Single Action Revolver Safety

My dad called me up the other day to tell me about the cool new sheriff's model .357 single action revolver he'd just purchased. He's always been a hunter, but not what I would call a real gun guy, and as far as I know he'd never owned any pre-20th Century arms.
As he's describing his new acquisition, I asked him if the firing pin was mounted in the hammer nose, and he said it was. My response was, "Please tell me you only have 5 chambers loaded and the hammer is down on the empty one."
At this point I was informed the guys in the gun shop had assured him that Bill Hickok, Wyatt Earp, and all of the other old timers carried their guns fully loaded with the hammer down on a cartridge, or with the hammer at half-cock. I corrected this misinformation quickly, and I hope he listens before he picks up a permanent limp.
In any case I feel the need to explain the how and why of safely loading a classic single action revolver for safe carry. Should anyone doubt my credentials, I’m not breaking new wind here. I’m only repeating wisdom passed down from Elmer Keith, John Taffin, and the Single Action Shooting Society among MANY others.
The following applies to percussion revolvers as well a cartridge arms of the American frontier period 1835-1900. The most commonly known example being Colt’s Model P Single Action Army often referred to as “The Peacemaker”. For this article I will refer to the Peacemaker and its clones with firing pins mounted on the hammer nose as “classics” and those single actions of recent design that have transfer bars as “moderns”.
Moderns are guns like the Ruger New Model Blackhawk that have their firing pins mounted in the frame of the gun. They are equipped with a metal bar that is lifted by the action of pulling the trigger. The trigger raises the transfer bar so it fills the space between the hammer nose and the back of the firing pin, and transfers the force of the hammer’s blow to fire the pistol.
Classics usually have the firing pin mounted in the hammer nose BUT some early moderns like the Roger Old Model Blackhawk, (aka The Flattop) had frame mounted firing pins, but they lacked the transfer bar, so the safety precautions described here apply to them as well.
Carrying a modern single action with a fully loaded cylinder is acceptable IF the manufacturer’s instruction manual specifically says so. When in doubt, follow the rules for the Classics, and nobody is liely to get hurt. A classic single action revolver with six cartridges represents a genuine hazard to life and limb.
If the classic pistol is carried with the hammer down, the firing pin is resting on a live cartridge primer. This is the exact position the firing pin will be in if the revolver was fired. The only thing preventing ignition is the impact force of the hammer spring. Now think about all of the times a person bumps into things, hangs part of their equipment or clothing on something they are passing in the course of their day. Any of those innocent little bumps or snags could cause that hammer to be forced down on the primer hard enough to fire it. The best possible end result is soiled undergarments, but I would hate to have a premium hollow point bullet taking a chunk out of my anatomy along the way.
The half-cock notch is not and was never intended to be a safety. Its sole function is to unlock the cylinder so it can rotate to allow the weapon to be loaded or unloaded. The sear portion of the classic Colt’s trigger is fairly thin, and the retaining ridge on the hammer’s half-cock notch is not very robust either. Both of these parts are subject to breakage from abuse such as fanning of the hammer, or the pistol being dropped. Damage to either means the hammer is free to fall with predictable results.
Another attempt at a solution is to rest the firing pin on the space between loaded chambers. Consider that as soon as the hammer starts back the cylinder starts to turn. Snagging the hammer on a bit of brush could raise that hammer just enough to turn the chamber under the firing pic and drop it on the live round. No thanks.
The safest way to carry a classic six-shooter is to make it a five shooter by leaving one chamber empty and resting the hammer on the empty.
Load One, Skip One, Load Four More

Read the following procedure completely before practicing this manipulation. It works for almost all single action revolvers. Practice this procedure using only empty/fired cartridge cases until it becomes second nature.

1. Place the revolver on half-cock by pulling the hammer back 1 click. The cylinder should rotate freely.
2. Load the first chamber of the cylinder with an EMPTY/FIRED cartridge case.
3. Rotate the cylinder past the second chamber leaving it unloaded.
4. Load chambers three through six with EMPTY/FIRED cartridge cases.
a. Looking in the left side of the frame window, the chamber in the 11 o’clock position should be #2, the empty one.
5. Make sure the muzzle is pointed in a safe direction.
6. Support the pistol’s frame with the weak-hand.
7. Bring the hammer back to full-cock.
8. Keep the ball of the strong-hand thumb firmly down on top of the hammer spur to control its forward motion in the next step.
9. Place the trigger finger inside the trigger guard and gently pull the trigger to release the hammer.
10. The hammer will try to move forward under pressure from the main spring.
11. Use the pressure of the strong-hand thumb to gently lower the hammer until it is its normal resting place against the frame.

If the sequence was followed correctly, the hammer is now resting over the empty chamber, and the weapon can be holstered or placed in storage. It may be tempting to just pull the hammer back slightly from half-cock and lower it into the resting position. Resist this temptation because the hammer will be resting on a loaded chamber, and the timing sequence will be interrupted. While this timing interruption may not damage the mechanism it may cause the revolver to jam.

