S&W Classic Revolvers

My recommendation to anyone looking at new vs old, then, is to decide how much you're going to shoot it and/or whether you're wanting something with collector value.

Hmm, I fail to see where how much you shoot your revolver should enter into the equation. I shoot my S&W revolvers made in the 60's and 70's all the time and they hold up just fine. The key factor is whether you want to be able to shoot your revolver, maintain it in the condition it was in when you bought it, and watch it appreciate in value. I bought a 6" S&W Model 25-5 in Near Mint Condition for $500 in 2010. Anyone want to wager what it's worth now? :D

Don
 
Shur,
No need to be idiotic about it.
S&W has merely gone cheaper to sell more product.

Borland,
There are & always have been those who would cheerfully pay more to get more.
The prevailing attitude nowdays seems to be "Better to have ten mediocre guns than five great guns."

Smith COULD have tried to offer a line of top-quality variations for that market segment willing to pay for it.
They don't consider it worth catering to, and that leaves us where we are today.

Majority of the current Smith revolver market is rapidly becoming "Don't Know, Don't Care".

You can't fault those of us who do know & do care.


USSR,
The volume you'll expose your gun to does matter.
Parts wear out & parts break.

In comp guns & other high-volume toys, you bust an older firing pin at 30,000 rounds in, you don't send it to Smith for repairs.
You can't GET Smith parts from Smith.

You buy a new gun, factory support all the way.
That's firing pins, worn barrels, worn out hammers & triggers.

Denis
 
USSR said:
I fail to see where how much you shoot your revolver should enter into the equation. I shoot my S&W revolvers made in the 60's and 70's all the time and they hold up just fine.

Well. there's shooting, then there's shooting. There are folks out there who put lots of hot magnum rounds through their guns. And there are folks out there who shoot 20k/year in fast DA, doing fast & hard reloads every 6-8 rounds. Most would cry if they saw their vintage minty guns go through just one of their practice sessions :(.

My point is that if you want a tool you're going to use hard (not necessarily to abuse), get a new one. If you just want something to work well for general (and tamer) range work, evaluate a used or new one. If you want something that's vintage, collectible and will retain it's value, get a vintage one. But in that case, don't expect to run it hard and expect it to stay that way ;)


shurshot said:
Hey, are you the same guy on youtube with the Diana 52?

eh...no.


DPris said:
Smith COULD have tried to offer a line of top-quality variations for that market segment willing to pay for it.
They don't consider it worth catering to, and that leaves us where we are today.

Seems to me they did consider it worth catering to in the form of Performance Center revolvers, but too few were buying them, so now, PC revolvers are simply revolvers of the same quality but in configurations not available in their standard lineup.

DPris said:
Majority of the current Smith revolver market is rapidly becoming "Don't Know, Don't Care".

You can't fault those of us who do know & do care.

I don't disagree with you Denis, but those who know & do care are a tiny minority and S&W is a large publically-owned company answerable to their shareholders.
 
And there are folks out there who shoot 20k/year in fast DA, doing fast & hard reloads every 6-8 rounds. Most would cry if they saw their vintage minty guns go through just one of their practice sessions

The average guy, and in this thread we are talking about the average casual shooter and not a competition shooter, will take his gun to the range and shoot however many rounds thru it, and never look back. In my case, year after year of range shooting without abuse and, no broken or worn out parts. I would expect nothing less.

Don
 
Denis, have you checked S&W's N frame revolver prices lately? Nothing "cheap" about them. Price and quality are both high, despite what some elitists may state. Some of you guys act like they are importing a bunch of old factory second LLamas and restamping them as Smith's. Perhaps Some guys need to shoot more and complain less. I own both old and new S&W's, both are solid guns... older ones look better, but the newer ones are stronger. Smith stands behind and warrantys their products. I'll put my 29-10 up against any 29-2 out there... Magnum loads too. I guarantee the 29-2 breaks first.
 
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There's no need for anyone to call posters on this site "ignorant" or "idiotic" just because their opinions might differ from your own. There's an old complaint that reflects some people's attitude in general: "Those who think they know everything annoy those of us who do." ;)
 
Thanks for that defensive intervention Dgludwig, but it's ok. Denis was just replying to my sarcastic comment. No offense taken. Just two rusty gun cranks engaged in Socratic Dialectic. No one is triggered or needs a safe space... LOL! We are all men here.
 
USSR said:
The average guy, and in this thread we are talking about the average casual shooter and not a competition shooter, will take his gun to the range and shoot however many rounds thru it, and never look back

We're getting too focused on the "competition" thing.

Whenever these old vs new S&W threads pop up, a picture is painted that suggests the newer guns are total junk. That may not be what's said or intended, but I feel that's what's often read, so I try to inject some balance when I can.

I mention competitive shooters only because they use their guns hard, they universally use new ones, they do well with them, and the guns hold up fine. Ergo, the newer guns aren't total junk.

