Semi-newbie reloading questions

P

powrguy

Moderator
I've probably loaded about 1000-1500 rounds, or more, and am very careful, methodic, and focused when I reload, and I have only been reloading .223. Previously, I had loaded 300 AAC blackout, when I got into that, but have abandoned that caliber and rifle.

I use a Lee classic turret press, and have set up two 4-hole bases. One is strictly set up to de-cap and re-size, and the other is for loading and factory crimping. I use Lee dies.

I use a Lee balance beam scale (previously used an M-T-M digital, but it was a pain to get it to CONSISTENTLY measure accurately). With the balance beam, I am assured of consistent round-to-round measurements, and have settled on a projectile/primer/powder load that works in my rifle.

I also use the Lee perfect powder measure (the cheapy that mounts with two screws to the benchtop).

My process is thus:

1) Collect brass that only I have fired, for re-loading, from my range visits
2) Inspect each case before processing
3) De-cap all used brass
4) Tumble all brass in stainless media wet tumbler, then blow dry with compressed air
5) Lube (Hornady One Shot lube) and then rezize
6) Check re-sized brass in a Wilson case gauge
7) Trim all the brass (some may not need re-trimming, but Icheck each case anyway), then de-bur inside and out
8) Using a Hornady primer pocket reamer, ream all primer pockets as needed
9) Clean cases in corn cob media with Nu-Finish added in a tumbler
10) Hand prime each case with a Lee old-school hand primer (not the newer style, but the one with the round primer plastic bin)
11) Weigh each powder load on the balance scale, and load 50 rounds at a time in a cartridge holder that came from used 9mm ammo I've shot
12) Take the 50 rounds (or multiple of 50 rounds that I'm loading in the batch) and install the bullets and crimp them, checking initially that the OAL is what I've been using with good results on these (2.20 OAL, +/- .01). As I load, I check to make sure there's powder in the case, then mount and seat the bullet.


That's my current process, and my questions now are whether it would be cost-effective to reload 9mm.

I have a 9mm die set (Lee), but it's not carbide, and I know that with carbide, I would not have to be lubing the cases in the process to re-size. Is carbide the way to go?

I don't currently use the auto-dispenser for the powder, OR, the auto-prime, either.

I am more comfortable doing hand priming, and hand dispensing the powder in my .223 process, but with 9mm pistol rounds, would using the disk and auto-powder loading, plus the auto-prime be the best way to do it?

Is it even cost-effective reloading 9mm?

I would be loading for practice and paper-punching, not for my EDC and my HD rounds (I use Federal HST for that).

I probably average about 100 rounds of 9mm shooting per week, if that helps on my use purpose.



thanks
 
Powrguy,

your loading process appears safe and normal...I didn`t see any major problems with your listed process.

Yes carbide dies for straight wall pistol cases will speed up the process.

Yes, reloading for the 9m/m can be cost effective if you watch prices on powder and bullets...there are several good options for casual target or just plinking. You can save your speer gold dots for defense loads.

You don't say if your 223 is a bolt gun, or semi auto...If semi auto, you might want to invest in the RCBS precision Mic to make sure the reloads will chamber in your gun before going to the range...It will save you a lot of foreward assist time on your AR, and might prevent bigger problems if you have a Mini 14.

Good luck!!!
 
223 reloads

It's a 5.56 carbine length AR15. Beteween the Wilson case gauge, and then the bullet seated to an OAL of the cartridge to 2.20, I've not had any feed or ejection issues so far. I've been using BLC-2, and CCI 400 primers.
 
Have you checked the online sources for bulk 9mm prices?
Some of it, especially the steel cased stuff, doesn't cost much more than reloading.
If it works in your gun to your satisfaction, that is.
 
9mm reloading questions

I've continuously watched the 9mm sale prices and bulk ammo prices.

Usually, I've had good luck with the Freedom Munitions 115gr reloads, for my plinking/practice ammo. I prefer brass cases, and am not a fan of steel-cased 9mm (or aluminum cased), and I've been saving the 9mm brass just in case I want to reload, or just to sell if I decide not to reload.