Sorry for the long post. This was really weighing on my mind.
Our sport has enough enemies without giving them accident statistics to throw at us.
 
An interesting first post.

I practice the way I shoot and it's always with 5 live 1 empty.
I don't ever load up 6 even if I'm shooting at targets over and over.
Practice how you expect to shoot.

Now, if I'm caught in a fire fight with a gang of desperadoes or a tribe of wild heathens, I guess it would be ok to load up 6 rounds over and over until the fight is over. But for "Social" work, I load 5 and leave one empty under the hammer.

However, if YOU choose to load up all six and carry, it won't weigh heavy on my mind at all. You guys are grown men who I'm sure take seriously your responsibility to make smart choices. What's smart for me isn't necessarily smart for everyone else. Accidents are going to happen. I just wish as much attention were given to car accidents as gun accidents. Far more people are killed and injured by cars.

Where did all that come from? Slow day at work. Carry on...
 
I wonder if there would be a "market" for a cylinder "plug" for shooters who can't count... Hmmm....

Like I said, slow day at work.
 
some solid advice except this part stumps me…
Another attempt at a solution is to rest the firing pin on the space between loaded chambers. Consider that as soon as the hammer starts back the cylinder starts to turn. Snagging the hammer on a bit of brush could raise that hammer just enough to turn the chamber under the firing pic and drop it on the live round. No thanks.

i get the safety notches and the old brush/hammer deal, but how exactly does having the hammer down on an empty keep you safe if said brush pulls hammer back and gets a live round ready to go? i know im prolly not being clear here, and im not telling anybody to carry 6 up
just not sure i get this portion of your post
Gene
 
Another attempt at a solution is to rest the firing pin on the space between loaded chambers.

Howdy

This does not work. There is not enough space between the rims, at least with large calibers like 45 Colt, for the firing pin to rest between the rims. Take a look at this photo. If one rested the firing pin between rims, it will lie at the narrowest point between the rims. That's the way the geometry works out. The firing pin is fatter at the tip than the space between the rims. I measured a while ago, but I forgot the numbers, but the firing pin will not rest between the rims. Instead, it will ride on the surface of the rims, with nothing to retain it there if the cylinder is accidentally rotated.

Besides, you don't want to let the hammer down from half cock, that is an excellent way to start a ring around the cylinder.

clearancebetweenrimsandfiringpin_zpsd93bba81.jpg


i get the safety notches and the old brush/hammer deal, but how exactly does having the hammer down on an empty keep you safe if said brush pulls hammer back and gets a live round ready to go? i know im prolly not being clear here, and im not telling anybody to carry 6 up
just not sure i get this portion of your post

I can't imagine a situation where a piece of brush is able to draw the hammer all the way back to full cock. That would be highly unusual. Just leave the hammer down on an empty chamber, that is the way it has been done for well over 100 years. The safest way to carry a single action revolver with the Colt style lockwork.

And yes, the first click is the so called 'safety cock' notch. Half cock is the second click.
 
Loading 5 is definitely the safest way to go. However, I think you're massively over-stressing the danger of the older methods.

The 'safety' notch is before the half-cock notch and was indeed intended to be a safety feature on original revolvers. Here is a period Remington advertisement that plainly claims so.
http://www.remingtonsociety.com/journals/articles/Model_18nn/Model_18nn_P16_1.png
You're correct that the safety sear on the hammer is relatively thin and is not drop-safe. However if I see somebody drop their gun, I don't want to be near them regardless of whether they loaded 5 or 6.
A drop that would break the safety sear would likely break the half-cock and full-cock sears just the same.

Resting the hammer between the rims of the cartridges is safer than you give it credit for, but is only possible with some guns. If you're using a holster with a hammer thong or a flap nothing can accidentally move the hammer.
Even if you're walking in the woods using a holster without a hammer thong, I can't see something snagging the hammer with enough force to drop it on a primer and set it off. Nothing's impossible, but it seems extremely unlikely.

You don't need to fear for your life if you're near a competent person with 6 loaded.
 
Howdy Again

Nineteenth Century advertising was full of extravagant claims. There were no liability laws like there are today to keep them in check. I have seen plenty of old guns with the sear or 'safety cock' notch completely broken off. Not just revolvers, but rifles too. Of course the half cock or full cock notch could be broken off, but nobody in their right mind walked around with a revolver at half cock or full cock. The 'safety position' was supposed to be that, but it really wasn't. And it wasn't just from dropping a gun that one could experience an accidental discharge. A stirrup dropped onto the hammer had enough force to break the sear and fire the weapon, the result being a bullet down the side of the leg.

