S&W Model 60 .38 special

That is a nice piece you have there. Where did you find that for $250 and how old is it? I have been looking for a used 60 for about that price, but they are hard to find.

This one is a Pawn Shop special. It is a 1998 gun, I think. The condition was superb. I caught the Pawn Shop proprietor as he was reading the light bill. No kidding. :p
 
Looks can mean little in a revolver look at the following

1. Top strap above where the cylinder stops and barrel starts. Look for any cutting, 38 is not a high pressure round but if there is any cutting of the top strap a lot of +P were probably fired.

2. Make sure the gun is empty (Sorry I had to say that) and cock the hammer fully back. Check the play in the cylinder. It will move (rotate back and forth) a little but very little in a smith. If your not sure then check it against a NEW smith of like calaber or mod.

3. Open the cylinder and look down the throat of the barrel. Excessive marks or leading will tell you things. Lots of rounds.

4. IF at any time the gun shop owner gives you a hard time about 1, 2, or 3 walk away.

Over all the price looks ok, should be a good buy if the above looks and feels good.
 
I bought a 642 on gunbroker today. I should have it next week, I'll post back about how I like my first revolver.

Thanks again to everyone who responded. I don't think the 60 would have been a bad choice, but I think the 642 is a better one (for me).

Cheers.
 
Couple more thoughts /answers for you. Older steel Jframes like your 60 ( and 36's, 49's, etc) weigh in at 19-20 oz. The newJ magnum framed 60's/640/649 are about 23. The alloy frame guns (new/old) are about 15 oz and the new scandums 12. A few ounces does effect how the gun shoots and (IMHO) to a lesser extent, carries (if holstered.). As "don't shoot" said, the heavier steel guns will be MUCH frendlier for recoil when getting to know /practicing with the gun. (Important to me since I like to practice with my carry guns regularly.) I also preffer the durability and finish of the all steel vs alloy guns. Grip area no brainer as they can be replacd for $10if you shop ebay.

Since you asked, I'd personally opt for the used 60 myself. I'm not a big airweight fan. They are commonly reported to have grittier triggers out of the box than steel models. ( The few I tried reciently lived up to the rep too.) I'm also not a big fan of DAo j frames (but do own a 640) . Call me a practical traditionalist I guess :D
In fact, I have and carry 36's,49s, 60's (new and old) and a 640. All are steel comfortable to shoot and carry well in a IWB type holster.

p.s. Just so your on the same page, don't forget to figure tax on the 60 and the $25-$40 FFL fee ( and possable tax) on the 642 for a true comparison.
Enjoy whatever you get &
Keep us posted!
 
Chris-

While you've been posting here, someone has probably bought that M-60 for that excellent price, which is about $75-100 less than I'd expect.

The older, traditional Chief Special fans will be on that like ants on honey.

I think you'd find a J-frame .357 to be a little too much of a good thing.

The M60 with a suffix of -4 or higher is warranted for Plus P use. Before then, Plus P is safe to fire, but may shoot the gun loose sooner than most would like, if much of it is fired. The M60-4 had improved heat treatment, and possibly used improved steel alloys.

Lone Star
 
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M-60

My old M-60 (no dash) round butt, R14___ was my backup for several years. It was an excellent gun and I also carried it for off duty. Our department okay'd carrying a back-up but you had to qualify with it. W qualified with 148gr. target wadcutters and at that time I could shoot a $50 size group at 21 ft. double action. Single action it would shoot $.05 size groups For a 20 oz. handgun they shot great. Since I carried it in a boot holster or with a Hip-Grip I bought an extra hammer and bobbed it. Hope yours shoots as good as mine did.
 
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