Price-point is probably in the .20/rd. cost to compare to reloading myself. I don't think .02-.05 is worth my time to reload, IMHO, but wanted to hear what others say. I know you can "cast your own bullets" and save, but the added hassle of procuring lead and the lead melting/casting supplies make it even less attractive to me.
 
5) Lube (Hornady One Shot lube) and then rezize
Click to expand...

Be sure to use according to instructions to get the most out of the lube. One Shot is not the slickest case lube out there and has been blamed for cases stuck in the die.

I reload 9mm not to save money but to get loads that are not regularly manufactured, mostly tailored for IDPA competition and practice.

I load in bulk on a Dillon 550 progressive and depend on its volumetric powder measure. I check weigh when I start a session and when I refill the primer feed or powder measure.

If you have a plain steel Lee sizing die, it must be OLD, I have never seen one.
Perhaps you could show a picture of the mouth of the die, the insert might not be obvious.
A Lee carbide die is only $25. I still use a LIGHT spritz of spray lube to ease the sizing stroke, little enough that I don't have to reclean the finished ammo.
 
I reload 9 mm for around 16 cents of components. Other folks have reported somewhat lower costs, but primers seem to be high in my area.

It hasn't been said yet, and forgive me if that is because it is obvious, but reloading 9 mm isn't nearly as laborious as your process for the rifle. I tumble the brass, run it through each of the four dies on the LCT (properly adjusted, of course), weigh charges at the beginning and end of the run and every 5 to 10 rounds in between, and then check the finished rounds in a gage. Starting with clean brass and working at a comfortable pace, it takes me 20 to 25 minutes to make a box on the LCT.
 
Cost effective it seems

That wouldn't be a bad way to go, then, for me.

I usually load only about 50-100 rounds at a time, using my single-stage methods.

I haven't used the auto-prime, or the auto-powder on the LCT, but could get a turret plate set up for strictly 9mm, and then crank out 50-100 rounds and weigh/length-check periodically to assure consistency. I may just try that, after I spring for some carbide dies (to eliminate the case lubing chore).

thanks
 
I reload 9mm too. I can do about 13 cents a round with plated or cast bullets. I can do even better if I cast my own bullets, but I can't.

-TL
 
Only you can decide whether it is worth your time. For me, saving money per round loaded is just a bonus. I enjoy reloading and like the idea of not being dependent on the supply of factory ammo or the fluctuation of prices due to world events or the prevailing political climate. My cost for 9mm target ammo is $.15/round. That is with 124 gn plated HP bullet from X-Treme, CCI primer and HP-38 powder. I can't say how that compares in quality to bulk ammo, but in my tests with various factory ammo, my handloads are slightly more accurate. Not a big deal if your just punching paper. I also use the LCT (with Auto Drum pm and safety prime) and can safely produce 180 rounds of 9mm in one hour, so for me that would be like somebody paying me $9 an hour to do something I enjoy.
 
The question of "saving money" is only relevant when supplies are at the level we are seeing today. As soon as something tragic happens and our government starts scarring/threatening it's populous (again), you'll be very happy that you have resources that others do not.

I stopped calculating the cost per round many moons ago and haven't purchased ammunition in a very long time. What I care about is gaining ample supplies at reasonable prices.

As for 9mm, I would definitely invest in the Lee Carbide dies. I own the 4 piece set, includes a crimp die. Although 9mm doesn't require a crimp, if I happen to oversize a case, the crimp die resolves the issue and the round is viable.

I have essentially the same set up as you, except 3 hole press. Question; why are you cleaning your brass twice? I de-prime, resize and test with the Wilson case gauge, measure and trim cases if necessary, clean the pockets, then off to a vibrating cleaner with zilla (crushed walnut) for 2 1/2 hours. I dump my brass into a storage bin until I'm ready to load. It seems you're spending some extra time with the second cleaning. Also, a crimp is not required for 2.23/5.56. There are numerous posts where you'll find a variety of opinions on the matter. Try skipping the step and see if your results are any better or worse. Rifle certainly is an exercise in patience, don't want to spend more time than necessary when you could be on the range.

