Sliding a Safe

I don't think you'll need to build up the floor to clear the water pipe.

1) Measure the distance from the top of the existing concrete floor to the top of the water line + 1/4".

2) Buy a 72" long section of squared-off 4" wide, "U"-shaped angle iron - which will be cut in half (36" each), with one half placed (front-to-back) on each side of the safe cavity.

3) Cut the sidewalls of the angle iron so that the 4" wide top flat towers 1/4" above the height of the water pipe.

(Notches for the waterpipe would need to be cut into the angle irons in order so they can straddle the waterpipe.)

4) Use plastic sliders and a couple of beer-crazed friends/relatives to tip the back or the (empty) safe on to the angle irons (now converted to a pair of rails) & slide that puppy home.


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I would try the furniture sliders, lots of them, plus they thin enough you can still bolt it to the floor with them under there. Also, good idea to have a gap under the safe so moisture doesn't build up under it and rust the bottom out.

A small gap under it is also good to run a power cord in if you have a dry-rod.
 
I used the heavy duty furniture sliders when I moved my safe. I got the 3in ones which support several hundred pounds and just used one on each corner. Now I wasn't sliding my safe around on concrete but instead on a hardwood floor and I only slid it a total of 5 feet. I left the sliders under my safe to give it a little ventilation underneath it.
 
a REALLY cheap solution for sliding furniture is cardboard. I've slid a fair amount of really heavy , awkward, stuff with cardboard.

Sadly , it seems to work best on carpet. But it will work on concrete too.
The big challenge for the OP at this point is to get some cardboard under it.

Believe it or not. I've used it before. I've moved a lot of stuff by myself using it. And I'm old...

Think Newtonian physics. Friction.. Break the adhesion and keep it moving.
 
Are you going to build up the concrete over the pipe? Or could you relocate the pipe. Trying to picture this. If you have smooth concrete, you will be suprised how much you can move on several pieces of 3/8" dowel, or even threaded rod, and at 1" clearance I would think you could get it out.
 
Ice rods...freeze water in sections of PVC and push them out the end. Make enough to do the job ahead of time. Lay them out, roll across them and leave them in place. They will melt, safe will be on the floor, nothing to have to remove and the little bit of water left will evaporate and dry up.

Seems it would work fine...
 
Ice rods...freeze water in sections of PVC and push them out the end. Make enough to do the job ahead of time. Lay them out, roll across them and leave them in place.
Click to expand...

Nice theory but it wouldn't even come close to holding the weight of a safe without crumbling.
 
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I too have used cardboard to move some very large heavy objects, several others and myself moved a safe door that weighed in excess of 1000 lbs. by placing a path of cardboard then sprinkling cornmeal on top of the cardboard, placing a cardboard piece under the door and pushing it along the path.
 
get some 1/2 inch black pipe, like used in the natural gas line for the home. lay they down across the open area and just roll them in. leave inplace as it would allow movement when (not if) it has to come back out.

Good luck!
 
Wedge a wood shim under safe and lift with a flat
bar raise one corner at a time, just enough to get
a small craftsman socket underneath. Repeat other
corners and roll away. If moving long distances replace
A socket as needed. I have done this many times
If floor is finished you need 1/8 inch steel plate strips
Good luck
 
If you use enough ice rods, it would work.

They'd be destroyed in the process of course, but that is part of the solution.

Imagine instead that you froze 1/2" of ice in a solid sheet, put the sheet in place and slid the safe across it into position.

It'd work *once*.
 
Slides easily enough on Carpet.


I just paid $400 to move my 1200lber about 20ft to the garage and will have to do another $400 to get it back in, in a few weeks.
 
The 1/2" or 3/4" black steel gas pipe as mentioned above will work. You will need a min of three, one @ back one about 3/4 toward the front and a pivotal one to reposition as it rolls back.

I have used this method to move full chest type freezers as well as getting washers and dryers out of tight spots without damaging the floor.

Hope this helps
 
Move safe

I had a Liberty safe delivered last year. The guys slid it from the truck into my master bathroom, over concrete, wood floors and carpet. They put the safe within 1" of the wall couldn't get any closer because of the baseboard. What they used was strips of what looked like kitchen cutting boards (white plastic like stuff about 1/2" thick and in various sizes that you can buy at Wally World) that was covered by what looked like black rubber to keep the safe from moving off the slick white plastic while it was sliding over the different surfaces. He said they made their own by cutting the plastic cutting boards and stacking pieces together until they had about 3 or 4 thicknesses and about 2" wide, these were held together with counter sunk screws and nuts. Both ends were tapered like skids. He didn't say what they used for the black rubber(?). The two movers just put the moving strips end to end and pushed/slid away. When they were off the one set, they just stopped and put the strips/skids at the end. This continued until the safe was where I wanted it. Worked pretty slick (pun intended) and they just rocked the safe to pull the moving strips out from under the safe. I guess if you are moving a safe for yourself, you could leave the strips in place. I hope this helps and gives you some ideas
 
I moved my safe into my house myself. I could not find my sliders and my wife give me 4 paper plates that I positioned under each corner and away I went. Simple. It was on carpet too.

kenken
 
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