S&W Model 64 or Ruger GP100

I bought my NIB 4" 64-8 as a security guard trade-in nearly three years ago from a local gunstore - $309 OTD. I shot it as a plinker for a year before taking the Ahrends I had put on it off and returned it to it's original state with the Uncle Mike's Combats back in place. Now, my wife loves shooting it with the +P's - it is a great HD revolver - hits POA at 12-15yd with the Remington R38S12 158gr LHPSWC +P's. It is the most natural pointing revolver I have - great balance.

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I should have bought the second one they had! Great gun - even if it is a 'modern S&W hater's' hat-trick - Infernal Lock, MIM hammer & trigger, and two-piece barrel! Yeah, I'd get the 64 - a GP100 just feels clunky...

Stainz, an unashamed modern S&W-lover!
 
Like has been said, if .38s are to be used get the 64 (but I'd get a 3 incher!)

And if magnums, a GP100 (also 3 incher!)

The 4 inch guns are kind of a bit to long for IWB use, especially if you sit down alot.

Deaf
 
I recently seperated with my K-frame in favor of the 3" GP100 and haven't looked back. Sure it weighs a few ounces more, but love the option of testing loads that I'd never dream of in my S&W (it was a 19-3 snub) and the trigger on today's Ruger's are quite good.

Replace the oversized Hogue grips with Uncle Mike's Combats (like Stainz has on his 64) and pack it in Hoffner's IWB and you shouldn't have a problem.

Regards,
Lucky
 
We have an apples and oranges comparison going. The GP100 is going to compair more closely to a S&W686, than it is a M64. Both the GP100 and 686 being made to take a steady diet of 357 magnums.

I have a 64-3 in a 4" HB that I have been working with lately. Shot it in one Defensive Pistol Match so far, and beat my 1911 time by over 2 seconds. I have now done a little polishing and added Wolf springs to it for a slight improvement. Someone had already reworked the factory springs when I got it. The trigger was pretty good to start with on this one.
The 64 HB shoots great, and is very fast and easy to get on target. I think the term points naturally applies to it with Hogue grips anyway. My revolver I shoot the most is a 4" 617 with the same Hogue grips. That might have some impact on how well I shoot the 64 also.

The GP100 is a 357 Magnum, so you will always have access to more power than a M64 in 38 +P. My wifes house gun is a 4" 686, and I keep it loaded with +P 38 Golden Sabers, or Mid Range 125 357's. Full House 357 Magnum loads are a bit much for her. If you are not going to shoot full power 357's the M64 should still get the job done for you about the same.

Out of the box a GP100 trigger can stand some improvement. So can the average M64. Like an M64 nothing a set of Wolf springs and a little polishing cannot take care of. I can work on a Smith & Wesson to get a better trigger at my skill level. To me the GP100 is easier to work on as an amateur gunsmith. The modular parts are not all that bad to work with. Another good point a GP100 has a quick change front sight. It can be Tritium or Fiber Optic with a push of a button, and drop another sight in place. To me this is a big selling point, as I really like Fiber Optic sights in my old age. Tritium also could be a big deal on a house or car gun. Another advantage is reloading a GP100 with speed loaders. The GP100 cylinder is more accessable for speed loaders. (It uses S&W L Frame Speed Loaders)
My brother is left handed, he prefers the cylinder release of a GP100 over a S&W. I am right handed, and either one works ok for me.

What would I get? Good question. I have no problem with either choice. If you are patient on Gun Broker you can probably find an M64 for around $300 to $350 range that is pretty clean. Expect to give $400 to $450 for a used GP100 that is probably in better shape. If you are going for an older near new condition No Lock M64, you can probably buy a near new condition GP100 cheaper. As was said above you can also shop for an older fixed sight GP100, and loose some weight. You also loose the quick change front sight.
Very Clean to near new GP100's are easier to come up with also on the used market from my looking on Gun Broker at both.
 
