Scope Adjustment

UPDATE: I pulled the scope off and measured the rings and they were both the same, I did however swap them around just to see if that made a difference. I went out today (6-24-17) and shot again. After swaping the rings I ran into the same problem again. I took a coke can and cut some shims out to put under the rear of the scope to see if that would help. I ended up having to put 5 shims between (under the scope body) scope body and rear ring and 5 between (on top of the scope body) scope body and front ring. By doing this I was able to get enough vertical adjustment to get the rifle zeroed at 100 yards.

With all this being said I believe that I need to change rails to a 20 MOA cant or maybe even higher, and then continue to save up and then get another scope with more internal adjustment for longer ranges.

Any other suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Get rid of the rail. Mount a wind-age (adjustable rear mount.) and appropriate front mount if two pcs and Rings. Count the scopes turns stop to stop in the Horizontal adjustment. Split the difference dial the knob too and leave there. Do the same with your Vertical adjustment. (count split the difference dial too and leave set) Shoot the rifle for effect than adjust the wind-age adjustable mount as close to bullseye center as possible. Fire for effect.
High or low on paper is not a problem just so long as bullet impact is centered with bullseye above or below on paper. Than adjust your scopes Horzontal & Vertical turn knobs on the highest power your scope is capable of. Fire for effect. Check the scopes Low power and tweak the scopes adjustments a little if needed. Fire for effect. Do a second check of the High power to see its now fully adjusted point of impact. Fire for effect. If you like the accuracy your scope is showing its now sighted in.
 
You should never place shims between the scope and inside of the ring.
You're creating a situation where you've made the rings out-of-round (and canting the scope as well) and it will not correctly fit the rings- it will have only a small point of contact there and you risk deforming the scope tube.

Scope rings must be identical and aligned- which is why we lap them into alignment when needed.

Place any shims required under the base- not between the rings and optic. Even this isn't ideal because the holes in the base have limited clearance with the screw shanks and you're inserting a screw vertically though a canted hole- but it will work with limited shim thickness.
 
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