As I said in my previous post, then, if someone wants something more collectible or vintage, by all means, get an older one. But, if someone wants a shooter, and doesn't really care about vintage or collectibility, I'd think they'd do well with old OR new, so long as they check the gun out before they buy.
 
Guys,
If you'll go back through ALL of my commentary in this thread, and any other thread where I've discussed current Smith quality, you will NOT find a post where I said their guns are junk , nor will you find a post where I said not to buy new.

When the subject of Old Vs New comes up, you WILL see posters who know the difference & do not like the difference.
For those like me, it'll be Old, hands down.

I know what Smith revolvers were, I know what they are.

At ANY price point, we should simply not be getting canted sights, loose sights, over-turned barrels, poorly fitting grips, badly cut crowns, poorly cut cones, badly cut chambers, gaps between steel and wood, and so on.

These ARE quality issues that should not be occurring.
These ARE quality issues that DID not used to happen with such regularity.
Many of us get very tired of having to routinely pay for after-buy gunsmithing to finish what the factory didn't.

My acquaintance with Smiths goes back to 1959.
My father & I both carried 'em in uniform.
I've had enough, and still have enough, Smiths here to compare from various years of production.

Borland,
I'm not arguing with you on the "new" for the hundred-thousand guy.


The PC has gone way downhill, which is sad, but another matter entirely.
I used to talk to people there that knew their stuff (one of whom was the guy who told me the Smith MIMs were not as good as their forged).
Those guys are gone.
Y'oughta hear the words my gunsmith uses to describe the PC.
You're right, basically just different configurations.

As far as the "minority" of which I'm a member goes- as I said most of the Smith revolver market doesn't know & doesn't care.
That does not preclude my minority from expressing an opinion regarding new vs old. :)
And in the current setting, while NOS & 90% samples of vintage classics ARE still available, prospective buyers do still have a choice, IF they want true quality & don't mind making the effort to find it.
In some cases, a better quality used gun can be actually cheaper than a new one.


Again- I paint NO picture of these new Smiths being junk, total or otherwise.
Those who may pull that out of my commentary are inserting verbiage not there.

Shur,
Yes, I have checked prices.
Would you not rather spend another $25 on a new Smith to ensure that they actually took the time to put the barrel on right?
To cut the crown right?

To BUILD IT RIGHT IN THE FIRST PLACE?
I for damn sure would.


Shoot more & complain less?
I shoot for a living.
Anytime I get a new Smith or Ruger in nowdays, I expect to find something wrong with it.
Something the factory should have picked up in manufacture.
Something the factory should not have let out the door.
Something the buyer should not have to pay to get fixed, or return to the maker immediately to get corrected.


What's this about "the new ones are stronger"?
If you're citing the Endurance package on SOME N-Frames as being stronger, that doesn't cover the entire revolver line-up, and I'm not aware of anything else "stronger" aside from the new K-Frame cones, which have been causing problems of their own.

Your 29-10?
I'll put my 29-5, pre-MIM, pre-frame firing pin, up against it any time. Got "The Package", certainly no weaker than your newer model, and I'd bet money the forged parts will outlast your MIM hammer & trigger.

I think you're making an unsupported blanket statement.

Dglud,
I was referring to the STATEMENT as idiotic, not the poster.
The sentiment expressed was idiotic. :)

We could go on for another month or two, but the subject's been well covered.
There HAS been a notable decline, but if you're satisfied with Smith revolvers today, buy 'em.
If you're not, better stuff's still available. :)

Denis
 
DPris said:
]Again- I paint NO picture of these new Smiths being junk, total or otherwise.
Those who may pull that out of my commentary are inserting verbiage not there.

Denis - To be clear, I wasn't saying or implying you were claiming they're junk. I've always appreciated your insight (and agree with you more than you might realize) and that we can discuss it openly. But, as mentioned, those who participate in these new/old threads tend to be very passionate about their views. Often, "junk" never gets mentioned or intentionally implied (well, maybe in the S&W forum :p), but at some point my spidey senses start to tell me the overall picture those who haven't seen S&W's over the decades get - intentioned or not - is that the new stuff is never worth their consideration. In this case, I simply try to offer some balance.

DPris said:
]That does not preclude my minority from expressing an opinion regarding new vs old.

No question. Same goes for me. And, again, I appreciate it and that we're able to do so .

DPris said:
To BUILD IT RIGHT IN THE FIRST PLACE?
I for damn sure would

I would too. My life's priorities have shifted a bit, and I'm barely shooting nowadays. But, if I were shooting as much as I was, a Freedom Arms, Manurhin or Korth would've likely found it's way into my safe by now. I AM, in fact, one of those guys who'd pay extra for quality (If FA offered a DA revolver, I'd be one of the first in line). I just did it again today, and most of the stuff in my closet would express that value as well.
 
