S&W Model 60 .38 special

C

ChrisCT

New member
At my local shop there's a stainless Model 60 2" .38 spl. with the old style skinny light wood grips and old stype hammer. Is this hammer configuration preferrable to the new models? It had some type of "Anniversary" emblem engraved in the right side (I forget exactly what it said, I'm going to go back tomorrow.)

It was in the consignment case for $275. I was hoping to get some opinions and information on this gun before I buy. Does this sound like a good price, considering the finish looked to be in very good condition? Anything I should lookout for? This will be my first revolver. Thanks.

It looked like this:
pix2027795234.jpg
 
Looks good to me

It looks good to me. Stainless so there is probably no rust unless it was really abused with something corrosive. Mine has the matte finish instead of shiny, but I love it and keep it loaded all the time. But it is a newer gun. I cannot say if the hammer is different or better. I painted my front sight orange and the rear notch black and I can see that combo pretty good. Hard to predict any problems but check if the dealer will stand behind it if any problems appear. If it is really old maybe a detail strip /clean and relube would be in order. Get out the dust bunnies! Get rid of those grips and get something better to hold onto especially if you want to run a limited number of +P thru it. I would practice with target or standard loads to keep it tight and nice. Desireable backup or concealment gun for sure. Oh, check the usual stuff like excessive cylinder gap, good lockup,
and excessive wear or damage on the ratchets on the extractor.
 
Is there a - in the model. Say M60-11 or not? I find a 2" M10 RB fits my hands better. If you want and can shoot the J frame comfortably, that is a rather low price. I would look it over well.
 
No matter how many rounds have been run through it you really can't go wrong at that price. Unless the frame is stretched or the timing is off, or something like that.

If anything send into Smith and have them tune it up. It's like a 100 bucks. Then your in for 375.00, you can't loose.
 
No matter how many rounds have been run through it you really can't go wrong at that price. Unless the frame is stretched or the timing is off, or something like that.

If anything send into Smith and have them tune it up. It's like a 100 bucks. Then your in for 375.00, you can't loose.
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Are these older models "worth" more than the newer ones. The reason I ask is that I can get a NIB 642 on gunbroker for $326 delivered. What would one expect to pay for the 60 if it was indeed LNIB?

The 60 has a certain appeal to me b/c it's the same model I grew up coveting...it has a vintage feel to it, esp. with those grips.
 
ChrisCT commented, "The 60 has a certain appeal to me b/c it's the same model I grew up coveting...it has a vintage feel to it, esp. with those grips."

You will need at least a grip adaptor. I have a Model 38 and with the stock grips an adaptor was the minium to control it in rapid fire. It now wears a set of Pachmeyers.

For a shooter I suggest a new model with the heavy frame for +P rounds.

Geoff
Who likes the 60.
 
I have an early no dash 60 and a 642. They're both great guns.If you plan to shoot a steady diet of +p's then the 642 would be a better deal. It's lighter than the 60, easier to carry in a pocket and it's made for +p's. If you plan to shoot mostly standard pressure loads then i would grab the 60 in a heart beat. I paid $300.00 for my 60. It had never been fired.

I took the 60 to the 'smith and had an action job done, bobbed the hammer, converted to D/A only, smoothed the trigger and had an orange front sight insert installed. I tried several different grips but finally put a pair of Hogue Goncolo Alves grips on it. it turned a neat gun into a great gun.
 
For a shooter I suggest a new model with the heavy frame for +P rounds.

*********

I have an early no dash 60 and a 642. They're both great guns.If you plan to shoot a steady diet of +p's then the 642 would be a better deal. It's lighter than the 60, easier to carry in a pocket and it's made for +p's. If you plan to shoot mostly standard pressure loads then i would grab the 60 in a heart beat. I paid $300.00 for my 60. It had never been fired.
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So, between the 60 with pictured grips and the 642 with the UM boot grips, which would have more felt recoil. Another reason I was thinking about the 60 is that it's all steel, so I thought that would be better for my wife to shoot with less felt recoil.

Also, what's the significance of "no dash" and how can I determine which one this one is. Lastly, which is "better" to have, the old hammer or the new one? Is the old pointy hammer the part that actually hits the primer, or does it hit the firing pin which hits the primer. Like I said, I'm new to revolvers.

Thanks for all the info guys, this is just what I need before making my decision!
 
