys taking the base with two holes and slotting one of the holes so it lines up with two of the holes in the receiver and just putting a plug in the holes that remain in the receiver.
 
Smith & Corona 1903A3 question

Your barrel looks correct. It still has the original sight dovetails.
I think Leupold makes a one piece mount with 2 front holes.
Good luck and have fun.
 
1903A4 Ring detail 002 (2).jpgForgive me for not posing and composing the pic. I already had this shot in my computer.
This is the half bassed bubba hack job I made from an AIM receiver. I just don't care what anyone thinks .I like shooting it.
The scope is a Lyman Alaskan . Post and crosshair. Its a CMP legal scope. The Alaskan was actually chosen to be the next gen 1903A4 scope to replace the weaver 330. Some were placed on order,but it was canceled as WW2 was ending.I found that one on E-bay in the original box.
That sleeve on the scope behind the turrets,I loctited on the tube to prevent scope slipping . CMP did not accept it,so I cut it off.
The scope may be mounted forward of the original,I don't know.Eye relief is fine for me and the military safety swings full travel behind the ocular.
Works for me.
 
BLUF: Making it into an 03A4 clone doesn't add any value, let alone "much".

It will be- as it is right now in fact- worth the sum of its parts unless you find the right buyer.

I was in the classic car hobby for twenty years. Much more expensive repro parts for much lower production numbers are both common and accepted. Are originals better? Yes they are (depending on what you mean by "better"; in quality repros are often equal to or better than originals). Does anybody call a 1970 Buick GSX Stage 1 a "fake" because it has had the front and rear spoilers replaced by reproductions? Of course not. The car is legit.

In this case the rifle will never be a 'legit' 03A4. The owner understands this already, I think.

Having said all that, if we "value" the sporterized barrel action at 100 dollars (that's all it is now), the correct C stock or Scant stock wood set at 200 dollars, all the small metal parts at 50 dollars, a used repro scope at 250 dollars, a used repro mount and rings at 100 dollars, and a modified bolt at 100 dollars, we still have parts worth 700 bucks.

On the one hand, not insignificant money. On the other, a pittance compared to an original 03A4 with all original parts.

I own a 1903A4 clone which I bought. Keystone C stock, Weaver 330 made from various original parts, repro mount, original A4 bolt, sporterized receiver, all Remington furniture. Used to be used at Camp Perry in competition and the owner retired from that. Nice nice rifle.

I had also made my own 03A4 clone. I used a repro scope. It is superior to the Weaver 330.

So long as the owner understands this is about "fun" and not "investment", all's good. I think the owner of the 03A3 in question understands that.

Oh. The rifles. I made this one; de-converted it later. I wanted an 03A3 with iron sights. I mixed some epoxy with some black, white, and olive drab paint, and capped the holes.



I kept my eyes open for a project 03A4 clone or a whole rifle and bought this. Telescope was shortened about 3/4" due to damage at some time or other. They were never high precision scopes anyway.


PS
Photobucket, I hate you so. I had better load times on dial-up in the early 1990s. And when I hit 'stop' you just keep right on loading. A pox upon your house and may the fleas of 10,000 camels infest your jockey shorts.
 
I vote for the M1903A4 Clone, but then I shoot the CMP Vintage Sniper Rifle Matches.

Mine is a SC (real 'a4s were Remingtons) but its CMP Legal.

Both the stock and barrel are USGI, The barrel was an unissued '43 barrel. Every thing is USGI, except the scope. The scope is an old El Paso Weaver K-2.5, I've since replaced it with a repo Malcolm M73G4, it has the cross hairs instead of the post.

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It shoots, this is from last year's CMP OK City Games. 300 yards.

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How do you like that Malcolm M73G4
Click to expand...

I really do, its clear, and I seem to shoot a lot better with the fine cross hairs.

However, the first match I shot with this rifle was using the Weaver K-2.5, at the CMP Vintage Sniper Match at Cody WY. I did manage to bet a bronze metal. But I do shoot the M73 better. They seem to be getting pretty popular with the 'A4 shooters.
 
Hmmm.

Thanks. I have to pull OT until further notice and I'm already thinking of just what I'll use the money for instead of the fact that it's not going to actually solve the problem at work...

One last question. What size and brand rings did you need for the M73G4 to work on the Redfield jr type mount?
 
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