Saw a Glock 21 kB! today
- Thread starter Chipperman
- Start date
the duck of death,
*sigh* Speaking of reading posts carefully, that's why in my last post I said "I believe you, but take a look at that picture: you're not the only person who's done "side by sides". Note that a SIGpro 2340 and a P-226 .40 are two different guns, and measurements like that can vary slightly from gun to gun, too."
Stop and think about how I got the picture and the serial numbers off the guns and the measurements in the first place...
*sigh* Speaking of reading posts carefully, that's why in my last post I said "I believe you, but take a look at that picture: you're not the only person who's done "side by sides". Note that a SIGpro 2340 and a P-226 .40 are two different guns, and measurements like that can vary slightly from gun to gun, too."
Stop and think about how I got the picture and the serial numbers off the guns and the measurements in the first place...
Master Blaster
New member
I bought a 686+ manufactured in July of 1998, I have shot both full house jacketed commercial ammo out of it maybe 500 rounds, and about 2000 rounds of lead that I reloaded with 4.0 grains of titegroup and a 158 gr. LSWC. The lead load is the most accurate, its a target load (subsonic) and I can get 1 big hole with 7 rounds at 25 yards from a sandbag rest.
The lead bullets are sized .357, same as the ones I shoot in my 1967 model 27-2. No they have not changed the rifling size its still the same as in 67.
Blackhawk,
Your profile says you don't want e-mail. Can you e-mail me about your question?
Jim
keenanj@xecu.net
Your profile says you don't want e-mail. Can you e-mail me about your question?
Jim
keenanj@xecu.net
Appears as if this guy was trying to save soime bucks by shooting lead in a factory Glock barrel.
Most reloaders know better.
Otherwise, he either squibbed or double charged.
You can shoot lead with a $70 federal arms barrel or spend $200 for a Bar Sto or whatever.
It's going to happen with all of those Glocks out there.
Most reloaders know better.
Otherwise, he either squibbed or double charged.
You can shoot lead with a $70 federal arms barrel or spend $200 for a Bar Sto or whatever.
It's going to happen with all of those Glocks out there.
dawg23,
"Bottom Line- if you are foolish enough to shoot reloads of ANY description, just to save a few pennies, you're asking for trouble. Glock says "don't" - Beretta says "don't" - which part is it that you don't understand ??"
One with so little understanding should not be offering advice to others.
"Bottom Line- if you are foolish enough to shoot reloads of ANY description, just to save a few pennies, you're asking for trouble. Glock says "don't" - Beretta says "don't" - which part is it that you don't understand ??"
One with so little understanding should not be offering advice to others.
Guys relax:
We know the Glock is 'perfection' but 'accidents' do happen.
I wrote extensively on a previous thread about why the Glocks have a greater tendency to KB! You can research if interested. In summary Glock's barrel/chamber design allows greater case expansion, and esp. with reloads which would have already had an expanded case (however slight) this case might rupture. It is this barrel design however which gives Glock's its legendary feeding reliability. Hey, you can't have it all hence Glock's warning about shooting factory loads.
Contrary to some opinions stated here, polygonal barrels can shoot lead but will foul up quicker than traditional rifled barrels. This is because polygonal barrels strips lead bullets. This can become dangerous due to increased internal barrel pressures.
The quality of lead bullets that you use will determine how quickly the barrel is fouled.
SO YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL AND KEEP THE BARREL CLEAN WHEN SHOOTING LEAD. THIS MIGHT REQUIRE FREQUENT AND SOMETIMES DIFFICULT CLEANING WHICH A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE NOT UP TO SO. IF YOU ARE ONE SUCH PERSON PLAY IT SAFE AND AVOID LEAD BULLETS IN POLYGONAL BARRELS!
We know the Glock is 'perfection' but 'accidents' do happen.
I wrote extensively on a previous thread about why the Glocks have a greater tendency to KB! You can research if interested. In summary Glock's barrel/chamber design allows greater case expansion, and esp. with reloads which would have already had an expanded case (however slight) this case might rupture. It is this barrel design however which gives Glock's its legendary feeding reliability. Hey, you can't have it all hence Glock's warning about shooting factory loads.