The 642, being a lighter gun, will have more felt recoil but with a pair of good grips it's still not hard to control. If it's not going to be a carry gun a set of Hogue mono grips or Pachmayer Compacts will help alot with taming the recoil. The stock 60 factory grips leave alot to be desired in the recoil taming department. The 642 boot grips worked much better for me.

If you open the cylinder and look on the inside of the frame where the crane (the part that supports rhe cylinder) rest against the frame you will see the number 60. if there is no dash with a number (60-1, 60-2 etc.) then it's a first generation gun. Each time S&W makes an improvement to a gun it add a dash with a number.

The older style, like the one pictured, has the firing pin on the hammer. That's the part that actually hits the primer. The newer models have the firing mounted inside the frame. Some people prefer the older style hammer to the new style. It just comes down to personal prefrence.

For some grip options check out these web sites.

www.hogue.com (i have the mono grips on several of my guns)
www.eaglegrips.com
www.badgercustomgrips.com
www.handgungrips.com
www.cdnninvestments.com (i have a pair of the Sile grips on my S&W 36. they work great.)
 
If you open the cylinder and look on the inside of the frame where the crane (the part that supports rhe cylinder) rest against the frame you will see the number 60. if there is no dash with a number (60-1, 60-2 etc.) then it's a first generation gun. Each time S&W makes an improvement to a gun it add a dash with a number.
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Thanks magsnubby. So I assume it's better to have a dash model, with the improvements that come with it, correct? This is going to be a carry gun, so I definitely want to stick with smallish grips.

Lastly, is the 60 rated for +P ammo?
 
I don't belive the older J frames are +p rated. Personally i don't worry to much about shooting +p's in any of my J frames. I usally shoot standard pressure loads and finish up each range session with 3 or 4 cylinders full of +p's. I'm a firm beliver in practicing with the type of ammo you use for self defense. So i figure if the gun gets a little loose down the road i'll just ship it back to S&W for a tuneup.
 
First, be sure to do Jim March's Revolver Checkout on it.

I have a M60-9, which is a .357magnum version. If you are wanting the gun for self defense, you cannot go wrong with a 357. I think I paid around $250 for mine, pictured below.

If you want the gun for a range gun, ie target gun, then you might want to consider a K frame with a 4 or 6 inch barrel.

The .38spl snubbies are great little guns, but they don't have the stopping power of a .357. I can't talk bad about them though, because I own several and I carry one of them. Just make sure you know why you want the gun, and that it will be suitable to fill your needs.

M60-9.jpg
 
XavierBreath:
That is a nice piece you have there. Where did you find that for $250 and how old is it? I have been looking for a used 60 for about that price, but they are hard to find.
 
If you can get and post the dash # and partial serial #, someone here could tell you it's birthday and if i's +P. Many of them were. $275 is a decient/VG price on any 60, especially if it is some sort of aniversery issue. Don't sweat the dash #'s as far as "being better" many of these dashs represent egineering changes for producion reasons vs quality/improvement. I have and carry both the older 60 and a new 357 version. The newer version is beefier but heavier to carry.
 
If you can get and post the dash # and partial serial #, someone here could tell you it's birthday and if i's +P. Many of them were. $275 is a decient/VG price on any 60, especially if it is some sort of aniversery issue. Don't sweat the dash #'s as far as "being better" many of these dashs represent egineering changes for producion reasons vs quality/improvement. I have and carry both the older 60 and a new 357 version. The newer version is beefier but heavier to carry.
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Thanks Tacoma. So you think the 60 is worth getting over a brand new 642 for $35 more?
 
I had one...great gun...but I traded it in for a 442 for the lighter weight since it's my ankle gun....if you only plan to shoot it, get the 60....a bit more pleasant the the aluminum guns....
 
I had one...great gun...but I traded it in for a 442 for the lighter weight since it's my ankle gun....if you only plan to shoot it, get the 60....a bit more pleasant the the aluminum guns....
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This one is for carry, so I may opt for the 642. It's quite a deal on gunbroker at $309+17shipping=$326 to my FFL. Maybe I'll pickup a set of those old school grips just for the hell of it.

Thanks again to all those who responded.
 
I personally like the 340PD, but it will cost you quite a bit more than the 642. I pocket carry a lot so the extra 3 ounces in weight make a big difference to me. If you are going to carry this gun then you might be better off with the 642. Good luck
 
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