S&W's Perfect Handgun

Mike Irwin said:
Allegedly the Perfected was brought out at the behest of police and others to prevent the top latch being pulled, either intentionally or accidentally, and opening the gun.

Who knows.
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Similar to the magazine safety which was also a police request related to grappling. The idea was hitting the magazine release turned the pistol into a billy club.
 
But who wants to turn his pistol into a billy club?
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People who don't want to be shot with their own gun, if someone else gets their hands on it.

This is also the argument for having a manual safety on a semi auto. There are documented cases of people (mostly police) losing their gun in a struggle and the bad guy getting it, and trying to shoot them, and failing because the safety was on, and the bad guy didn't know it, or know how to work it.

The downside, to me, of a magazine disconnect is that while it could be used intentionally, it can also disable your gun accidently, without your knowledge, and that's not a good thing.
 
I have a H&R bicycle revolver chambered in 32 S&W (32 short). The 5 shot cylinder and frame are sized to the round. It has a 2" barrel and is handy and SMALL. I think a gun like that with modern lockwork would sell. When I bought it from a local big box retailer, the tag said it was chambered in 32 acp. I looked closely at it to be sure it wasn't fired with the more modern round.
 
OK so I have this beauty in hand but there is a problem.

Right now let's ignore the fact that the extractor cam spring (the smallest spring in the world) shot across my dirty garage and into a black hole never too be seen again.

The bigger problem is the cylinder arbor is pointing down just enough to cause lots of problems. The biggest being it won't close with the cylinder inside the gun.

My choices now seem to be I can leave it in the gun and try to either strike it with a hammer, or tape it up and and smoosh it with some plyers. Or I can try to remove it, it's pinned in, then try some other kind of hitting or bending.

It's essentially a hollow tube so I don't want to go nuts on it. I'd prefer to replace it but there are non on ebay right now.

Any advise from those experienced with gunsmithing?
 
Find a professional gunsmith, one experienced in actual repair of old guns not someone who hangs out a gunsmith shingle because they can assemble ARs, and let them deal with it. PAY what it costs, and if you care about the piece, don't cheap out.

Working on old, obsolete revolvers (in particular, and any gun, in general) where parts are not often available, if they are at all, is not a job for the semi skilled amateur.

Part of what you pay for is that if the smith screws something up he's obligated to fix his mistake at his cost, in terms of both money and labor.

If you're gonna try and "fix" it on your own, you are, entirely, on your own. The best advice is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but you're past that point, already. Next best advice I have is pay a professional, if you aren't one, yourself.

Good Luck!
 
44 AMP said:
Find a professional gunsmith, one experienced in actual repair of old guns not someone who hangs out a gunsmith shingle because they can assemble ARs, and let them deal with it. PAY what it costs, and if you care about the piece, don't cheap out.

Working on old, obsolete revolvers (in particular, and any gun, in general) where parts are not often available, if they are at all, is not a job for the semi skilled amateur.

Part of what you pay for is that if the smith screws something up he's obligated to fix his mistake at his cost, in terms of both money and labor.

If you're gonna try and "fix" it on your own, you are, entirely, on your own. The best advice is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but you're past that point, already. Next best advice I have is pay a professional, if you aren't one, yourself.

Good Luck!
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Wise advice.

In fact, the only advice in this situation.
 
I called several gunsmiths and S&W. No one wants to work on this thing.

I gave the old girl a good beating and it's noticeably better. The cylinder now spins freely and I can get the action to work when fully closed but it's still binding a bit. If I keep the top lock open just a smidge it will work perfectly. A little more work is needed. I may have damaged the top of the frame or the latch a bit as it will now not lock all the way without the cylinder. Maybe I can pound that part back.

I removed the pin keeping the arbor in place but the arbor didn't pull out or screw out easily. I may get some plyers on it and try to twist it later. I might be able to bend it easier with it out of the gun but I would loose my point of reference.

The good news is this gun looks unfired. Probably because it was jacked up from the factory. I can't see how anyone could accidentally bend this thing.

I ordered a random cam assembly from ebay so I can harvest the spring. I'm not sure if the spring in the unknown assembly is the same but it looks close without given any measurements. Worst case I can buy some thin spring steel and try to make my own. It's a very small leaf spring.

The caming action now works good, even without the spring. I took the front end all the way down and removed some fossilized grease that was hard as a rock.

Once I get the gun working I'll take apart the back half. It's an I frame which is similar to a J frame, only smaller and with a few small differences.
 
Lovely old firearm.

I like the design, and have been tempted to pick up one of the Cimarron versions: The #3 Russian in .44 special or #3 Schofield in .38Special.

I am not interested in .45long colt, as I have Ruger Blackhawk for that and don't want to have to track weak vs strong .45LC ammo. I'm also not interested in the .44-40 or .44S&W or .44Russian rounds.

However, they cost a pretty penny.


Just a notice for those who like them, but are interested in something a bit newer.

Of course, these are all single action- but I like that too.
 
I'm sure it would be very hard to make a new one. There are many shapes and thread on the arbor.

I do have good news to report. I was able to fix the original part so I won't have to do a swap.

It was very frustrating to get the last thousands of an inch. I tried using a vise. I tried prying with a punch and using a torch.

I finally got it by hitting it uncomfortably hard with a small hammer. One thou too far and I would have been back in the same problem so I guess I got a little lucky. I've been messing with it a lot and was trying not to over due it.

I'll make another video soon, but I just looked at it with a bore scope and the inside of the barrel is 100% perfect. I'm absolutely sure this hasn't been fired. I've looked down a lot of barrels and this one has no powder residue, no lead, no nothing! I'm grateful that it was preserved so well. Maybe the dumbass who broke it actually did me a favor.
 
The fact that it required substantial force to straighten it tells how ridiculously hard the idiot must have pried on it in the first place. At least you got it and now have a fine looking little shooter.
 
The best way to do this is use something that fits inside the arbor VERY closely but which can be slid in and out to provide both support and as a lever to allow finely placed bending pressure and to support the arbor if hammer impact is used.
 
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