Contrary to some opinions stated here, polygonal barrels can shoot lead but will foul up quicker than traditional rifled barrels. This is because polygonal barrels strips lead bullets. This can become dangerous due to increased internal barrel pressures.
The quality of lead bullets that you use will determine how quickly the barrel is fouled.
SO YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL AND KEEP THE BARREL CLEAN WHEN SHOOTING LEAD. THIS MIGHT REQUIRE FREQUENT AND SOMETIMES DIFFICULT CLEANING WHICH A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE NOT UP TO SO. IF YOU ARE ONE SUCH PERSON PLAY IT SAFE AND AVOID LEAD BULLETS IN POLYGONAL BARRELS!
I do marvel at the logic that is sometimes displayed here...SLOWER POWDER
I constantly see where reloaders are urged to use the various fast burn rate powders for reloading semi-auto handguns. I use the slowest powder that I can get decent velocities out of. Also this precludes a double charge, because it would overflow the case. The slower burn rate powders have a flatter pressure curve, so they tend to be safer when it comes to bulging cases or ruptures.
When I started a couple months ago to reload for my M22 glock, I looked at my powder supply for a likely candidate for it. I had a 5 pounder of SR 4756 I had bought for steel shotshells. The advent of Alliant steel powder had pushed that to the back of the powder box. It makes an excellent powder for the 165 gr. west coast bullets. 7.2 grains gives me1,075 fps. and is easy on the brass.
Dawg;
I agree with whoever said he don't want any pistol he CAN"T reload for. If I had to buy only factory ammo for mine, I couldn't shoot, PERIOD. Congratulations on having a good job so you can afford to shoot only factory shells. I'm sure the owner of where ever you buy your shells is glad to see you coming.
A fellow on glock talk calls himself signifigant, is a wizz at programing computers. He went to a lot of work on a spreadsheet for figureing relading cost. He then offered it to anyone to download free. I input my costs for my .40 reloads and came up with $4.53 per box of 50. At that cost I can practice a lot and shoot as many matches as I can make it to. Go to http://www.glocktalk.com/ and click on the reloading category. Then look for a thread by signifigant about a reloading cost spread sheet. He has a tab on the spreadsheet for printing neat labels for your boxes. It uses avery 2 x 4 address labels.
I constantly see where reloaders are urged to use the various fast burn rate powders for reloading semi-auto handguns. I use the slowest powder that I can get decent velocities out of. Also this precludes a double charge, because it would overflow the case. The slower burn rate powders have a flatter pressure curve, so they tend to be safer when it comes to bulging cases or ruptures.
When I started a couple months ago to reload for my M22 glock, I looked at my powder supply for a likely candidate for it. I had a 5 pounder of SR 4756 I had bought for steel shotshells. The advent of Alliant steel powder had pushed that to the back of the powder box. It makes an excellent powder for the 165 gr. west coast bullets. 7.2 grains gives me1,075 fps. and is easy on the brass.
Dawg;
I agree with whoever said he don't want any pistol he CAN"T reload for. If I had to buy only factory ammo for mine, I couldn't shoot, PERIOD. Congratulations on having a good job so you can afford to shoot only factory shells. I'm sure the owner of where ever you buy your shells is glad to see you coming.
A fellow on glock talk calls himself signifigant, is a wizz at programing computers. He went to a lot of work on a spreadsheet for figureing relading cost. He then offered it to anyone to download free. I input my costs for my .40 reloads and came up with $4.53 per box of 50. At that cost I can practice a lot and shoot as many matches as I can make it to. Go to http://www.glocktalk.com/ and click on the reloading category. Then look for a thread by signifigant about a reloading cost spread sheet. He has a tab on the spreadsheet for printing neat labels for your boxes. It uses avery 2 x 4 address labels.
