Savage Stevens

U

UtahGrouse

New member
I was at the gun shop today asking about Savages, and the Stevens specifically. The guy behind the counter was trying to convince me that I should get something else because the take down bolt (bolt holding the stock to the action) had to be torqued perfectly or it would loose its accuracy. Sounded like a bunch of BS to me. Was it?

Thanks
 
Thanks for being so friendly;)

I guess my original question wasn't too clear. What I was being told is that Savages ARE different, and unusually sensitive to torque.
 
There is no torquing of a Savage/Stevens rifle. The barrel is held in by a barrel nut and other than a go & no-go gauge to set headspace a 15 year of child could change out the barrel.

Anyone that tells you otherwise is the idiot.

Jim
 
They're talking about the action bolted to the stock, not the barrel to the receiver.

And I think the one reply started out "idiot" referring to the guy in the store who told you that and not you.
 
The action screws should be tourqed to proper specs on all rifles. It has been proven that tightining or loosening the action screws can shift, move your point of aim and open or even tighten up your groups.
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/71...m-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver

screwdriver.jpg
 
^^^ This. I have that exact wrench. It's cheaper on Amazon. Plus you can use it to see how much you're over-torquing your scope rings. :) For my CZ it was recommended that I start at about 14 in/lbs (not ft/lbs!) and work my way up in 2 in/lb increments. Shoot at least 10 rounds at each setting. A calm (as in not windy) day would be best. Also, when you go to adjust, back the screw out first. These tools are notoriously inaccurate when adjusting the torque by a small amount. In other words, if you're at 14 and want to go up to 16, set the wrench to 16, loosen the screw to be torqued (with another tool) and then use the torque wrench to set the screw to 16. If you just change the wrench to 16 and turn it until it clicks you probably won't actually have the screw at 16 even though it seems like it is. At some point (or in some cases several points) you'll see the groups tighten up. You can try smaller increments at that point. Once you've found the sweet spot make a note of it. You should only have to do the test once. Unless you do some major modifications the same setting should work every time you reassemble the rifle. On my rifle I'm not supposed to exceed 30 in/lbs. Your manual may list a max setting. If you clean and lightly lube the screws first and fittings (a good idea) you will want to use lower settings as more actual force is applied at a given setting over dry screws. I forget the physics on that but it came from a source that I trust. Something about the lubrication making it easier to overcome friction.
 
The Savage/Stevens line of rifles are unusually accurate given the price, it has to do with the way the bolt is made, and many folks are gun snobs who don't want to admit that those rifles are quality products.

I have been very pleased with Savage/Stevens products.
 
Warbird...thank you, that's exactly what i meant....
The "idiot" behind the counter has NO reason to steer you away from a Savage that meets your intended usage.
They are among the most accurate factory rifles produced, AND at an incredible price point. Not to mention fanatastic cs and support after the sale.

As was mentioned, the salesman probably works on commission and would rather sell you a stick for twice as much with half the accuracy.
 
Get the Wheeler torque screwdriver above and the Stevens, spend the difference between what that costs and what he was trying to sell you on ammo. torque the 2 action screws to 35 inch lbs (synthetic stock) and shoot away. The Wheeler is a very handy tool to have on the bench anyway.

So far my Savage model 12 does not seem overly sensitive to the the torque and I have varied it a couple of pounds 1 way or the other with no discernible effect on my groups. My CZ 452's on the other hand are extremely sensitive, I actually tune them with the Wheeler and each has it's favorite settings.
 
I must have a calibrated elbow, I just put it back in the stock with a regular screwdriver. I've never had a problem with loosing accuracy after taking my Stevens rifles out of the stock for cleaning and putting them back together. I snug down the front screw first, then the rear screw, then I check the front again.
 
I have a 200 in .243. Have never done any work on it except to lighten the trigger a bit. I have taken it down more times than I can remember. All I have ever done to re-assemble is stick everything where it is supposed to go, and tighten the screws till they feel right. The gun keeps right on shooting sub 1/2 min. groups, time, after time, after time, after.......
For my money, there is no more accurate firearm than Savage (Stevens) out of the box. If you want to play with them a bit, the atainable accuracy is incredible.
 
I have a 11FHNS Accutrigger & Accustock model. The Accustock models have a recommended torque and tighten pattern (there's three screws on the stock).

The Stevens to my knowledge has no special tricks to tighten the stock.

My father has a Stevens 200 and looking back on it I wish I would have saved the money and bought a Stevens. My dad's rifle is just as accurate as mine, keeping in mind the intended purpose of these rifles I see no real difference in the Accustock or Accutrigger vs. Stevens 200. They both will shoot MOA anytime.

We both have them chambered in .223Rem. In a larger caliber with more recoil, maybe the Accustock is worth it. BTW we have both had our rifles apart and back together with no problems....just saying

Found the Accustock torque instructions:
Savage 11FHNS stock bolts-
1-middle stock
2-under floor plate
3-under bolt release (on rear of trigger guard)
Tighten in order 2,3,1 to approximately 40 inch lbs each.
 
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Don't let anyone tell you they are junk rifles.

I bought the 200 in 300 win mag and love it now. The stock is a little flexable and pretty light for me. i dropped about $50 into mine and it shoots great. I added .25" steel bars to the forstock with epoxy and filled the butstock with bondo to add some weight. Toped off with a rustoleum paintjob. it consistantly shoots .5moa if i can hold it together.

They are ugly for sure but for a budget gun i dont think you can do any better.

As for the action screws giving you problems, i have had no such issue with multiple teardowns.
 
The sevens is a great rifle for the price and there are a slew of aftermarket stocks and barrels you can put on it. As mentioned no gunsmith required to change barrells.
 
Stevens 200

Very good rifle for the $$$$ but 300 WinMag? 6.5lb rifle,Ouch i own a 200 in 25-06 which is great and also own a 300 WM in a heavier rifle(Sako M995) I hope your 200 has a longer barrel and i know why you added the weight. 10 to 15 rds at a local range and the recoil pain starts setting in with a light rifle in the WinMag, very good round to say the least, not quite the Weatherby 300 Mag but cost half as much per box. the Stevens 200 i have been told is basically the old Savage 110. Dont know for sure,but they shoot real,real good for such a cheap rifle,makes a good truck rifle around the3 farm for sure.
 
Thanks for all the replies, that is what I was thinking - I was just being steered toward a rifle that cost twice as much. I think I will go ahead and get the Stevens. :D
 
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