Shooting Glock with plated bullets = jam?

Are you seating and crimping in one step? If so this could be the problem since the bullet is continuing seating as the crimp is applied possibly scraping the copper plating loose. Try seating and crimping in separate steps if this is the case.
 
My understanding of this thread's updates.
With further, and probably important info from the OP, the ammo is indeed "reloaded" or otherwise loaded by the OP, himself.

Also, whether the ammo works well in a Hi-Power ("HP" for short; a FEG Hi-Power, btw, not an FN/Browning) seems to me to be inaccurate, as the OP further clarified the HP hasn't been feeding 100% lately with "nosedives" for an unknown reason.

My opinion is, and the OP isn't the only one to have done this, the comments regarding Glock being picky about ammo feeding and the OP being unimpressed, is mostly showing the OP's frustration and disappointment with the entire situation.

I don't know what the OP paid for this new Glock, but whatever it cost, it was probably some multiple of hundreds of dollars. I totally understand the disappointment and hurt when I've spent hundreds (sometimes, for me, thousands) of dollars and then whatever I've bought isn't working 100%.:(

I also get somewhat butt-hurt when I hear someone (unfairly) talking badly about Glock, as it's one of my favorite brands. To repeat something I said earlier, some folks get really attached to their particular self-loaded ammo (I hesitate to use the word "reload" as to me, this implies some component, usually the casing, was previously used/loaded). In these instances, when the ammo doesn't work in a new gun, the person often blames the new gun instead of merely trying brand-name-factory FMJ ammo. I'm not an ammo (re)loader and I've never had that emotional attachment to ammo. As a long-time Glock owner/shooter/user (almost 30 years with Glocks now) I have the opposite feelings of, if the Glock and ammo aren't working, I'd initially suspect the ammo. I actually don't know how many Glocks I've had; maybe 20 over the years, and I've just bought another today.

OK, carry on everyone, although this has turned more into an ammunition reloading thread, but we've still not even seen pics of the ammo or this (alleged) plating/lead build-up in the barrel.
 
I also get somewhat butt-hurt when I hear someone (unfairly) talking badly about Glock, as it's one of my favorite brands.
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Understandable. My initial feelings were akin to betrayal, like I had been duped. Glock is supposed to equal perfection. That is one reason why I bought it, it was supposed to be one thing I could completely depend on to go BANG with each and every trigger pull, regardless.
 
MuzzleBlast said:
Understandable. My initial feelings were akin to betrayal, like I had been duped. Glock is supposed to equal perfection. That is one reason why I bought it, it was supposed to be one thing I could completely depend on to go BANG with each and every trigger pull, regardless.
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I suggest you get a EGW cartridge gauge, or a gauge of your choosing. I run all my hand loads through, since my ammo is shot through a couple guns to make sure it will feed and function reliably. Ammo set up for one gun, may or may not work in another. One that is set up on a gauge should work in any gun. https://www.egwguns.com/case-gauge-ammo-checker-9-mm-7-hole
 
Gauges are good, my present 9mm cartridge gauge is a Lyman because Wilson was out of stock. I have one of those EGW 4 caliber gauges and it is tighter than either Lyman, Wilson, or Dillon. I think tighter than necessary, I have had rounds fail EGW, pass Lyman, plunk in a gun barrel and shoot normally.

The cheap way is to take the barrel out of the gun, clean it, and "plunk" cartridges in the chamber they will be shot from.

See Post #9, pull some bullets and look for damage to plating.
 
Jim Watson said:
Gauges are good, my present 9mm cartridge gauge is a Lyman because Wilson was out of stock. I have one of those EGW 4 caliber gauges and it is tighter than either Lyman, Wilson, or Dillon. I think tighter than necessary, I have had rounds fail EGW, pass Lyman, plunk in a gun barrel and shoot normally.

The cheap way is to take the barrel out of the gun, clean it, and "plunk" cartridges in the chamber they will be shot from.

See Post #9, pull some bullets and look for damage to plating.
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True, a plunk test will work, but when using the ammo in multiple guns, it makes things a bit more complicated. I agree the EGW is a touch tighter, but seeing as my 9mm ammo goes through several guns, I prefer that tighter spec to ensure reliability. Also I have the 50 cartridge gauge from EGW because I check EVERY round that comes off my progressive. But any of the big names should do just fine.
 
I also shoot my hand loads through multiple guns, but I know which one has the tightest chamber and is the most finicky and that’s the one I use for a plunk test. I also take it a step further and set my OAL in the one with the shortest throat, then load up five dummies and cycle them through all my semi’s to be sure they will cycle reliably. I then set one dummy aside and mark it with the specific bullet used for setting my seating die in the future with this particular bullet. At this point I start working up my loads being mindful of avoiding a compressed load.
 
Jim Watson said:
Gauges are good, my present 9mm cartridge gauge is a Lyman because Wilson was out of stock. I have one of those EGW 4 caliber gauges and it is tighter than either Lyman, Wilson, or Dillon. I think tighter than necessary, I have had rounds fail EGW, pass Lyman, plunk in a gun barrel and shoot normally.

The cheap way is to take the barrel out of the gun, clean it, and "plunk" cartridges in the chamber they will be shot from.

See Post #9, pull some bullets and look for damage to plating.
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I swapped to Lee crimp die. It full body sizes the case as it crimps. Assuming I have seat depth right, of it goes through that crimp die, it will fit a SAAMI chamber.
 
Update: I was able to get to the range with 150 rnds FMJ and 100 plated. The FMJ's are still reloads, because I refuse to pay .50 a pop for 9mm. I checked all of them using the "plunk" test, and found a couple that did not chamber completely. All happily fed, chambered, fired, extracted and ejected.

Conclusions: Gotta check 'em all if you are reloading. In my defense, it has been well over a decade since I have felt the need to reload 9mm. It has just been too cheap to make reloading worth it.

I owe an apology to any Glock faithful I may have irritated.
 
Muzzleblast-I'm sure you are well aware there are many folk that lurk these posts and as one of them I'd like to thank you for coming back and posting your new info.
 
I owe an apology to any Glock faithful I may have irritated.
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Not in my opinion. It was a good question and, I think, the process of getting to the answer provided information that will likely be useful to some of the folks who read the thread.
 
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