Jim Watson
New member
Most have come in the "goodie bag" at IDPA or USPSA matches.
I did get a little bottle of Nanolube from a promotion on this board and I have seen others offered.
Slide lube?
- Thread starter tsillik
- Start date
Most have come in the "goodie bag" at IDPA or USPSA matches.
I did get a little bottle of Nanolube from a promotion on this board and I have seen others offered.
BOOGIE the oily
New member
Lexspeed said:
Absolutely.
I have seen first hand pistols that have been used daily for almost 2 decades without ever seeing a drop of oil. Of course, I wouldn't do it to my gun(s), but the fact is those weapons did work reliably, with hardly any cleaning, and no lube at all.
Personally, I like to keep things simple. That, and the fact that everything is expensive and hard to get in Argentina, made me decide to use ATF for gun oil, and a mixture of red lithium grease and ATF as "gun grease". Of course, I can't tell how good or bad they are yet, but I don't expect any problems with them.
I generally use grease on the slides of my auto pistols. Lubriplate, TW-25B, Brian Enos Slide Glide, Shooter's Choice Red Grease, MD7, I've used all of them with good success.
I use grease on a gun that will be carried for at least a couple of weeks before being shot & recleaned, which applies to my duty gun for work and whichever off duty auto is in the rotation for this quarter. I haven't noticed a problem with grease in really cold weather, but if it's that cold I'm probably not out on the range for more than 90 minutes anyway.
On guns that will be shot more frequently than that, I usually use oil. I have most recently been using Slip 2000 EWL (extreme weapons lubricant) and also 10-8 Performance Lube.
For regular lube I've used Triflow, Triflon, Break Free CLP, GI LSA, Militec, FP-101, Weapon Shield, Prolix, Snake Oil, Rem Oil, Gun Butter, Machine Gunner's Lube, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. and hadn't had any problems with those, either. My mechanic uses Mobil One as a lube on his rifles and is very happy with it.
Some shooters recommend the procedure of using a "floater" (thin bead) of oil atop the grease before going to the range for a lengthy practice session. I've experimented with that a little bit but I suspect that getting that complicated may be over thinking the issue a little bit . . .
I was in the National Guard for 20 yrs (1980-2000). For most of that time we used GI rifle bore cleaner (RBC) to clean in the armory or after a range qualification, and Break Free CLP in the field as a cleaner & lube both. As a cleaner I found RBC to be MUCH better than the Break Free -- Break Free was too thick to clean very well. But in the field it was nice to only have to carry one product to accomplish both tasks.
25+ years ago I shot on the State ARNG pistol team (to be honest, I was 2nd alternate) with a couple of old timers who made their own "Red Oil". If they liked you, they'd put a little bit on the slide rails of your M1911. It was a big honor. "Red Oil" was a mix of STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, Breakfree or Triflow, and something else that I don't remember anymore.
Seemed to lubricate okay. Tended to get all over the lenses of your shooting glasses because it was kind of thin
For a cleaner now, I generally use Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's #9. I have also used Montana Extreme and a commercial version of “Ed’s Red” solvent that I got from Brownell’s. (I have also used Ballistol with good results) Shooter's Choice makes a special formula for lead removal that I've found works really well, and Hoppe's has a couple of different formulas for different applications. Another solvent I've had good luck with is called Rustpruf.
There are about a bazillion different products out there, and I've used most of them and they pretty much all worked well. Lube for different applications does indeed have a different formula and additive package. Some guys get all worked up because they don't want to spend the money for a weapon specific lubrication product, and others like to experiment and make their own cleaners ("Ed's Red") or lubricants. There have been MANY discussions about lubrication on this forum in the past.
I use grease on a gun that will be carried for at least a couple of weeks before being shot & recleaned, which applies to my duty gun for work and whichever off duty auto is in the rotation for this quarter. I haven't noticed a problem with grease in really cold weather, but if it's that cold I'm probably not out on the range for more than 90 minutes anyway.
On guns that will be shot more frequently than that, I usually use oil. I have most recently been using Slip 2000 EWL (extreme weapons lubricant) and also 10-8 Performance Lube.
For regular lube I've used Triflow, Triflon, Break Free CLP, GI LSA, Militec, FP-101, Weapon Shield, Prolix, Snake Oil, Rem Oil, Gun Butter, Machine Gunner's Lube, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. and hadn't had any problems with those, either. My mechanic uses Mobil One as a lube on his rifles and is very happy with it.
Some shooters recommend the procedure of using a "floater" (thin bead) of oil atop the grease before going to the range for a lengthy practice session. I've experimented with that a little bit but I suspect that getting that complicated may be over thinking the issue a little bit . . .
