Smith and Wesson serial number search
- Thread starter Driveout02
- Start date
Late 1991 or early 1992. They were using the numbers a bit out of order then, so it's difficult to pin down. The book mentions a number of different countries that purchased batches of Model 10s, but doesn't say anything about Australia, which doesn't necessarily mean anything - the ones they do mention are in unusual configurations or carry unusual markings. The heavy barrel 10-10 was introduced in 1988 and replaced by the 10-12 in 1997; the corresponding tapered barrel models were the -9 and -11.
The N5xxxxx series was produced from 1978 to 1980. Prices on N-frames have been escalating rapidly lately. Based on the condition you describe, I'd say somewhere around $650.
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Can someone please tell me the approx. Manufacture date of a Model 28Highway Patrolman, serial No. N5738xx.
The N5xxxxx series was produced from 1978 to 1980. Prices on N-frames have been escalating rapidly lately. Based on the condition you describe, I'd say somewhere around $650.
Wow, thanks a bunch FlyFish. I really appreciate your help in this.
Can someone please tell me the approx. Manufacture date of a Model 28Highway Patrolman, serial No. N5738xx.
The N5xxxxx series was produced from 1978 to 1980. Prices on N-frames have been escalating rapidly lately. Based on the condition you describe, I'd say somewhere around $650.
Wow, thanks a bunch FlyFish. I really appreciate your help in this.
RedneckFur
New member
Thank you, FlyFish!
S&W .38 Special CTG - Serial Number help requested
Hi...newbie here, with another gun from a grandfather!
.38 Special, Serial Number 26XX.
You can see the ID on the barrel in white; I'm pretty sure my dad did that with Liquid Paper (the sights are also touched up that way).
The story was that this dated to WWI, but I honestly don't know. Was passed down from my grandfather to my dad and then to me.
Thanks in advance!
-Glenn
Hi...newbie here, with another gun from a grandfather!
.38 Special, Serial Number 26XX.
You can see the ID on the barrel in white; I'm pretty sure my dad did that with Liquid Paper (the sights are also touched up that way).
The story was that this dated to WWI, but I honestly don't know. Was passed down from my grandfather to my dad and then to me.
Thanks in advance!
-Glenn
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joedaddy81
Inactive
Hello I just purchased a 12-2 airwieght 2" nickel in the box and never fired. serial is 2D48xxx I was wondering a manufacture year and approximate value?
Zuben, I've been trying to figure out what you've got for a while, but I'm stumped for the moment. A .38 Special, 6-shot, hand ejector like yours (I'm filling in the 6-shot from the photo, but that's what it looks like), should be the common .38 M&P. The problem I'm having is that with that very low serial number the gun would date to the first year of production (1899), and 1st Model M&Ps did not have a barrel lug. It also appears to be a square butt, and 1st Models were reportedly all round butt. Perhaps someone who's better with this than I am can weigh in, but in the interim, two questions: First, is that the entire serial number? It would appear to be from the photo, but please confirm that (and also that it's 6-shot). Second, does the S&W logo appear anywhere on the gun? There were many copies made - yours appears genuine from the photo, but some of the copies can be pretty convincing.
1979 to 1980, most likely 1979. For value, scroll back up a few posts. If by "good condition" you mean "good" in the context of valuing firearms, then subtract $100 or so. If it's more like what TEBrown described for his gun, then yours would be of similar value.
1979-1980. Model 12s originally (introduced 1952) came with an alloy cylinder, which would make the gun considerably more valuable and also dangerous to fire. I think yours would be well past the time that the cylinders were changed to steel, but you should check (with a magnet). Assuming steel cylinder, I'd say it's worth about $650 to $700, though you may need to hold out until the right collector comes along - the book says to double that if it's alloy.
1980, presumably very early 1980. The range that year was 57K0001 to 91K6800
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.38 Special
Flyfish,
It is a six-shot. The cellphone pic doesn't show it well, but there is a S&W logo just above the handle (it's faint, but definitely there). There are only four digits in the serial number. I debated blurring the last two out, but wanted to stay in the guidelines of posting serial numbers here.
The gun has been kept in excellent condition. My father was an excellent marksman and always took care of his weapons. It hasn't been fired in 20 years.
Thank you for looking into this!
Added comment: After reading your comments and looking further on the Internet, this gun looks a lot more like a Model 1905, 4th change. I still can't explain the serial number issue.
Flyfish,
It is a six-shot. The cellphone pic doesn't show it well, but there is a S&W logo just above the handle (it's faint, but definitely there). There are only four digits in the serial number. I debated blurring the last two out, but wanted to stay in the guidelines of posting serial numbers here.
The gun has been kept in excellent condition. My father was an excellent marksman and always took care of his weapons. It hasn't been fired in 20 years.
Thank you for looking into this!
Added comment: After reading your comments and looking further on the Internet, this gun looks a lot more like a Model 1905, 4th change. I still can't explain the serial number issue.
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joedaddy81
Inactive
Thanks FlyFish!
Jim (laytonj1),
Bingo. The serial number is a six-digit one: 6826xx. The last four digits matching those on the butt of the grip.
So, the mystery is: why would the first two digits be missing?
I read an earlier message where someone noted that their gun had a round spot where a lanyard might have been mounted but was filled in. That describes the condition of my gun handle also, but that would make it seem that it was done aftermarket and then reversed. The other possibility is that someone faked the lanyard hole after removing the first two digits of the serial number.
Still doesn't make any sense to me, but I think I have a better idea of the gun's age (late 1930's, based on earlier posts here).
Thanks!
-Glenn
Bingo. The serial number is a six-digit one: 6826xx. The last four digits matching those on the butt of the grip.
So, the mystery is: why would the first two digits be missing?
I read an earlier message where someone noted that their gun had a round spot where a lanyard might have been mounted but was filled in. That describes the condition of my gun handle also, but that would make it seem that it was done aftermarket and then reversed. The other possibility is that someone faked the lanyard hole after removing the first two digits of the serial number.
Still doesn't make any sense to me, but I think I have a better idea of the gun's age (late 1930's, based on earlier posts here).
Thanks!
-Glenn
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OK, that makes sense now. What you've got is a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, 4th Change, manufactured between 1915 and 1942, in the serial number range of 241704 to 700000. So, it's highly unlikely (being near the end of the range) that it's old enough to have been used in WWI.
I'd noticed what appeared to be a filled-in hole for a lanyard ring in your photo and thought briefly about whether there might have been part of the serial number in that location, but it honestly never occurred to me that someone would drill out part of the number - obviously after market, as you say. I don't know what the legal status of the gun might be - if the only serial number were on the butt, as is the case for many guns, it would definitely be a rather serious federal crime to possess it. In your case, where the number also appears un-defaced in other locations, I'm not sure.
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The ALV serial number prefix would indicate late 1985 or early 1986. It will be either a "no dash" or a -1, which you can check by swinging out the cylinder and looking at the part of the frame that's exposed - the model number will be stamped there.
At the same time, look to see if there's also an "M" stamped in that area. The 686 and 686-1 models were part of a recall that also included Models 586, 681, and 581 to correct a condition with the firing pin and bushing, which could cause the gun to lock up when firing certain hot loads. My understanding is that S&W will still do this fix at no cost, and will also pay for shipping both ways. Not everyone has the problem and not everyone has the modification done. My recommendation would be to get it done if needed, and absolutely get it done if you ever anticipate using the gun for SD.
There's a thread currently running about 686 values that you may want to check out. Although there are differing opinions, my sense is that depending on condition and where you're located, value could range from around $500 to $650 or so.