I bought my NIB 4" 64-8 as a security guard trade-in nearly three years ago from a local gunstore - $309 OTD. I shot it as a plinker for a year before taking the Ahrends I had put on it off and returned it to it's original state with the Uncle Mike's Combats back in place. Now, my wife loves shooting it with the +P's - it is a great HD revolver - hits POA at 12-15yd with the Remington R38S12 158gr LHPSWC +P's. It is the most natural pointing revolver I have - great balance.
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I have the model 10-14 4 inch heavy barrel with the Uncle Mike's Combats I paid $334 brand new from a Surplus store going out of the gun business. Even know the revolver has the interlock I have had no problems firing hundreds of rounds through it. Very accurate with 158gr ammo.

For shooting 38 specials a person can't go wrong with the 64 or 10.

Regards,
Howard
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Ruger

The S&W you're considering has fixed sights? Forget that stuff. That's for carry guns, and you've already got a carry gun.

Get the Ruger and you'll have a fantastic range guns that can handle magnums when you occasionally feel like shooting them.

A S&W rated in 38+P with adjustable sights would be a much better comparison.

S&W tend to have the better DA triggers, out of the box. Would you most be shooting it DA or SA?
 
In keeping with the S&W heritage, my model 65 has been one of my favorite shooters- Mine is 3 " with Crimson Trace grips and is(for me) the perfect home defense firearm...
 
osallent said:
I have a confession to make....a few years ago I had several revolvers, and I sold them all so I could buy semi-auto plastic bricks to be like everyone else. However, I kept one, a S&W 642 Talo Delux model. The fact is that no matter how many plastic bricks I bought, I always felt empty and would go back to my S&W for concealed carry. Yes, the plastic bricks can carry 16+ rounds of 9MM, but they never felt as good as carrying my little snubby.



I managed to borrow a S&W 686 from one of my closest friends in order to fill the void, but after 2 years I feel guilty that I still have his revolver. I know he is a great guy and won't ask me to give him the revolver (like I said, he is a great friend) but I feel guilty about this arrangement, so it's time to buy one of my own and return the revolver to it's rightful owner.



I've sold my "tactical" wonder bricks off, and I am considering buying either a S&W Model 64 (.38+P) or a Ruger GP100 (.357 magnum) with a 4 inch barrel in order to compliment my snubby as my CCW weapon. I know a lot of you guys don't like modern S&W because of the "Hillary (censored):p" but my snubby has one and it has never bothered me. So other than the lock which is not an issue for me, which one would you think would be better for my purpose? Do you have any preference between these two revolvers?



PS: Am not looking to replace my 642, I love that little gun...but it would be nice to have a companion for it....one that isn't on loan from a friend.
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I remember when Ruger came out with the GP100. S&W had the 686 out, and there was a media war between Ruger and S&W on who had the toughest .357. I bought an early model SS 6” GP100 and still have it today.

One shot Ruger took at S&W was that various parts of the frame and barrel were thicker than the 686, therefore stronger. S&W responded with their frames were forged frames, not the “Lost Sand” investment casting Ruger used. One S&W ad had a cut away of both frames, under a microscope. The S&W frame was less porous than the Ruger frame. Both guns, in 6” full lug models essentially weighted the same. S&W contention was that they were stronger with the less porous forged frames.

On my early GP100, I shot often with 2-3 buddies and their 686’s. Their guns always shot tighter groups than my GP did, in my hands or my friends. Their triggers were considerably better as well.

I sent the GP back to Ruger several times. They would recut the forcing cone, check the timing, re crown the barrel. They would send it back with a note, saying the gun was in spec, but they did a few things to it. I was upfront with Ruger, saying that I couldn’t keep up with my buddies 686’s, and they never did charge me..

I bought a 4” S&W 686 a couple of years ago. Great gun. It will still slightly outshoot the Ruger, but the old GP I will keep forever.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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