I was in the National Guard for 20 yrs (1980-2000). For most of that time we used GI rifle bore cleaner (RBC) to clean in the armory or after a range qualification, and Break Free CLP in the field as a cleaner & lube both. As a cleaner I found RBC to be MUCH better than the Break Free -- Break Free was too thick to clean very well. But in the field it was nice to only have to carry one product to accomplish both tasks.
25+ years ago I shot on the State ARNG pistol team (to be honest, I was 2nd alternate) with a couple of old timers who made their own "Red Oil". If they liked you, they'd put a little bit on the slide rails of your M1911. It was a big honor. "Red Oil" was a mix of STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, Breakfree or Triflow, and something else that I don't remember anymore.
Seemed to lubricate okay. Tended to get all over the lenses of your shooting glasses because it was kind of thin
For a cleaner now, I generally use Shooter's Choice or Hoppe's #9. I have also used Montana Extreme and a commercial version of “Ed’s Red” solvent that I got from Brownell’s. (I have also used Ballistol with good results) Shooter's Choice makes a special formula for lead removal that I've found works really well, and Hoppe's has a couple of different formulas for different applications. Another solvent I've had good luck with is called Rustpruf.
There are about a bazillion different products out there, and I've used most of them and they pretty much all worked well. Lube for different applications does indeed have a different formula and additive package. Some guys get all worked up because they don't want to spend the money for a weapon specific lubrication product, and others like to experiment and make their own cleaners ("Ed's Red") or lubricants. There have been MANY discussions about lubrication on this forum in the past.
Carl the Floor Walker
Moderator
I read about "SlipStream" a synthetic lube on another forum. Saw a couple of videos and took a chance and bought a bottle. It really is a very slippery product. Tried it out on my very finicky Bersa 22. and it was a big help. I use it on all the metal spots and rail of all my pisols and some areas on my revolvers. Just a very thin layer. The video showed the difference in how much more quiet the gun will rack. After using it, I have to agree, the racking is so much more quiet. They also offer a grease for Ar's and such, but have never tried that. The slippery lube is doing a great job. It is not a rust preventive product. Just a lube. A very, very thin layer is all that is needed. It seems to bond with the metal.
marine6680
New member
I find the notion of grease holding on to grime more than oil a curious one...
Both are "wet" lubes... So both will hold any grime they encounter, like dust and lint, or particulate from firing. They don't attract grime, they are not grime magnets, they just allow it to stick.
Grease merely stays in place better than oil, and can make it seem like it holds onto grime more.
Grease is effective in even thin layer, just like oil... So you don't need to cake it on to work.
Something that was mentioned... Oil on top of grease?
You mean thinner grease? Because that is what you will get... Grease is simply an oil suspended in a "metallic soap". Grease can separate and recombine... All the oil will do is mix with the grease.
Both are "wet" lubes... So both will hold any grime they encounter, like dust and lint, or particulate from firing. They don't attract grime, they are not grime magnets, they just allow it to stick.
Grease merely stays in place better than oil, and can make it seem like it holds onto grime more.
Grease is effective in even thin layer, just like oil... So you don't need to cake it on to work.
Something that was mentioned... Oil on top of grease?
You mean thinner grease? Because that is what you will get... Grease is simply an oil suspended in a "metallic soap". Grease can separate and recombine... All the oil will do is mix with the grease.
shootbrownelk
New member
I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and Amsoil makes a great synthetic grease. A little goes a LONG way with it too.
Mike Irwin
Staff
I prefer light-bodied greases for the simple reason that oil will often fly back during recoil and splatter my glasses, and I HATE that.
Bottom Gun
New member
I found that a small dab of Imperial Die Wax will really slick up a slide without slinging off. I also started lubing the rams on my reloading presses with it and found it works better than anything I have tried so far.
bamaranger
New member
TW-25B
I've become a big fan of -25B over the years. SIG was pushing the stuff for on their autopistols, at assorted armorer's classes, and I conspired to have HQ buy a quantity for district . I'm talking the white tube, grease like substance. Comments and results from the staff were very positive. Seemed to last much longer than BreakFree, which was the go to lube previously.
Expensive, but the stuff lasts after application, and does not require a large amount to get coverage on an item.
Since then, I've started using it on all my guns.
I've become a big fan of -25B over the years. SIG was pushing the stuff for on their autopistols, at assorted armorer's classes, and I conspired to have HQ buy a quantity for district . I'm talking the white tube, grease like substance. Comments and results from the staff were very positive. Seemed to last much longer than BreakFree, which was the go to lube previously.
Expensive, but the stuff lasts after application, and does not require a large amount to get coverage on an item.
Since then, I've started using it on all my guns.
