Smith 360 PD .357 magnum

VZ’s were a total fail. Hand hurts bad after 38 +P’s. Returning them becaus3 of Brownell’s liberal return policy. My other option was reselling or tossing them in the trash.

Hogue grip are much better, imo, but are just a hair small. First pair split. Second pair seem ok.
 
You are way tougher than me. I carried a 642 for 20 years as a BUG. Only shot it when I had too. Even with Non +P, it was miserable.

The only gun I can shoot a cylinder full of .357 Magnums in a compact revolver, without falling down and whimpering in the fetal position, is a Ruger SP-101.
 
Jack19 said:
@Nathan

Have you tried the Lyman (Pachmayr) Diamond Pro Series grips?

I've been down your path and they made all the difference in the world for me.

https://www.lymanproducts.com/diamond-pro-series
I can't remember if we're allowed to post vendor links, Mods please remove if not.
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I have not tried them are they big. I really just wanted grips about 0.05” wider and ha good wide rubber surface even or slightly proud to the backstrap.

These Hogues are pretty good. Those Lyman’s with the covered backstrap might be better with 357 mags.
 
I really just wanted grips about 0.05” wider
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That is a very specific measurement. 0.05" (1/20th of an inch) is not very much at all, and less then I can easily tell by feel when it comes to the width of a handgun's grip.

I suggest, while waiting to find your "perfect grip" that you consider using a shim (including tape) either wrapped around the grip of between the grip and the frame to increase the total width that tiny amount desired.

Another thing I would suggest is that if your grip material is anything "hard" you DO NOT want it "standing proud" above the grip frame. IF it does, and you shoot anything with significant recoil, that "proud grip" will create a pinch point and be somewhere between less than comfortable and actually painful.

Good luck with your search only you have your hands and know what is the "right" fit for you.
 
Good point about the “proud” comments. I’m just frustrated that the VZ’s were a bit minus causing the backstrap to cut at my hand.
 
It doesn't look cool, and doesn't last (though it is easy to redo) but, electrical tape can be your friend!

There are even some kinds that are literally rubber strip with adhesive backing, and there's one my son had in the Air Force that basically only sticks to itself. I'm sure there is something on the market that will do what you want done, if you want to use it.

One of my personal requirements for anything that kicks, is FLUSH fit grips, or ones that completely cover the frame, and meet evenly with no gaps.

And a poor grip fit can turn something that really doesn't kick into a painful experience as well. I learned this shooting a 9mm Broomhandle Mauser. Despite being bigger and heavier than most 9mms, (which did tame recoil) the small grips, and especially the open slot in the backstrap for the shoulder stock attachment made it the most uncomfortable 9mm I've ever shot. Actually, a bit painful, though would be ok with gloves.

Shooting actual .357 loads from the uber light revolvers is not for the faint of heart, nor is it something that should be done often, not just for the gun, but for your HANDS and nerves. I know someone who suffered severe nerve damage from shooting too much .357 in J frame size guns. Its not a matter of "being a wimp" its a real thing, and real nerve damage can result.
 
Alan0354 said:
[...]I do NOT squeeze the gun when I shoot. I relax my hands, when the gun fired, I let the gun push my hands up. I don't resist.
[...]
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WOW! You're the only guy I've ever run into that shoots like I do! I use a COMPLETELY relaxed grip, with relaxed and flexed wrists, elbows, and shoulders .. I basically hold the gun as if it were a baby bird. That technique takes all of the "jolt" out of shooting ... the recoil is just absorbed by the mass (inertia) of my arms. I use this technique on all of my handguns, including my two .44magnums (an L-Frame and an N-Frame).
 
Mike_Fontenot said:
WOW! You're the only guy I've ever run into that shoots like I do! I use a COMPLETELY relaxed grip, with relaxed and flexed wrists, elbows, and shoulders .. I basically hold the gun as if it were a baby bird. That technique takes all of the "jolt" out of shooting ... the recoil is just absorbed by the mass (inertia) of my arms. I use this technique on all of my handguns, including my two .44magnums (an L-Frame and an N-Frame).
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All your handguns? Do you have semiautos also, or only revolvers? With a semi, this is called limp wrisitng and is the number one cause of stovepipes.
 
The "limpwristing" problem was rarely mentioned, though known to exist, in the days before polymer framed semi autos. Apparently those guns require something to recoil against or they're not happy.

I generally use a "firm" grip, not a hard squeeze on the gun, and allow recoil to lift my arms. For me, this has worked with all my handguns from .22 to .45-70, single shots, revolvers and semi autos.
I shoot recreationally, and don't have any interest in speed games or combat type shooting anymore.

In a bellygun like the 360PD a tight grip and muscling the gun to reduce muzzle rise during recoil might be an advantage, under the right conditions.
IF you can do it.....:rolleyes:
 
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