Stronger, yes. Not a blanket statement, but fact, as the basic designs have evolved over time in order to address design flaws and weaknesses, hence the subsequent model designations. The "forged vs. MIM" strength debate is an old one. Impossible to prove either way, too many variables. I agree MIM is due to cost cutting measures, but if the guns are stronger (stronger in the opinions of many of us anyhow, or at least AS strong as forged parts in factory durability / quality control testing), and more durable with MIM parts, what's the issue? Personal preference and perception I guess. I also have several old vintage S&W's and they are finely crafted tools. I wouldn't dare subject them to the hot loads I put through my newer Smith's. To each his own. As far as your 29-5 vs. my 29-10 in an endurance test... I have a plastic 5 gallon bucket I'll bring along. When your gun cracks into pieces, I'll loan you the bucket to carry your smoldering broken parts home in. LOL!!!:D
 
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Example. Older S&W 29's used to skip a chamber during heavy recoil. So, Smith cut the bolt notches larger and put in stronger bolt springs which eliminated the skipping. The design change made the gun stronger (or at least improved function and reliability due to "strengthening" of the design). Fact.

In the late 1980s or early 1990s, (1989 perhaps?), S&W introduced CNC machines and the yokes / cranes no longer required hand fitting... end result being that they could be heat treated and hence STRONGER. Fact, not a blanket statement. ;)

But don't just take my word on the subject. John Taffin wrote an excellent article on the 29 and its various designs and improvements, resulting in STRONGER guns over the decades. I hope I can post the link for you within the guidelines, it's from Sixguns.com.
http://www.sixguns.com/range/SmithWesson44Mag.htm
 
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Shur,
As I acknowledged, the 29 HAS been improved in terms of strength with the Endurance Package.
My 29-5 has that package, done prior to MIMs & frame-mounted firing pins and other QC issues becoming more common.

You've mentioned the "stronger" issue without, until now, delineating which models were stronger & how.

Now you bring up an article where John also notes a deterioration in overall quality.
Stronger is only one area, and this refers to only one model.

The endurance package does not apply to all Smith revolvers.
And there are still the associated QC issues I've been stating that I've personally found in several late model Smiths of various models & calibers for years.

Saying "they're stronger now" is not a broad reality, it's pretty much confined to the two areas I acknowledged earlier- the N-Frame Endurance Package where it applies, and the K-Frame forcing cone.

The last K-Frame sample I had here was a comparison between a minty vintage 66 snub & a brand new 66-8 snub, both in .357.

Both spit with a 140-grainer JHP, a known issue in that bullet weight, but the new gun also spit with other rounds badly enough that if I'd kept that sample it would have had to go back to S&W to correct the cone.

In addressing the cone cracking issue of the older K-Frame magnums, S&W had re-engineered the 66 to remove the flat at the bottom of the cone.
Stronger cone wall, yes.

But, there pretty much WAS NO CONE.
To achieve thicker walls, they'd cut almost no forcing cone, creating a tendency to shave bullet material.

The sample I had got me in the hand & the face.
It was a common problem as detailed by other people on the S&W forum who were getting new 66-8s at the same time.
Many had to go right back to S&W for correction.

The vintage sample didn't have that issue with other rounds than the 140.

On the new 66-8 I tested the front lockup, with its ball detent.
I could push the front of the cylinder out of lockup by pushing the cylinder sideways.
On the vintage gun, with its traditional ejector rod lockup, I could not push the rod out of lockup by pushing the cylinder sideways.


New gun is stronger there?
Well...…gain in one area, loss in others.

Denis
 
I won't debate on the K frames, you win that round. I was referring to N frames. I think the new K frames are ugly and as you elaborated on, there appear to be some issues. My vintage 19 Combat Magnum snubby is about what I deem to be perfect in trigger, lockwork, bluing, fit and finish. With a Tyler T grip adapter, it just fits my hand perfectly. :D I carried it to Florida last winter on vacation and was worried the entire time pertaining to scratching it. I also looked at a new K frame last year... I was not impressed. I have owned several Combat Magnums in the past, old ones, and they were indeed built different. That being said, if I had a new one and it was less than acceptable, I would immediately send it back to Smith and have them fix it. That cylinder opening as you describe... that's BS.
 
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To be clear- the cylinder didn't open, the rear cylinder pin lock still held the cylinder shut.
It was just that the front lockup really wasn't a strong lockup at all.
Should not affect function all that much, just noting it in response to your comments about Smiths being stronger today.

I have to be fair to S&W if I worded that poorly.
I could push the cylinder's front end sideways & pop the crane out of lockup at the front.
I could not pop the vintage ejector rod out of its lockup on the other gun.


I gave that 66-8 a fair review, but I returned it to Smith when I was done with it, kept the vintage one & shortly after acquired a new-in-box unfired vintage 66 snub as a spare.
The old stuff is still out there, and it can be worth the hassle to acquire it.
Denis
 
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