Ed's Red for me (equal parts by volume of Acetone, Paint thinner, Kerosene, & ATF) for cleaning, and a 50/50 mix of ATF and Kerosene for a general purpose oil; very cheap and it works to perfection. For grease on the rails of my Sigs, I use US Military Weapons Grease...again, it's cheap: $20 for a quart 15 years ago. Rod
We had vehicles in the Army that had wheel bearings with grease, and some with oil ..... in an emergency, sometimes on the same vehicle (parts availability thing) ....
The point is, if it's metal on metal, and it's moving, it's gotta be lubed, or bad things happen. Lexspeed had it right:
Whether you use bacon grease, or motor oil, or superdooper teflon spray made by Raylians, organic beeswax, or powdered graphite you shaved off a #2 pencil, all of these things are an improvement over the sliding friction coefficient of bare metal, and most of them will keep moisture (water, even from the air, speeds corrosion )..... and none of them work as well dirty as they do when they are clean. All of them attract dirt to a greater or lesser extent .... and your gun gets dirty when you use it..... PM: it's the key. THAT you clean and lube it is far more important than exactly WHAT you clean and lube it with, within reason, of course.
IME, grease tends to stay put better than oil..... slightly harder to remove when dirty, and some of them get really sticky in the cold...... and bacon grease contains salt and water- keeps the outside of an old flintlock an lovely shade of brown tho.......
I got some Nano-oil in a promotion on here .... slick stuff, and a little goes a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooong way (comes in a needle-oiler bottle, which is nice) ..... but at one time or another, I've used some form or another of all of the above (Didn't actually use the Raylian brand of teflon spray) on guns and reloading equipment..... Even mixed up some Ed's Red for cleaning.....
..... bottom line? I think that if folks spent as much time and effort cleaning and lubing their guns as researching the very best possible lube, there'd be fewer threads about why guns won't run....
for my semi auto pistols Ive been using a lube called "Gun Butter"
I really like this stuff, I notice it doesnt take much and it stays on the gun , after a day at the range when I field strip my pistol for cleaning, the gun butter is still there in the rails, it doesnt fling off.
but in general, I notice any gun lube works fine especially if you clean and lube after each range trip.
I really like this stuff, I notice it doesnt take much and it stays on the gun , after a day at the range when I field strip my pistol for cleaning, the gun butter is still there in the rails, it doesnt fling off.
but in general, I notice any gun lube works fine especially if you clean and lube after each range trip.
For semi auto pistols I go by the General Rule of Firearms Lubrication:
"oil for rotating parts, grease for sliding parts that carry a load."
In both cases I prefer the Lubriplate brand of products.
OIL = Lubriplate’s FMO-AW oil specifically the 350-AW weight.
GREASE = Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease.
Use just enough to make the surface look wet. That's all, no more.
For cleaning I like Hoppes #9 and Ballistol.
It's not rocket science folks, just keep your weapons clean and lubed.
"oil for rotating parts, grease for sliding parts that carry a load."
In both cases I prefer the Lubriplate brand of products.
OIL = Lubriplate’s FMO-AW oil specifically the 350-AW weight.
GREASE = Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease.
Use just enough to make the surface look wet. That's all, no more.
For cleaning I like Hoppes #9 and Ballistol.
It's not rocket science folks, just keep your weapons clean and lubed.
sigarms228
New member
The only times I have seen major malfunctions on pistols have been due to lack of lubrication. Twice at the range with friends who did not know much about maintaining their pistols - a 1911 and a Beretta 92FS both bone dry. Both times I was able to get them running perfectly with a few drops of oil I had in my range bag. I racked the slide, held the pistol vertical and rubbed on drop over the barrel exterior as much as I could and then a drop each into the end of the slide rails. After a minute I racked the slide a few times and pistol worked perfectly. Just like the tin man in Wizard of Oz.
I do the same as Normslee. As others have said, grease is for items that slide and oil for things that rotate. I use Lubriplate oil and grease for most of my guns. For those that say grease is too thick to use on 1911 rails, I use the Lubriplate grease on my Les Baer Premier II rails (a thin coat), and everything works well. Can't imagine many guns with tighter rail tolerances than a Les Baer 1911.
I use Slip 2000 EWL on my BMC AR-15 due to the experience of Pat Rogers (RIP) and his training company. He certainly has a harsher firing schedule than I'll ever experience with my AR (google "filthy 14"). Like Lubriplate, Slip 2K is a non-petroleum based lubricant. Would certainly use Lubriplate on the AR if EWL wasn't available (could be based on the same chemistry for all I know). Cheers!
I use Slip 2000 EWL on my BMC AR-15 due to the experience of Pat Rogers (RIP) and his training company. He certainly has a harsher firing schedule than I'll ever experience with my AR (google "filthy 14"). Like Lubriplate, Slip 2K is a non-petroleum based lubricant. Would certainly use Lubriplate on the AR if EWL wasn't available (could be based on the same chemistry for all I know). Cheers!