Best of luck.
 
Crimping .223

Yeah; I guess I've read every possible opinion on crimping the .223 reloads. I just do a light crimp, for consitency-sake, I guess.

On the double cleaning of the brass, though, the range brass is picked up off the ground, and there's no assurance that sand, burnt powder, etc. is not gonna scratch up the dies, I think. Likewise, I like to de-prime as a separate step, then clean the cases to clean the primer pockets that way, too.

After sizing and trimming, the final cleaning before priming assure clean cases with lube removed and any brass shavings also removed.

With the 9mm done on the LCT in a progressive-style reloading setup, I guess I would still clean twice, but the automated sequence (especially the auto-prime and auto powder drop) would speed up the process.

One of the main reasons I started reloading the rifle cartridges was to effect cost savings and shoot more, AND, when I need ammo, I don't have to worry about another Obamanation-caused run on ammo and not finding it on the shelves when I want it. That's (un-availability) another reason I'm considering getting into 9mm reloading.



thanks
 
OK, so you got me going and it bugged me enough to do the math...

Lead rounds:
Case = Free, Primer = Free, 5 grains Longshot = $.0182, 115 gr powder coated bullet (Missouri)= $.069. Total cost per round = $.0872

Defense rounds:
Case = Free, Primer = Free, 4 grains Longshot = $.0132, 147 gr Hornady XTP bullet = $.257. Total cost per round = $.27

Primers are "free" as I use credit card reward points to redeem Cabela gift cards. Whenever I have enough I run up to the store and buy either pistol or rifle primers.
 
I wouldn't call the primers free. You could have used the credit to buy something else you need.

Say we get a few hundred dollars of Costco amex rebate every year. If I take the cash and buy primers, powder, bullets, and load up a bunch of 9mm, I can't call them absolutely free, can I?

Anyway, primers are $0.03 a piece.

-TL
 
Steel case ammo is not 'green'. Brass is reuseable, stick with that.

You will save money reloading. Get some dies and build some.
 
You can definitely load 9mm cheaper if casting your own bullets. Last I figured, it costs me about $3.75-$4.00 for 50 rounds, less than .22 LR. I use carbide dies for 9mm, but I lube the cases anyhow. You can tell it is easier on the press and insurance against a stuck case. YMMV:)
 
Giving it a try

Well, I bought 1750 once-fired 9mm brass (.03/ea.), and figure to pick up small pistol primers today (.035/ea.), and a pound of Bullseye or something close to it (figure about 1500 rounds or more, at .025/rd.), and 1000 9mm 115gr "pulls" at .04/ea.)

Based on my crude estimate, rounds should cost about .13-.15/rd.

I'll see how it goes on the LCT press, and I still decap first, then wet tumble, then start the process of reloading. I like the idea of clean cases before they go through the carbide dies, and, the primer pockets get cleaned that way, too.

That's my plan.
 
I decap and tumble my 9mm first . because the cases already have primers removed you can remove the decapping rod from your FL sizing die . You then can prime the cases before you size them and run the cases through all 4 stations of your LCT press with the new primers in ( only if no lube is used ) . If you pick up a Lee auto drum powder measure http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-autodrum-powder-measure . You can size , flare and drop powder , seat bullet then crimp in 4 simple pulls of the handle .
 
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9mm reloading

Yeah; I decap before I wet tumble, to clean the primer pockets, and on the .223, I have a die I use just for de-capping...I may do the same for the 9mm, and then use the sizing die with auto-prime, auto-disk powder measure, bullet seat, then factory crimp die, as my process.

Since the 9mm doesn't get trimmed, I probably will go without the 2nd tumbling, I think.

My issue now, in NE Ohio, is trying to find small pistol primers for sale....they are looking to real hard to find around here right now, and HazMat fees are prohibitive to buy just 1000 at a time, and I don't really want to "stock up" on 5000 primers, and 8# jugs of powder.
 
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