S&W Model 69 Trigger Job?

It is understood that the return spring does not affect primer strike force. It does affect trigger pull weight since it must be compressed in the trigger pull. It also affects rebound speed since that is its function.

I wrote that with a slightly lighter return spring, " I still get reliable strikes and I personally don't go fast enough to over-run it." I did not mean to imply that the lighter spring affected the strike force, but rather that it did not and hence I do indeed still get reliable strikes.
 
I will also comment that light triggers are over-rated. The OP's estimate of 20 lb DA pull is a gross exaggeration. People who have measured the Model 69 published, 3.5 lb SA and 11 lb DA pulls.

The goal of a good trigger job is to smooth the pull. It is not to make it as light as a single-action semi-automatic like a 6-pound 1911. The long ~10 pound DA revolver trigger has very meaningful advantages. But make no mistake, it can be lightened to 8 or 9 pounds without compromising it. Learn to use it and you may prefer it above all others. I do.
 
labnoti-sorry i misunderstood you. My 3.25 in 69 with one step lighter rebound spring is bout 10 lbs. Am guesstimating that as the spring gage is only delineated to 8 lbs, and no idea how accurate it actually is. Did buy another higher rear sight to suit the 180/200 grains load used in it, and widened the notch for personal preference in faster sight acquisition.

FizzyP-can't explain it, but sounds like something definitely wrong and not worth buying that specific gun.
 
I had the Master done to my Model 22, and honestly, the only difference is the strain screw is now tight, when I had turned it out a little, before.
I still need to use Federal primers for 100% ignition.
The chamfered chamber mouths is a nice touch.
 
One of the questions in the OP wasn't answered yet. The main difference between "Master" and "Combat" PC packages is the Combat package includes a glass bead finish. Separately, the PC charges $170 and up for this. That's why the Combat is $100 more than the Master. Since the 69 already has a glass bead finish, it's irrelevant. They won't charge you for it unless you want it redone (like if it was ruined). You don't have to buy a package either. You can simply specify what you want. I've done this and they did not rack up a huge bill. They charged me far less than I was expecting (less than half what I thought it would be).

My personal experience with the PC: It's extremely difficult to communicate with S&W period. However, the gunsmith who actually works on the gun is very intelligent. Don't expect to be able to communicate with them though. They just work on guns somewhere in the center of the Earth. There are phone clerks that talk to customers and they don't have a clue. But the gunsmiths are actually pretty clever. If you absolutlely have to have things your way, even though you don't actually know best, go to an independent smith that will do as you say. If you just want an awesome gun smithed by someone with a little creative license and solid knowledge of what actually works, give the PC a shot. I can assure you they are not ignorant or bumblers. But no, they won't even talk to you on the phone much less listen to all your desires.
 
> The OP's estimate of 20 lb DA pull is a gross exaggeration

I seriously thought the gun might be defective. Making it break in DA tested my grip strength and the effort made my hand shake. I've shot plenty of DA revolvers with pulls over 10 lbs (the usual) and this was an order of magnitude more than that. The SA pull felt like what I expect from a DA pull in weight (obviously without the trigger movement). Maybe the gun was defective? I don't know. The only reason I asked the question here is because it seemed so out of the ordinary it concerned me.

> 3.5 lb SA and 11 lb DA

To compare to some other firearms I have handled, the SA pull was heavier than the DA pull on the new GP100 I mentioned. The DA pull was easily 1.5x the stock S&W 19-4 I have some experience with. Something is off.

Also, it was extremely gritty.
 
It could be, but that wouldn't be characteristic of the 69 or any other S&W. I suggest not purchasing that particular specimen. If you found another one, you might not have to concern yourself with a trigger job at all.
 
Report: I picked up the S&W 69. The trigger is fantastic. Single action is a touch heavy but it's still great. Cylinder lockup is very tight. I love the gun and would encourage anyone who's interested in a compact-ish backpacking or hunting gun to buy one. You won't be disappointed. I'm using it for deer hunting this year in a chest holster. Since I have no interest in "carrying" it, I put the Hogue mono-grip on it and it's honestly a pleasure to shoot full-bore .44 mag out of.
 
