Oquirrh said:Problem with Uberti Remmy. When I got it second-hand, it had a real nice trigger - couple pounds pull and zero creep. But after a few outings it has gradually become a 'hair' trigger. I'm not joking when I say you can 'think' it off! It doesn't to release when I smack the butt though.
I've tuned some triggers but never un-tuned one.
Should I stone the sear notch it a bit deeper or buy a new hammer?
The sear angle is also important in the feel and safety of the trigger. When the trigger and hammer sears interlock, if the sear is on the radius line of the hammer, then the angle is zero or neutral. This means that the movement of the trigger does not move the hammer at all as the trigger is being pulled. A positive angle means that pulling the trigger causes the hammer to be cocked slightly more as the sear must move the hammer in order to clear. This slight dovetailing of the sears should be at around 2-3 degrees to provide a crisp trigger that will be safe and hold well. Any greater angle is an over-engagement and creates an excessive trigger pull. A negative angle is unsafe because there is no interlocking of the parts and the trigger can release the hammer without being touched.
Whenever working on the sear, I recommend that the hobby gunsmith reassemble the gun and test the trigger for safety. Put the gun back together without the cylinder. Cock the gun to half-cock and then put pressure on the hammer and try to push it back in the direction of the frame. It should not move at all. Assuming that the hammer holds well in the half-cock position, pull it back into the full cock position and repeat the test by pushing on the hammer to make sure the sear is engaging and holding. If hard finger pressure on the hammer causes the sear to slip, then your gun is not safe and the sear angle is probably negative or the sear is way too short. You should find the break to be crisp and clean. If you are used to cartridge revolvers, the trigger and hammer pull may seem a little strong, but this is normal in a cap and ball revolver since the hammer must place pressure on the cap during ignition.
It could be the angle in which the tip of the trigger & the sear of the hammer have in relation to each other too.
Oquirrh said:At $42 for a new hammer, it looks like Kasenit is the way to go. But what a hassle. I expected the Uberti Cimarron line would have better QC. It didn't look like the original owner had been fiddling, so it must have come soft from Italy.
BTW, does the pretty case-hardening color on parts mean anything functionally?
Looks like I get an education in metallurgy. Is it possible to get Kasenit anywhere but Brownell's? I'd like to avoid the shipping hassle/cost.
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