would it be a bad choice to shoot cheap steel case ammo to get rifle on paper? I just put scope on model 70 and want to get it on paper, can I do this at 25, 50 or should I go straight to 100 yard line? (100 yard is furthest I have access to at range) I also saw some Prvi Partisan brass case ammo at Walmart. Thanks
Sight in ammo for 308 rifle
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Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Sorta general principles, I wouldn't use steel-case ammo in a Model 70 of mine. 
I boresight, then get dead-on at 25 yards. That's commonly around two or three inches high at 100, and give-or-take around two inches one way or the other from a vertical centerline.
Most centerfires, I zero for two inches high at 100 yards. That's always worked just fine for hunting.
I boresight, then get dead-on at 25 yards. That's commonly around two or three inches high at 100, and give-or-take around two inches one way or the other from a vertical centerline.
Most centerfires, I zero for two inches high at 100 yards. That's always worked just fine for hunting.
Agree, I bore sight across my garage then shoot a 3 shot group at 50 yards. Once I'm reasonably close I push out to 100 and get it on target. I wouldn't even really focus on super tight groups at 50 yards, just get close enough that you know you'll still be on paper when you're at 100.
Unlike that for handguns, rifle ammo most often shoots very differently for different loads. So, if you zero with one brand/ bullet weight, etc.....then switch to another, even with the same bullet weight , you will probably have to re-zero the rifle.
Someone else already said it - zero the rifle with the ammo you plan to shoot all the time.
Someone else already said it - zero the rifle with the ammo you plan to shoot all the time.
Thanks for the responses! Im taking notes! I boresighted at a very little distance using one of those laser boresighters, I shot some old Winchester silver tips (only had 2) that I had at 25 yards, so im gonna see what brass cased ammo I can find and get her a little closer to the mark.
I do gunsmithing for a few gun stores in the county and I know of about 8 cases of Tula ammo splitting cases in customers guns, and I also know of 2 realblow-ups. Their quality control is VERY poor.
I was able to replace the extractor and ejector on one Marlin X7 but on the blow-up that happened to the Remington the bolt face was expanded so the whole bolt had to be replaced.
If I were you, I would stick to something other then steel case. Not because steel will harm your rifle, but because poor quality may.
I always recommend loading your own. In that way you have total control of the quality and you save about 60% of the cost too.
I was able to replace the extractor and ejector on one Marlin X7 but on the blow-up that happened to the Remington the bolt face was expanded so the whole bolt had to be replaced.
If I were you, I would stick to something other then steel case. Not because steel will harm your rifle, but because poor quality may.
I always recommend loading your own. In that way you have total control of the quality and you save about 60% of the cost too.
"...just put scope on..." You bore sight it? Shooting any kind of ammo to "get on target" gets expensive quickly.
Across my garage is too close, but it's better than nothing. There's likely a street light or something else, 4" or so in diameter, about 100 yards away that will work a lot better than whatever you're using across your garage.
"...know of 2 real blow-ups..." You hearing about any law suits resulting from that? Just curious.
Across my garage is too close, but it's better than nothing. There's likely a street light or something else, 4" or so in diameter, about 100 yards away that will work a lot better than whatever you're using across your garage.
"...know of 2 real blow-ups..." You hearing about any law suits resulting from that? Just curious.
Pathfinder45
New member
Don't defile your fine Winchester with such inferior ammo.