Should I be using oil or grease for my guns?

Good observation. "Spinning", is one metal surface "sliding" over another albeit on curved surfaces. Friction is friction no matter it be angled, or zero angle. "Grease for sliding surfaces, oil for spinning", begs the question: Why then are wheel bearings (spinning), greased instead of oiled? Another relative question, what gun parts actually spin? Rotating for sure... curved surfaces, pins, etc., but spinning?
I use both oil and grease. Grease on my auto slides, sears, etc., because it is sticky as well as slippery...it seems to keep lubricating longer. However, on pins (rotating surfaces), or other tight, rotating surfaces, I use oil because the capillary action of the close fit between the pin and the hole(s) it fits in draws the oil into it saving me from disassembling it to apply grease.

I tend to use grease as an "assembly lube", applied to cleaned parts as the gun is assembled, so that even areas that can't be reached are sure to be lubed. Oil is then used to re-lube the areas that can be reached without stripping. Areas that can't be easily reached by me are also well shielded from firing residue and other junk, so I don't see much of a junk-attraction issue with grease.
Since grease doesn't "run off" or evaporate, my cleaned, assembled guns can be fired without further lube, whereas guns stored with only oil as lube are usually discovered to be unlubed after a surprisingly short stay in the safe.
 
Whenever this topic comes up I've seen just about everything short of Vaseline and Crisco recommended.
Vaseline was the recommended lube for Lugers.

I've used Crisco on blackpowder stuff. I use it on the chambers in a cap and ball revolver, and as a bullet lube on muzzleloaders. Often, I have used it as all all around lube, since I have it all over the gun anyway.

So, now we have everything including Crisco and Vaseline recommended.
 
I've used CLP, Hoppe's, and Mobil 10W-30 synthetic. Can't tell a bit of difference between them in terms of function, or corrosion resistance.
 
Castrol Syntec 10W-40 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil for everything.

From hot to cold never had an issue.
Even when shooting any of my 1911 pistols hard and heavy I never had an issue.
 
If you are a greaser you need to wipe it off and put on fresh. Break open shotgun hinges and surfaces that contact get grease. Wipe it clean and re-grease. If you are not religious about cleaning your guns, skip the grease you need to use Tri Flow. This advice from one of the best Perazzi shotgun techs Mr. Giacomo.

Rem oil is good for moisture removal and really it is ok, better than nothing as a lubricant. Tri Flow is all I use on pistols and rifles.
 
Lubes are more for preventing rust and corrosion than for lubricating. Grease is great for long term storage, but in most cases should be cleaned off before using. A light motor oil 10W30 5W40 works well, stays on, and usually will not inhibit movement of parts in cold weather. Most greases turn into road tar when they get cold. I use Rem oil more as a cleaner and to coat hard to get to, small moving parts, but I like something a little thicker on external parts. If I were going hutning in extreme cold though, Rem oil is the thickest lube I would use on any part.
 
geetarman,

I use Lubriplate 130-A.

Got a can of it years ago and have found it to be excellent not only on guns but many other uses such as fishing reels or other parts being used in possibly damp conditions.

Too, I like to use Permatex 'copper' anti seize/lubricant on threaded screws/bp nipples/breach plugs etc. But am sure the aluminum or copper Lubriplate would work just as well.

AFAIK, the suggested application between using copper versus aluminum based lubricants/anti-seizes is the heat the part is being used in. I used to use aluminum based anti-seize/lubricant(simply cause I happen to have a tube of it) which is recommended for application in heat ranges well exceeding the temps. my guns would ever get to. When I ran out and bought some more, it was copper based.

One thing I learned for sure is when using the aluminum or copper based stuff is that you WILL get it all over , it is hard to remove from unwanted areas and it will stain many fabric items.
 
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I have used a couple different oils over the years. Used the M-Pro 7 system, it works pretty well. Recently I've been using Hoppes cleaner and some engine oil. Last time I cleaned my handguns I put grease on the slide rails and they move SOOO much smoother just hand cycling them. My Dad bought some Frog Lube and forgot it at my place, thinking about borrowing some for my carry guns.
 
If you are doing variations of temperature, . . . get a quart of synthetic motor oil.

It'll last you several years, . . . doesn't run off like regular motor oil, . . . is not affected hardly at all by major temperature swings, . . . and FWIW, . . . it doesn't stink like Valvoline.

It's what I run on basically all of mine, . . . .22's thru the big boy stuff, . . . pistols, revolvers, rifles, shotguns, . . . no trouble at all.

May God bless,
Dwight

What weight of oil do you use ?
 
Is a basic oil lubricant enough.... generally yes, although I am not a huge rem oil fan. Some guns recommend grease, the M1 Garand was one I believe (if it rotates oil it, if it slides grease it) most guns recommend oil. I prefer a light coating of grease on my metal framed gun rails (1911, P226 etc.) Just feels like it runs smoother to me and its a high wear area. I pretty much use oil everywhere else. Unless your running your gun hard on a regular basis, with as good as modern lubricants are, I don't expect you will see much difference in wear between oil and grease.
 
RickB said:
Whenever this topic comes up I've seen just about everything short of Vaseline and Crisco recommended.
Vaseline was the recommended lube for Lugers.
And whale oil was the recommended lubricant for the original M1911. Good luck finding whale oil ... at least we can still buy Vaseline.
 
I use a small amount of high temperature wheel bearing grease. One can will last more than a lifetime. I use it very, very sparingly.
 
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