It wasn't for nothing that Iver Johnson came up with the old 'hammer the hammer' slogan early in the 20th Century. It was well known how unsafe it was to carry a single action revolver fully loaded. Iver Johnson came up with an early transfer bar so their revolvers could be safely carried fully loaded.
 
This does not work. There is not enough space between the rims, at least with large calibers like 45 Colt, for the firing pin to rest between the rims.

Absolutely not true. If your firing pin is the shape of the old colt firing pins (a sharp pointed cone) it works just fine. This is what I put in my Uberti revolvers (.44-40 and .45 colt) and the cylinder will not turn unless you shear off the firing pin. The pin rests where I put the green dot just as snug as can be.



Also, if you have a good period style protective holster that comes up to or past the hammer spur, instead of a low cut modern "quick draw" style, brush cannot get to the hammer.



I occasionally carry six loaded in this manner and have for many years. I carry my guns every day as my "working" guns on the farm. I have carried them in every type of weather and during just about every type of chore you can think of. So take it for what it's worth, but that's my real world experience. The firing pins on my Uberti .44 Russian fits quite nicely between the rims too. There are different ways to be safe.

P.S. Yes, it does leave a ring around the cylinder. A whole lot of old Colts, S&Ws and Remingtons have a ring too.






I do not believe for a second that all of them have timing issues.
 
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A stirrup dropped onto the hammer had enough force to break the sear and fire the weapon, the result being a bullet down the side of the leg.

Since you state this as factual, do you have documentation for this? I can see a stirrup setting a revolver off if the firing pin is actually resting on the primer, (and have read about it happening to a cavalryman) but do not believe that one falling a couple feet could break an iron sear, at least not one that wasn't defective in some way. Stirrups are not that heavy. Besides modern guns are made with much stronger steel than the old wrought iron guns. That said, I would not trust the safety notch personally.
 
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Howdy Again

OK, I took my 1st Gen Bisley and tried the same test. It is chambered for 44 Special but I usually shoot it with 44 Russians. Same result. The firing pin wanted to stay between the rims, but it did not take too much effort to get it to ride over the the rims. It certainly did not shear off. If you look carefully you can even see the scrape marks the firing pin made on the brass. I categorically will not try putting a firing pin between rims, just don't feel comfortable about it. I am much happier just leaving an empty under the hammer.


firingpinandrimgaps_zps2e535a69.jpg



No, I have no documentation about the business with the stirrup falling on the hammer. I did read it somewhere, cannot remember where, so I do not know if the hammer was on the 'safety cock' notch or not.
 
. If your firing pin is the shape of the old colt firing pins (a sharp pointed cone) it works just fine. This is what I put in my Uberti revolvers (.44-40 and .45 colt) and the cylinder will not turn unless you shear off the firing pin. The pin rests where I put the green dot just as snug as can be.



Also, if you have a good period style protective holster that comes up to or past the hammer spur, instead of a low cut modern "quick draw" style, brush cannot get to the hammer. I occasionally carry six loaded in this manner and have for many years. I carry my guns every day as my "working" guns on the farm. I have carried them in every type of weather and during just about every type of chore you can think of. So take it for what it's worth, but that's my real world experience. The firing pins on my Uberti .44 Russian fits quite nicely between the rims too. There are different ways to be safe.
P.S. Yes, it does leave a ring around the cylinder. A whole lot of old Colts, S&Ws and Remingtons have a ring too. I do not believe for a second that all of them have timing issues.

Agreed. This is the way the old timers taught me when I was young.
 
Who is talking about timing issues? I simply provided two instances where the firing pin will not prevent the cylinder from rotating. It was just a side comment that lowering the hammer from half cock could help emphasize any turn ring that might already be there.
 
OK, I took my 1st Gen Bisley and tried the same test. It is chambered for 44 Special but I usually shoot it with 44 Russians. Same result. The firing pin wanted to stay between the rims, but it did not take too much effort to get it to ride over the the rims. If you look carefully you can even see the scrape marks the firing pin made on the brass.

I had a few pins that wouldn't cooperate too. That's what jeweler's files are for. Gave them a finer point. All of my pins fit just fine and the hammer face actually rests against the frame. All the way down.

I categorically will not try putting a firing pin between rims, just don't feel comfortable about it. I am much happier just leaving an empty under the hammer.

No one asked you to. Just shared a different point of view. Nothing more. You do things your way and I'll do things mine.
 
Don't know what got your panties in a twist, but no call to be like that. Thought we were having a discussion. Sorry my opposing view offended you. Oh well.

Anyway, here is one of my firing pins. It's on a Taylor's engraved cattleman.



That point fits right between the rims.
 
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FWIW, guns chambered for .44 Special can utilize .44 Colt cases which have a smaller rim diameter - .483" as opposed to .515" - to allow the firing pin, unmodified, to rest comfortably between the rims.

I have seen this done myself with a Cimarron Open Top in .44 Special.
 
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