No trigger work done. Single action and double action could both be a little lighter, but it's very crisp. I'm content for now.
 
I've had a M69 for several years now, bought it new in April of 2015. Comparing it to the 15 other Smiths I now own and the half dozen I've given away or sold over the years, I've found it to be superbly accurate, light weight revolver.

Its SA trigger is comparable to my other, Pre-lock Smiths in crispness, and maybe....maybe 1/2 lb. heavier. I don't have a trigger gage...(I know what I like and don't need a number to identify it!), but the 69's SA trigger is just fine, needing no tweaking.

The DA trigger is a bit heavy for my taste, though smooth and without any tendency towards 'stacking'. Again, no numbers, but it's good enough that my groups with it, vs. those with a Pre-lock 629 with identical loads, are the same.

For the most part, I carry it with Skelton level .44 special loads of my own making. (950+ fps with a 240 gr LSWC). Since the 69 weighs within an oz. or two of my M19, unloaded, shooting full house .44 Magnum loads is an unpleasant chore. But a 50 round box of those Specials, does not make for a painful range session.

For hunting where only a shot or two is necessary, the heavy magnums are ok, but I practice and daily carry with the aforementioned 'Skelton' loadsm and they've handled all that's been required here on our KY farm to include putting down several aged horses in a final act of mercy. It's no sissy load for sure. The 69's light weight, almost identical to an old K frame without the full lug, makes the gun a natural for all day belt carry where a heavy sixgun load is a requirement.

Lastly, I've found that, while fugly as all get-out, the factory supplied rubber grips are pretty darn good at mitigating heavy recoil and far better than those much beloved "target" grips supplied until just recently.

I think you'll like the 69, Fizzy, it's a very good, well made handgun...and if you're a reloader, I'd suggest making up some of Skeeter's old favorite: any good 240 gr LSWC pushed along by 7.5 gr of Unique in .44 Special brass, or 8.5 gr of Unique in Magnum hulls for about 950 fps from a 4" bbl. Both versions have a long history of use in good guns, with no worries...and will fill the bill where a handgun is of material use. Both are superbly accurate in all of my guns and have been for roughly half a century of use.

Best regards, Rod
 
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No trigger work done. Single action and double action could both be a little lighter, but it's very crisp. I'm content for now.
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Glad you are content, for now. :rolleyes:

I didn't comment earlier, when you were debating getting a trigger job done, or which one, but if I had, my advice would have been to wait, until you actually had the gun in your hands and found out what it actually did.

My next bit of advice would be, after getting the gun, shoot it, often the out of the box trigger pull will change after you get a number of rounds (200? 500 or 1,000? there's no set number, every gun is individual) through the gun.

Maybe not but often the trigger will smooth up some and may even feel lighter as the gun "wears in". A bunch of dry firing can also do that, but I find shooting more fun. :D

A trigger job is always an option, but I don't think it ought to be the first thing done, unless the pull is extremely poor. One pistol I had, after a few years use the DA pull lightened considerably, with no work done to it at all, just normal use.

One shouldn't just an entire model's production based on single example. One pistol I got because the shop had it marked down. They had tried to use it as a range rental and said it was a jamm-o-matic, so they were selling it cheap. Bought it, took it home, fired one mag, and they were right, it jammed a lot. Then, I OILED it, and it ran flawlessly...:D

I think it's best to wait and decide about what, if any work a gun "needs" AFTER you have it in your hands and use it a bit.
 
I've put ~300 rounds through it so far, all hand loads. My dad had a bunch of W231. I loaded up a spectrum. IIRC something like 7-10.5 gr, all with 240 gr SWCs. The light loads like you're describing are really fun. For some reason W231 doesn't like the ultra light loads. You see a lot of unburned powder left behind. Now that I shot all those, I'm going to try some other powders. I have a bunch of blue dot and I'm going to order some H110 for hot hunting loads for this year's hunting season.
 
> I think it's best to wait and decide about what, if any work a gun "needs" AFTER you have it in your hands and use it a bit.

^^ Good point!
 
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