SIG 1911s?

I had two SIGs in .45ACP, a Target and a MAXX. Both were excellent pistols. I've owned DW and Springfield, along with STI. STI is my favorite 1911. Should I decide another 1911 is needed, I may try Colt. Haven't convinced myself the more expensive ones, such as Wilson, etc., are worth the price.
 
I had an STX and an XO. The purists don’t like the external extractor, but they’re good guns. Mine both ran great out of the box. I traded the STX for the XO, and later traded the XO for the P227 SAS.
 
.but I really have to disagree on Rock Island, nothing Rock Island makes has an inkling of quality in it - they're just junk
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Ouch! You are going to have to define what you mean by quality, calling something junk because it is.......

I got to pick the best out of three RIA's and each of them was very tight. That is, no wobble on the barrel hood, hardly any movement between slide and frame, no wobble at the barrel bushing, and the trigger was good on all of them. The one I picked had zero wobble between slide and frame, all else being equal.

I took my piece of junk to the range and it fed everything I shot.


Rock Island Arsenal GI M1911 RIA 5" barrel

200 LSWC 4.0 grs Bullseye Mixed cases WLP
18-Dec-17 T = 61 °F

Ave Vel = 718.8
Std Dev = 13.82
ES = 48.91
High = = 747.1
Low = 698.2
N = 19


230 Norinco Ball 1991 headstamp
18-Dec-17 T = 61 °F

Ave Vel = 776.5
Std Dev = 13.74
ES = 57.15
High = = 798.7
Low = 741.5
N = 24

shot point of aim


230 FMJ 5.0 grs Bullseye (1998 & 2005 mix) WLP, OAL 1.265" taper crimp 0.469"
once fired brass

18-Dec-17 T = 58 °F

Ave Vel = 777.4
Std Dev = 14.56
ES = 57.1
High = = 806
Low = 748.9
N = 30



230 Bull-X LFN Hardcast 3.5 grs Bullseye WLP, OAL 1.20 taper crimp 0.469"

18-Dec-17 T = 58 °F

Ave Vel = 607
Std Dev = 11
ES = 42.81
High = = 630.2
Low = 587.3
N = 32

slide functioned every round.


230 gr LRN 4.6 grs W231 Mixed brass WLP OAL 1.250" taper crimp 0.469"

18-Dec-17 T = 58 °F

Ave Vel = 674.5
Std Dev = 21.28
ES = 94.55
High = = 713.8
Low = 619.2
N = 32


230 gr LRN 5.0 grs Green Dot lot 178 WLP OAL 1.250" taper crimp 0.469"

18-Dec-17 T = 60 °F

Ave Vel = 803.8
Std Dev = 25.92
ES = 89.11
High = = 853.3
Low = 764.2
N = 14
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I shot more than what is chronographed, as I have been out to the range several times since. I was able to adjust for windage, which I am grateful for a drift adjustable rear, and the thing ejects cases high and to the right, which means they don't go into my net, I have to pick the rounds up off the ground. It is as accurate as any of my series 80 Colts, the irons on this thing are not target sights, and certainly not a Red Dot. With an optical sight I would be able to tell if this thing is capable of target accuracy or not. With irons, if I get a circular group around my aim point, that is good enough. And I am.

My pistol has gone bang every round, feeds and ejects reliably, so what more do you want for $399? I did look at my Gun Test article on this pistol, they were happy, and I did search for other experiences on the web, and I did not find a consensus that these pistols were "junk"

I would have preferred forged/milled trigger sear parts. I am on my third MIM hammer and second set of sears on my Clackamus Kimber. This is a series 70 action, I don't like the Schartz safety, makes it hard to reassemble the pistol.

wfm4oQ1.jpg


Can't say a MIM frame is all that bad. The steel in the frame and slide is excellent in this application, far better than the plain carbon steels used in GI 1911's.

To some, junk is simply something they don't own. So, what is your definition of junk?
 
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While not a 1911, the SIG P220 in .45 ACP is very similar in terms of capability yet has the benefit of a more modern simplified action and great reliability

The Model 227 (the same pistol as the Model 220 but having more capacity) is another option.

