S&W 625 break it in or send to smith?

charleym3; that long skinny thing going up and down is the hammer block not a transfer bar. If it is rough, try shooting your gun without it. You don't really did the thing anyway.

Elliot
 
charleym3; that long skinny thing going up and down is the hammer block not a transfer bar. If it is rough, try shooting your gun without it. You don't really did the thing anyway.
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Better check but I think if you take the hammer block out you create the danger of the gun going off if droped, or if the thumb slips off during cocking . I recomend against it strongly, without checking with a profesional first.:eek:
 
I think that I prefer to leave all the original parts in the gun, unless I'm converting a Beretta to a DAO.
The first order of business is to reduce the spring weights and polish the rebound slide.
The accuracy is so good with this that I just have to get the DA pull to the 80% level.
 
Why would I want to do that?
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I don't know. That's just the impression I got. Just like how you wouldn't leave it alone on the thread about Taurus quality and the rate of returns with that company.


I'd think my reason was obvious from further postings in the thread.
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Oneupmanship? Having to get the last word in? Always trying to prove you know more than the guys? Trying to pad your post total?

This post will probably make me unpopular around here. Maybe someone pi$$ed in my cornflakes this morning?

Well, that's okay. I'll just make it all better by putting a little smilie face at the end...:) :p :D
 
I'll take good advice from where ever it comes. I said that I'd never been inside a S&W revolver. It appreciate that someone cautioned me not to wreck it. While I haven't done the work I've seen one stripped down to a tray of parts and put back together again. I paid attention, but it was a long time ago.

I also appreciate getting the experience of others that will save me time and money getting this gun up to it's full potential. I'm willing to listen to everyone whose been here and done this.
 
butchb243: Competitive shooters have been removing the hammer blocks from S&Ws for over 60 years. You would have to drop the gun hard enough to shear the hammer in half for the gun to fire. The hammer is the strongest piece of steel on the S&W. Your finger can slip off the hammer while cocking the gun all you want. As long as the trigger is not back the gun won't fire.

Lot's of people on this board carry Kel-Tecs, older CZs, MAKs, series 70 1911s. All are FAR MORE DANGEROUS if dropped than a S&W without a hammer block.

Elliot
 
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