S&W J Frame limitations?

Good grips can make a huge difference.
Click to expand...

Those I did change before even taking it to the range. It had some nice, but feminine, pink and purple laminate wood grips, way too small for my hand. I put on a set of Uncle Mike’s grips that increase the width and depth, which helps I’m sure. Now if I can just get over the words “Lady Smith” engraved on the side, it will be all good. :o But hey, it was my Mom’s. I’m sure she’s happy I have it.
 
Also, many shooters do not understand the difference between a triangular and parallel shot error.
With a short barrel and short sight radius, the triangular error becomes extremely critical. Because of this, the groups may become more opened up as the distance increases.

Explanation:
Triangular error is an error in sight alignment.
Parallel error means that sight alignment is perfect or good, but sight picture is off.

Error in sight picture, but good sight alignment means that the margin of error is smaller as the triangle is not as large as the distance increases.

But a sight alignment error is magnified as distance increases.

That is why sight alignment (the mantra of focus on the front sight) is more critical than sight picture. As explained to me one by the top bullseye shooters in the Country, Bob Chow.
 
Last edited:
Not a J frame, but I also have to qualify twice a year with the 2" model 10 that I sometimes carry [plain clothes] also out to 25 yards.

The youngsters do think I'm weird but still want to work with me.
 
Thanks folks for answering the OP's question AND making me feel a whole lot better about my own shooting ability - or lack thereof. I do ok with my full sized semiautos, pretty good with the compacts & subcompacts and 4" barrel revolvers I have.

But the two .38spl snubbies I recently picked up - S&W 642 and Charter Arms Undercover - have humbled me. Those small grips in my big hands, short sight radius, combined with the DA trigger pull do make these a challenge to shoot accurately. I have read for years that the snub nosed revolver is a gun for an expert shooter and now I understand why.
 
Jim,
Ha! I'm trying, I'm trying!! I'll be trying out some better grips on the S&W 642 tomorrow. And each range trip my shots are tightening up - still missing my supposed POA, but I'm scaring it with closer misses at least.
 
Ha! I'm trying, I'm trying!! I'll be trying out some better grips on the S&W 642 tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I started a thread recently that you might want to read over: The search for the perfect grip begins again. J-frame "combat" grip. I ended up with a (used) Uncle Mike's Combat Grip, that isn't quite perfect, but works as well as anything I've tried.

Grip preference is very individual. Hand shape, size, strength and control all vary widely. The stock S&W 642 grips I just don't care for.
 
I carried a couple different J frames for around 3 years and practiced a whole bunch with them. I was pretty proficient with them as I learned to shoot on DA triggers anyway, but I realized I can shoot just about any semi-auto of comparable size just as good or better than the J frame. To be honest I don't feel comfortable using a J frame for anything more than achieving COM shots at close distance, my Shield 9mm which is of comparable size and carries just as easy not only holds 3-4 more rounds but is a whole lot more accurate in my hands.
 
S&W J Frame limitations?

Small revolvers are not that easy to shoot and I agree that they are great for SD at close distances. With that said, I think with practice one can become good with them. I've seen people shoot acceptable groups at 10-15 yards distances.
 
In the years I carried and fired (a lot!) my square butt Model 36, I used it almost entirely in double action. I never used any aftermarket grips or special grips. I found that for best control, having the middle finger all the way up in the grip worked for me. IMHO, the idea that there is a need for some kind of grip filler just isn't true. People will object that the hand will be "bent" and that the index finger will not be parallel to the barrel. So? The gun is a revolver, not an auto pistol and it is best controlled if it is used the way it was made to be used. If filler grips or something like the Tyler filler is used, the grip is not tight enough for good control in recoil.

When I bought a 642, the factory (Hogue?) grip was the worst I have ever tried - no control and the recoil beat the heck out of my hand. I replaced them with the old type wood grips.

Jim
 
My 642 came as a package deal with CT laser grips, so I 've not fired one with factory grips. The CT grips are a bit larger help cushion it, but with an airweight J frame and firing +p ammo, it's going to beat you up a bit. When I broke it in at the range, I think I fired a couple hundred rounds through it and the next day - sore hand! But I love to pocket carry in for SD and if ever needed for that purpose it, I won't be worrying about a sore hand.

That does make it difficult to be really accurate at 25 yards, but with practice you will improve. As has been said, most people use it for SD purposes which would probably be at 7 yards or less and I think it would be very accurate at that range.
 
My 642 Ladysmith has the factory Rosewood grips.

They're uncomfortable and too small.

But... that's nice for concealed carry.

And... No other J-frame that I've fired with any other type of grip has been any more comfortable. Some (like Hogue) force an unnatural grip that just doesn't work for me.

Uncomfortable, but compact....

attachment.php


(Ignore what looks like "crud" caked in the sideplate parting line. It's just the typical case of clear-coat flaking off.)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150626_232524843_800.jpg
    IMG_20150626_232524843_800.jpg
    239 KB · Views: 209
the idea that there is a need for some kind of grip filler just isn't true. People will object that the hand will be "bent" and that the index finger will not be parallel to the barrel. So?
Click to expand...
Try this experiment: Empty the gun and pull the trigger double-action a few times and note the trigger pull. Then slip your index finger of your left hand between the back of the trigger guard and your right hand (to act as a grip filler) and pull the trigger a few times again. Feel the difference in the felt trigger pull? That is why people use a filler like Tyler-T or grips that fill that area. The angle of the trigger pull effects the apparent weight of the double action pull.
 
I don't see any limitations

I shoot this a lot and carry it in an ankle holster or lately in a Bianchi 9R under my left arm.

Accuracy is what it can be. It took me 12 shots to kill 6 1/2 liter water bottles at 25 yards.

This was shot at the club indoor range of 34' using the laser only as the sight.
I liked the original rubber grip that came with it, but I had to have the CT Laser grips.

NCM_0509-XL.jpg


Loving this 637. Its a year or so old, had fired quite a few hundred rounds with zero problems. Most of them +P

NCM_0447-XL.jpg


David
 
Last edited:
As indicated by my name, I shoot and carry 1911s of several sizes as often as possible, but when a small pocket gun is in order, these days it's a 340PD with either Speer 135gr +Ps or the same bullet in .357. This is a difficult JFrame to master as it only weighs 11.4 oz. I feel comfortable hitting a man sized target out to 15 yds consistently, because I practice from point blank to 15yds with a silhouette frequently. I don't attribute this skill to anything other than I have been carrying and shooting JFrames since the 60s with my first purchase being a Model 36, which I still own. That equates to about 50 years of messing with these guns. I learned over the years that a 2-3" JFrame is inherently accurate, but it takes a lot of practice to get good with these guns. By the way in 50 years I have never pulled the trigger when it didn't go bang. Just lucky I guess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top