There is no problem with loading jacketed bullets, but many of us prefer to use lead. There are a number of reasons, but obviously I can only give you my reasons. #1 cast bullets are significantly cheaper. This only becomes a factor if you shoot a lot. If you go out one or twice a month and shoot 50-100 rounds, the cost savings isn't a factor. But, I have gotten enthused about one shooting sport or another and would fire in excess of 1000 rounds per week. When you are shooting that much, the difference in cost becomes critical. #2 I buy bullets in quantities of no less than 500. I don't see the point in buying boxes of 100. Locally the only bullets I can buy in quantity are cast. In fact my dealer probably only has 500 jacketed bullets in stock. He is a cowboy shooter and buys cast bullets by the truckload. #3 I cast my own bullets. These bullets are almost free. In addition I have given a lot of thought into what weight and style of bullet I want to shoot. I have determined what diameter shoots best in my guns. I then bought that mould. I can produce bullets at any time in exactly the configuration I want. #4 I like to shoot semi-wadcutter bullets because they perform better on game and produce nice round holes in paper targets. #5 I have been shooting cast bullets for 20 years and have always been more than satisfied with their performance, so why switch ?
Snuffy:
I pay $6.99/box of 50 - presuming that no one sells at a loss, yes I'm sure they are glad to see me coming.
Let's see. You save about $.05 per round (assuming your time is worthless and assuming all of that reloading equipment cost nothing and will never wear out). I shoot about 300 rounds per week. So instead of shooting 6 boxes of factory ammo, I could shoot 9 boxes of reloads.
No thanks - for that difference, I'll forego the investment in equipment, I'll forego the depreciation costs, I'll spend my time doing something that pays me more than $3.00 per hour rather than spend it reloading, I'll spend less time cleaning my pistols, and I'll have fewer worries about blowing up a good pistol.
You, of course, should feel free to spend your time as you see fit. You shouldn't feel free to advise people to shoot unjacketed lead reloads in their Glocks (which is where this thread began).
I pay $6.99/box of 50 - presuming that no one sells at a loss, yes I'm sure they are glad to see me coming.
Let's see. You save about $.05 per round (assuming your time is worthless and assuming all of that reloading equipment cost nothing and will never wear out). I shoot about 300 rounds per week. So instead of shooting 6 boxes of factory ammo, I could shoot 9 boxes of reloads.
No thanks - for that difference, I'll forego the investment in equipment, I'll forego the depreciation costs, I'll spend my time doing something that pays me more than $3.00 per hour rather than spend it reloading, I'll spend less time cleaning my pistols, and I'll have fewer worries about blowing up a good pistol.
You, of course, should feel free to spend your time as you see fit. You shouldn't feel free to advise people to shoot unjacketed lead reloads in their Glocks (which is where this thread began).
That is $780 a year if you shoot 300 rounds per week. I would consider that to be pretty significant. I bought a new Bushmaster XM15-E2S yesterday for $800.56. I could get one every year with the savings of just reloading one caliber.
I don't know if you bother, but you could probably make most of that back by saving the brass and selling it. That is 15,600 pieces of brass every year. That much new brass goes for about $1500. If you only got a fourth of that back, it would be well worth it.
I don't know if you bother, but you could probably make most of that back by saving the brass and selling it. That is 15,600 pieces of brass every year. That much new brass goes for about $1500. If you only got a fourth of that back, it would be well worth it.
the duck of death
New member
I put 35M down range last year. I wonder if I saved any $ with my reloads? Oh me oh my!!
Dear Duck and 444:
Not sure of your point, This thread is about shooting unjacketed lead reloads in G-L-O-C-K-S.
My point is that none of the savings that you describe would lead me to shoot lead reloads in my Glocks (or in any other handgun with polygonal barrels).
If you're shooting unjacketed lead reloads in OTHER weapons, more power to you. If you are advocating that people do this with Glocks, you are doing them an incredible disservice.
Not sure of your point, This thread is about shooting unjacketed lead reloads in G-L-O-C-K-S.
My point is that none of the savings that you describe would lead me to shoot lead reloads in my Glocks (or in any other handgun with polygonal barrels).
If you're shooting unjacketed lead reloads in OTHER weapons, more power to you. If you are advocating that people do this with Glocks, you are doing them an incredible disservice.