Shot from a black powder revolver
- Thread starter brushhippie
- Start date
Rifleman1776
New member
We used to have a colorful character living in our area. He would put on a 'hillbilly' act for tourists. Part of his gig was to make bets with tourists that he could shoot an asprin out of the air with his replica C&B revolver. He did every time. He used shot and loaded simply with tissue paper. It can be done.
deerslayer303
New member
Neat Thread, thanks for all the info and posts. But I must admit my first thought was "Imagine the shot you could get into a Walker cylinder" 
I may just have to try this out! But for your 36 cal would like a #8 or #9 shot be better? As you could get more pellets into the cylinder, just a thought
I may just have to try this out! But for your 36 cal would like a #8 or #9 shot be better? As you could get more pellets into the cylinder, just a thoughtbrushhippie
Moderator
You gotta try that with the Walker and let us know! There are lots of combinations to try as far as different shot sizes and powder loads...Ill get to em eventually!
I've used a Walker for no.9 shot and rabbits. Have to be a few feet distance. About 12 max. maybe.
To get more bird shot in a chamber use less room for powder by using Goex FFFFg or 777 FFFg and vegetable fiber wads like the Blackpowder cartdiges use. They are stiff and a little big fer cap&ball chambers so they stay put. Cabelas has them.
Cool way to set up a Walker .....get a Kirst conversion cylinder for 45 Colt.
Go one further and ream the chambers longer for 460 S&W but still use the manufacturers recommended charge for 45 Colt.....just use the longer 460 S&W case to get more birdshot in. Use a hot powder like the Goex FFFFg or 777 FFFg. Or even Pyrodex Pistol that's hotter than Goex.
I read in the Dixie Gunworks catalog years ago that if your birdshot penetrates a tin can then it's good to go fer game at the distance the shot can penetrate the can.
A Walker can be trimmed down in weight by taking off the loading lever and grinding and filling away the steel where the loading lever was fixed.Make it shaped like a Paterson barrel.
One other way is to simply get the conversion from Kirst fer a 45 Scholfield to use in the 1860 Army. Use the conversion cylinder and the commercial birdshot cups by Speer to load some shot. Using smokeless powder the 45 Scholfield and the Speer plastic shotcups would work well.
The rifling can be removed from a barrel and the muzzle swagged down fer a choke.
A gunsmith or anyone can make a block of steel with a hole drilled in it that would slip tight on the muzzle end of the barrel. Cut the blockin half thru the center of the hole. That removes enough steel so when the two halves are put around the muzzle and clamped in a vice the muzzle is swagged smaller for a choke. The steelblock drilled and split would need to be a carbon steel that can be hardened. Take into account the barrel is probably tapered and the "51" is octagon....so the muzzle end would need be turned round.
The front sight would have to be removed to swag but....a shotgun bead could be put backon easy enough. Weld the slot where the blade was and file it then drill and tap fer a shotgun bead. Small brass one.
That Hoof Hearted or the venerable Raven (Gunsmiths) over at CASS Forum would do the rifling remove and the choke fer someone ifin you told them how you wanted it done.
I'd do it but.....I'm gettin too tired and old. han ha ha ha Too many irons in my fire right now.
Personally I'd go the easier route and get the conversion cylinder for the 1860 Army or even the 1851 Navy since reloading with the 45 or 38 Speer shotcups is easy and smokeless powder leaves room fer shot. With the Speer shot cups in the brass their may still be enough room fer black powder or a sub if the hot FFFFg Goex or the hot 777 FFFg is used.
Personally I'd like to use smokeless powder to shoot shot even though I've used the black fer that. I'd use smokeless Red Dot in the brass and the conversion cylinder since Red Dot is a shotgun poder and......with the conversion cylinders and the bird shot the revolvers would be revolving shotguns. Colt did make revolving shotguns backin the day. ha ha ha ha
Anywhooooo.......the longer the barrel the better with the blackpowder but.....using the conversion cylinders and the brass and the Speer shotcups and smokeless the guns can be "snubbiized fer carrying in a pocket.
I've lopped the heads offa snakes with the little CCI 22cal shot ammo shot from my Ruger Single six with the 9 inch barrel. The 45 Colt CCI Ammo with the shot is pretty danged plenty fer snakes.
To get more bird shot in a chamber use less room for powder by using Goex FFFFg or 777 FFFg and vegetable fiber wads like the Blackpowder cartdiges use. They are stiff and a little big fer cap&ball chambers so they stay put. Cabelas has them.
Cool way to set up a Walker .....get a Kirst conversion cylinder for 45 Colt.
Go one further and ream the chambers longer for 460 S&W but still use the manufacturers recommended charge for 45 Colt.....just use the longer 460 S&W case to get more birdshot in. Use a hot powder like the Goex FFFFg or 777 FFFg. Or even Pyrodex Pistol that's hotter than Goex.
I read in the Dixie Gunworks catalog years ago that if your birdshot penetrates a tin can then it's good to go fer game at the distance the shot can penetrate the can.
A Walker can be trimmed down in weight by taking off the loading lever and grinding and filling away the steel where the loading lever was fixed.Make it shaped like a Paterson barrel.
One other way is to simply get the conversion from Kirst fer a 45 Scholfield to use in the 1860 Army. Use the conversion cylinder and the commercial birdshot cups by Speer to load some shot. Using smokeless powder the 45 Scholfield and the Speer plastic shotcups would work well.
The rifling can be removed from a barrel and the muzzle swagged down fer a choke.
A gunsmith or anyone can make a block of steel with a hole drilled in it that would slip tight on the muzzle end of the barrel. Cut the blockin half thru the center of the hole. That removes enough steel so when the two halves are put around the muzzle and clamped in a vice the muzzle is swagged smaller for a choke. The steelblock drilled and split would need to be a carbon steel that can be hardened. Take into account the barrel is probably tapered and the "51" is octagon....so the muzzle end would need be turned round.
The front sight would have to be removed to swag but....a shotgun bead could be put backon easy enough. Weld the slot where the blade was and file it then drill and tap fer a shotgun bead. Small brass one.
That Hoof Hearted or the venerable Raven (Gunsmiths) over at CASS Forum would do the rifling remove and the choke fer someone ifin you told them how you wanted it done.
I'd do it but.....I'm gettin too tired and old. han ha ha ha Too many irons in my fire right now.
Personally I'd go the easier route and get the conversion cylinder for the 1860 Army or even the 1851 Navy since reloading with the 45 or 38 Speer shotcups is easy and smokeless powder leaves room fer shot. With the Speer shot cups in the brass their may still be enough room fer black powder or a sub if the hot FFFFg Goex or the hot 777 FFFg is used.
Personally I'd like to use smokeless powder to shoot shot even though I've used the black fer that. I'd use smokeless Red Dot in the brass and the conversion cylinder since Red Dot is a shotgun poder and......with the conversion cylinders and the bird shot the revolvers would be revolving shotguns. Colt did make revolving shotguns backin the day. ha ha ha ha
Anywhooooo.......the longer the barrel the better with the blackpowder but.....using the conversion cylinders and the brass and the Speer shotcups and smokeless the guns can be "snubbiized fer carrying in a pocket.
I've lopped the heads offa snakes with the little CCI 22cal shot ammo shot from my Ruger Single six with the 9 inch barrel. The 45 Colt CCI Ammo with the shot is pretty danged plenty fer snakes.
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