If your 45 is a 1911, just shift your hand down completely below the grip lever. That blocks the trigger, so you can't get inertial trigger pull when the slide slams home. If you have a 1911 with a firing-pin block, that provides even greater assurance (and protects agraist the more unlikely eventuality that the sear will break, or get jiggled off the hammer notch).
Or, you can use a bulls-eye reload: with the slide locked back, pull the trigger all the way aft, AND HOLD IT THERE. While holding the trigger fully back, release the slide (I like to use the "overhand" method), and don't release the trigger until after the slide has slammed home.
I use the first method at home, when loading back up after cleaning, etc, because it has the additional safety of the firing-pin block. At the range, I use the bulls-eye reload method, because in a self defense situation (or when practicing for it), I don't want to shift my grip down and then back up. There, I always insure that the gun is pointed down-range during the chambering.
It's very unlikely to happen with stock triggers, which are all pretty heavy. But with my very light trigger (2-1/3 lb on my 10mm 1911), it can happen. For me, a light trigger is is well worth having to use the above special handling. Of course, it also brings the additional responsibility to never let anyone else shoot my gun without proper supervision and a thorough briefing about the special handling required.
P.S.: I recently DID learn that the reason that Wollf always includes a new firing-pin spring with every recoil spring shipped, is that they believe that as the recoil stiffness is increased, the firing-pin spring stiffness needs to be increased also, to insure that the firing-pin itself can't inertially move forward enough when the slide slams home to ignite the primer.