The location of the extractor aside, I'm a big fan of 1911 pistols made by SIG and consider them to be one of the best pistols for the money on the market today.
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I have a fairly early Sig C3 (aluminum frame, CCO-size) that I have never had a problem with past the first hundred rounds. However, Sig replaced the barrel because the Storm Lake barrel had been made with the grain going cross-way rather than along the length of the barrel. They evidently used a drop-in replacement because the bushing didn't seem as tight and the gun was never quite as accurate as it originally was. Still, not a bad gun.

In the mid-range, I think Springfield and Colt are the best options. It partly gets down to what options you want on the gun and how does it feel in your hand.

If you go up to the next level, Dan Wesson is the superior choice. They have a couple of models with a street price in the $1,200 range. Nice fit and finish, a first-rate trigger, and, if it matters to you, no MIM parts.

BTW, I have a Sig P220 Compact, single action only. It doesn't have as good a trigger as a decent 1911 but it's nothing to sneeze at.
 
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I just purchased the Sig 1911 Nightmare fastback carry.

This 1911 is a very nice 1911.
Shoots well... no problems at all.

And as far as RIA being junk... nope not even close. RIA is guaranteed for life...customer service is great... they are very reliable 1911.

You dont need to spend a butt load for a good 1911
 
KYJim, I had an SAO 220 Compact, couldn’t get used to the balance with the short grip, or the looks with the mag extensions. Still probably should have kept it. They are rare, and top quality.
 
I'll agree on Sig's P220. Mine is a German built model in satin nickle...a somewhat rare gun that I rarely carry. It's as accurate as my worked on Colts and the Sig RCS, but is truly a big gun. As a duty weapon, it's just fine, but too large in my estimation for EDC. Rod
 
Slamfire said:
Can't say a MIM frame is all that bad. The steel in the frame and slide is excellent in this application, far better than the plain carbon steels used in GI 1911's.
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I don't think anyone makes MIM frames. I don't think such a thing exists in the firearms industry. I believe you are confusing investment casting (which some makers use for frames) with metal injection molding (MIM), which is typically used for small parts such as thumb safeties, magazine catches, and slide locks.
 
I don't think anyone makes MIM frames. I don't think such a thing exists in the firearms industry. I believe you are confusing investment casting (which some makers use for frames) with metal injection molding (MIM), which is typically used for small parts such as thumb safeties, magazine catches, and slide locks.
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That is possible. I might have confused what the Customer Service representative said, he did say the smaller parts were MIM. He claimed the slides were "forged", and I don't believe that. I believe they are cut from bar stock. They could be forged, I would like them to be forged, but, we were just two idiots talking to each other on the phone, neither one of us had access to the manufacturing facility or Production Engineers.

And as far as RIA being junk... nope not even close. RIA is guaranteed for life...customer service is great... they are very reliable 1911.

You dont need to spend a butt load for a good 1911
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+1

I would still like an explanation of why Rock Island M1911's are junk. Mine may not have the features someone wants, but that does not mean they are junk.
 
I have a C3 built in 2014 or 2015, I can't really recall. It is a nice little shooter and I don't mind the external extractor; it works. It is unlikely you would ever have to replace it and no tuning is required. As someone else mentioned, the slide profile is squared up top and will require a specific holster. I have a crossbreed for mine. Good luck!

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I had a Sig Nitron Target. Fit was great, trigger was good, and very accurate. The only issue was that it was never 100% accurate. Failures to chamber was common as well as inertia feeds every now and then. After various fixes and different brands of mags, I finally traded it away. Don't miss it at all.
 
The firearms industry has given MIM a bad name . But blame that on the bean counters etc not the process. It has grown greatly since the 1970s .The parts are not just small and they can use many materials which can be Heat Treated like machined parts .
Get on Google Chrome and get lots of details !!
 
I have a Sig Tacops 1911 and a RIA 9mm/TCM 1911. The Sig is a tack driver and definitely has a much nicer look/feel, but the Rock most certainly is not junk. It has gone through 14k+ rounds and is still going strong. Only issue is obvious wear of the Parkerized finish. It is like my old beat up Toyota - looks worn but keeps running.

The Sig did require a few hundred rounds to "break-in", but it has worked very well since then - 7k+ rounds. Compared to the Rock, the Sig Nitron finish still looks new.

The biggest issue I have with the Sig is the unique slide contour. You need to specifically get holsters designed for Sig 1911s unless you have one of the traditional slide models.


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